[Oreo]

EDIT: I saw your website & realized you are tryign to fabricate a set of ITB's.

Have you figured out how to tune the OE ECU to handle the MAP sensor? My understanding was that you needed an aftermarket engine management solution for this. (Which will completely eliminate any ability to pass an OBD2 emissions check FYI.)

Beyond that, IMHO, I think you're reinventing the wheel to such an extent that you would be better off just purchasing an off the shelf solution. Sorry man, but a lot of intelligent minds have poured over the available options.

Also, in your blog you mentioned a concern for poor throttle response as the reason for using ITBs instead of the Cosworth manifold. Are you aware of the OE TB's design features that are specifically designed to cause slow tip-in response? Fantastic success can be had by porting out the stock TB. It sounds like you've got the right equipment to handle that.

And finally... Pics please.

Originally Posted by Oreo's original post:

It sounds like you're taking on a very ambitious project. It also sounds like you need to do a lot of research here before you go buying any more parts.

First, you simply can't make any more then about 185whp NA on a stock D2.3 intake manifold. This is well known & documented here. If you're trying to break 200whp, you will also need to upgrade your pistons to 11:1 or 12:1 compression.

Second, the stock duratec TB is about 63mm ID. The aftermarket ones are 65-67mm ID. I like the 2nd plate idea in your Suzuki TB, but 42mm just ain't gonna cut it. And, no offense, but if you had done your research here first, you would have known that... so please, for your own sake, ask questions here FIRST.

Here is a recommended reading list I've compiled just for you. The first link is to all the threads where an old member by the name of Walter Marcy posted. He died, but he pretty much wrote the bible on NA D2.3 modding. http://forums.focaljet.com/search.php?searchid=342880

2.3L 200+whp Salad:

• Cold Air Intake (FocusSport, F2, or a used Cosworth if you can find one)
• Intake manifold (Cosworth is the only option)
• 1-3/4" or larger Header (Talk to our sponsor F2)
• Minimum 2.5" mandrel bent Exhaust
• Stage 2 Cams with valve springs and retainers
• Minimum 11.5:1 compression Pistons and rods (12.5:1 cr is even better)
• Dyno Tune and hardware (SCT's Xcalibrator 2)
• Miscellaneous components (Injectors, BS Delete, Plugs, Oil, Gaskets, etc.)

All told, you're looking at about $4000, plus install labor if you can't do it yourself.

As far as the 2.0L goes, it takes essentially the same parts, but compresion must be 12.5:1, and you'll need to rev the engine an additional 800-900rpm.

In both cases, there is some other hardware that should be considered necessary. You should have a light flywheel, clutch, gears and differential. You should also have an appropriate suspension and brake system that allows you to remain in control of the power.