How to Install Stage 2 Turbo Kit
1.)Gas Cut-off is located on the passenger side panel under the glove box, just press the button and start the car until shut off.
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2.) After When car shut off, because there’s no gas in the line. Now you can start with the installation.
This instructions on how to change the injectors I got them from
http://www.steedafocus.com/edge.htm on how to change the fuel rail, is the same procedure just you are changing the injectors instead.
3.) Disconnect the battery negative terminal. In this install you're dealing with fuel so it is extremely important that you disconnect it.
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4.) Once you have disconnected the battery you can remove the rubber intake tube that goes to your throttle body (above right). This can be done with a flat head screw driver.
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5.) Next remove the throttle linkage cables (above). There are two cables to remove. The cable with the large rubber grommet, simply pull on the grommet forward to pop it out (you don't have to disconnect it, just get the grommet out so you can move it out of the way, behind the throttle body).The second cable you can simply push back on (toward the firewall), to disconnect it and then pull it completely out of the bracket and lay it off to the side
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6.) Next disconnect the fuel injector wire harness. First find the wire clips (located on the valve cover side) and push them in with a flat head screw driver, while pushing in on the clip, lift up on the wire harness. Start on one end and work your way to the other end.
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7.) Now unbolt the two bolts holding the factory fuel rail to the head using an 8mm socket.
Be careful not to drop any bolts! Leave the rail in place for now, the injectors won't fall out.
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8.) Now remove the two 8mm bolts that connect to the passenger side of the fuel rail. If you're careful you don't need to disconnect the wire harness, vacuum line or fuel line. By having the fuel rail disconnected you can move it around a little to get clearance.
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9.) Once you have removed the two bolts, lift up on the fuel rail (passenger side) and pull off the feed line bracket (what you just un-bolted) and
QUICKLY PLUG THE END OF THE FUEL RAIL WITH YOUR FINGER. This will keep fuel from spilling all over your garage floor. Now lift the fuel rail out and dispose the fuel properly. Don't worry if you spill some fuel down the back of the motor, rinse it off with water when you are done, but it could smell for a day or two.
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10.) Now that you have the fuel rail off the car, use a screw driver to pop off the factory clips that hold the injectors. Remove the old injector and just pop back on the new injectors and put the clip back on.
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Now is time for the good stuff
11.) Let's start with taking the front bumper off, There is 8 bolts total + 4 plastic screws + 2 Plastics Clips. Un-plug the side marker lights and the fog lights (If your car has fog lights)
12.) Three bolts on each side under the bumper area (6 bolts size = 10MM)
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13.) Then one on each side fender size = (???) (see picture below)
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14.) Remove the cover from top of the bumper that has 4 plastic screws. After the cover is off now you can take the 2 plastic clips.
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15.) After the cover is remove, then you can remove two plastic clips found under the cover. (see picture below)
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16.) Top picture is on the left side , bottom picture is on the right side.
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17.) Side View
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18.) Start taking off the factory header by taking off 10 bolts, size 13MM.
19.) After you take the factory header bolts off, there’s one bolt that is hard to take off. Drop the cat by loosing 3 bolts (size="15MM") See Picture below.
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20.) After you take the 3 bolts off, there's a bracket holding the cat inplace. There's 2 nuts of size=15mm that holds the cat. (This bracket shown below is ok to eliminate.) Then you will be able to lower the cat a little so you can take that last bolts off from the factory header.
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21.) Now you can completely remove the cat and it will be easier to unbolt the EGR pipe.
22.) Now un-bolt the 2 screws from the EGR, Size=8mm See Below, when adding the EGR block off make sure you take the gasket from the Factory EGR.
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23.) EGR Block off Cover, Size=8mm
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24.)
DO NOT ELIMINATE THIS BRACKET, UNLESS YOU WANT YOUR NEW HEADER TO BREAK.
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25.) Remove and install new oil pan, don’t pry the can from the flat side (don’t need gasket, just use silicone and make sure you clean the old silicone first)
26.) I don’t have picture, this is pretty simple to do... but the socket size=8mm total of 17 bolts. Remember to change the oil filter, the one I use a MotorCraft Model = FL-2005. Part number = F8CZ-6731-AA (See Picture Below)
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27.)
Warning (Don’t put the oil in yet, since you have a fitting in the oil pan, where the turbine will connect the return oil line.
28.) Now you can start by putting the manifold with the turbine attach. I recommend that you attach the turbine to the header before you put the header in. Make sure you tight the manifold good to the block. (See Picture below)
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29.) Now secure the down pipe with the flex pipe and make sure the bracket is in, (Don’t eliminate the bracket, unless you want a broken header) See Picture below , you might have to modify the bracket by cutting the center. Tight the downpipe to the flex first, then tight the bracket part second. Don't tight the downpipe to the bracket first, because it could cause some stress on the downpipe and make the manifold crack.
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30.) If the down pipe don’t align with the bracket or don’t fit, don’t worry just cut the center (Don’t pride the pipe down, because if you do that it will brake the header) See picture below.
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31.) Just cut the center part like picture below.
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32.) Some down pipe have this support that hook-up where the catalytic bracket was. You may have to shim the down pipe to engine tab with washers to make sure you have no bending load in the down pipe. This is only if your tab doesn't flush with the block. In my case i didn't have to put washers. And if the bolt doesn't aling might have to make it a little bigger or use a dremmel to cut until you can insert the bolt without having to force it in.
(see picture below - I'm going to re-take the picture is not clear)
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33.) Install the O2 sensor before you install the waste gate, after the O2 sensor is install now you can install the waste gate, just two screws , and hook up the pipe that routes to the exhaust pipe (if your down pipe is setup this way)
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34.) Remove coil pack, write down the spark plug order, and remove the coil bracket that is attached in three places. Using Torx size = (t30)
35.) Now you can start with the oil line, good place is from below the bracket of the coil pack. To take the coil pack of their 4 Screws Size = and the bracket has 3 bolts size = (T40)
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36.) You have to cut the bracket, and if you are using the MSD coil pack it will fit just fine, but if you use the factory you are going to cut one of the feet of the coil pack.
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37.) Install the return oil hose from the turbine to the fitting in the oil pan.
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38.) Install piping that route to the intercooler.
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39.) Now you can see where exactly the intercooler will lay, so you can drill the holes. (Buy a lot of drill bits and gets sheet metal screws. if not; you are going for a treat).
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40.) You have to loose the two bolts that hole the pipes for the power steering cooler. See picture below. Don’t worry about tightening those back since they are going to be press by the intercooler.
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41.) After intercooler is install, proceed with the Throttle body pipe, and you have to re route the battery cables, and the MAF Sensor cable.
42.) Remove the battery and base, The MAF sensor cable, you will have to remove the black tape, be careful not to cut the wires while doing this. Then you can install the pipe that goes to the intercooler.
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43.) Install the BOV; the vacuum line will connect on the intake manifold.
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44.) Now you can install the pipe from the turbine to the MAF and then pipe to the Air Filter. (If the pipes make the filter come out the fender, you might have to cut the end to make the filter fit inside of the fender.)
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45.) Connect the hose from the turbine charge side to the Waste gate (if you don’t have a boost controller)
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46.) Picture below show you the hose that comes from the charge side of the turbine to the wastegate. (This if you don't have a boost controller, if you do have a boost controller then follow the instructions of the boost controller.)
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47.) Now take the ECU and open it, by un-screwing 6 screws size = (???)
48.) Steeda has good instructions, go to
http://www.steedafocus.com/installs/...stallsChip.htm
49.) Make sure you really, really clean the contacts, if not you might damage the ECU and the computer chip.
50.) Install pyrometer sensor, boost controller, boost gauge, and any other electronics you might have.
51.) After you get the turbo install, make sure you have the return line from the turbine to the oil pan connected and tighten, then insert the oil and un-plug the plug from the coil and crank the motor until there’s oil coming out of the oil feed line, after that then you are ok to tight that back and plug the coil pack cable back.
Now at this point is just <font color="red">Fire up </font> the car and have Fun.
These instructions were made by
<font color="red">PRTurboZX3 </font>
Ford 104 pin out ECU diagram
This diagram is good for hooking up electronics, like the JandS Safeguard or for future projects.
mod edit: added some stuff.