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Originally Posted by G-forces
Back from the archives.
I'm about to start a rebuild/upgrade. Does the Motorcraft master kit listed above include bushings and bearings? Or is it all gaskets, seals, and pistons (besides the discardable clutch packs)? If no bearings/bushings are included, I'm wondering if anyone can suggest which load bearing items I will be better off to replace while refreshing the rest. And any suggestions regarding the diff? Any special tools I can't do without?
All input will be appreciated.. my mechanical experience has an obvious "ATX hole" in it. That's one reason I'm looking forward to this rebuild/upgrade, aside from the better performance afterward.
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None of the Motorcraft kits or any other kits include bearings or cups. In fact that is not something that is usually in a transmission master kit. Unless you know there is bearing slop, worn cups and bearings, or you are doing the rebuild on a 200K mile transmission; you will be OK without replacing the cups and bearings. When I tore into mine at 100K miles there was very light scoring on the bearings and no slop. I replaced everything else though, including hard parts like the drums and input shaft.
The MTKV-K4600-B master kit is missing a few things I would consider mandatory replacement: fluid pump support
thrust waster XS4Z-7H042-AB, intermediate/ overdrive band (2-4 band) XS4Z-7D034-AB (recommend Alto Red- 133960), direct clutch balance
snap ring XS4Z-7H363-AB.
Rebuilding an automatic can be done in a garage with hand tools, but you will also need some specialty tools and some knowledge. You should get a hold of the complete OTC tool set for the 4F27E, Ford reference manual; and start from there. When I did my first rebuild that reference manual was worth its weight in gold.
Start with cleaning the transaxle spotless before you even open it. A very clean work place is important, use large white towels on you work bench when doing work like valve body assembly. Every part should be thoroughly cleaned and inspected. I used large amounts of simple green for degreasing and cleaning the transaxle before opening it, and a gallon of B-12 carb cleaner for all of the metal internal parts.
One thing to remember is if you have a failed clutch pack you will usually need to replace some "hard parts" like drum assemblies, thrust bearings, pressure plates, retaining rings, etc. This is where a Ford parts dealer (FORDSVTPARTS) can help you find those parts at low cost. Another tip: if any clutch failure occurred, always replace the torque converter as a part of the rebuild process. The torque converter is a large sediment trap and will spread clutch material and contaminate the transaxle fluid. Same goes for the transmission cooler, always replace the cooler if clutch failure occurred; or flushed if rebuilding without failure.
There is too much information and tips for me to write out, I could easily write a few pages on the rebuild process. For me to explain everything about the rebuild would take hours so I will just give a few tips I remember of the top of my head.
-The reference manual does not mention how to remove bonded gaskets off the valve body separator plate. DO NOT USE HEAT OR ABRASIVES TO REMOVE THE BONDED SEPARATOR PLATE GASKET. I found the best way is to soak the separator plate in Permatex gasket remover for 12-24hours and the bonded gasket will peel right off. The plated must not be warped or scored.
-Check the intermediate/overdrive band placement before replacing the end cover assembly. Make sure it is not hanging on the transaxle case.
-Clutch pack retaining rings and intermediate/overdrive band strut are select fit parts.
Check clutch pack clearances.
Clutch Pack clearance:
forward clutch- 1.5-1.8mm
direct clutch- 1.0-1.3mm
reverse clutch- 1.0-1.3mm
low/reverse clutch- 2.2-2.5mm
Measure and order proper rings and strut bolt if necessary.
There is just too much to go through! I will just stick to answering the specific questions from now on. Get the reference manual and study it, you will have far fewer questions.
Here is the tool set I use (OTC TKIT-2000-F/FM/FLM) along with the reference manual.
