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| CFM Focus Performance Parts & Accessories
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#1 |
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Senior TEAM Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Idaho Falls, Idaho
Posts: 1,904
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Would the stage 4 be a good clutch for my sig below?? Also, does it come with a new throw out bearing? Does it use a stock pressure plate or is it modified for a higher clamp load? I'm ready to order and I've got it narrowed to the clutchmaster stage 4 or a unit from clutch net. Thanks for the info in advanced
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ENGINE- Powerworks, OBX Header wrapped, 2.25 SS exhaust, Odyssey 680, Mocal oil cooler, Torsen, 4.06 FD, ClutchNet race clutch, Fidanza SUSPENSION/WHEELS- Custom H&R Coilovers, FS camber plates, Eibach sway bars, Rota Slips w/Toyo RA1's 225-45-15, SVT brakes w/Hawk race pads, ARP studs, Custom wheel spacers EXTERIOR- Euro grills, Deft' CF hood, Sparco hood pins, CF F1 mirrors, CF sunroof delete, Custom front airdam/splitter INTERIOR- Custom spec cage, RS shift knob, FC SS, Corbeau Fx1, Momo Mod78, NRG quick release, Defi gauges, Crow 5point SPONSORS- Troys Engine Mfg., Casper Customs |
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#2 |
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Premier Sponsor
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 51
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The Stage 4 would be great for that setup. It would definately hold the power. The pressure plate is the stock plate which is a major reason for the stock pedal feel but has more than enough clamping power for the power you're putting down.
The CFM Clutchmasters does come with the throwout bearing as well. Let me know if you have any other questions. Heres' the direct link: http://focus.c-f-m.com/index.asp?Pag...S&Category=293 |
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#3 |
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Senior TEAM Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Idaho Falls, Idaho
Posts: 1,904
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I was told I would need more clamp load pressure from the pressure plate. Stock is fine though?? Do they make that disc in a 6 puck??
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ENGINE- Powerworks, OBX Header wrapped, 2.25 SS exhaust, Odyssey 680, Mocal oil cooler, Torsen, 4.06 FD, ClutchNet race clutch, Fidanza SUSPENSION/WHEELS- Custom H&R Coilovers, FS camber plates, Eibach sway bars, Rota Slips w/Toyo RA1's 225-45-15, SVT brakes w/Hawk race pads, ARP studs, Custom wheel spacers EXTERIOR- Euro grills, Deft' CF hood, Sparco hood pins, CF F1 mirrors, CF sunroof delete, Custom front airdam/splitter INTERIOR- Custom spec cage, RS shift knob, FC SS, Corbeau Fx1, Momo Mod78, NRG quick release, Defi gauges, Crow 5point SPONSORS- Troys Engine Mfg., Casper Customs |
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#4 |
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Senior TEAM Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Idaho Falls, Idaho
Posts: 1,904
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Is there another clutch that you would recommend?? I want to get the best for my application.
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ENGINE- Powerworks, OBX Header wrapped, 2.25 SS exhaust, Odyssey 680, Mocal oil cooler, Torsen, 4.06 FD, ClutchNet race clutch, Fidanza SUSPENSION/WHEELS- Custom H&R Coilovers, FS camber plates, Eibach sway bars, Rota Slips w/Toyo RA1's 225-45-15, SVT brakes w/Hawk race pads, ARP studs, Custom wheel spacers EXTERIOR- Euro grills, Deft' CF hood, Sparco hood pins, CF F1 mirrors, CF sunroof delete, Custom front airdam/splitter INTERIOR- Custom spec cage, RS shift knob, FC SS, Corbeau Fx1, Momo Mod78, NRG quick release, Defi gauges, Crow 5point SPONSORS- Troys Engine Mfg., Casper Customs |
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#5 |
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Premier Sponsor
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 51
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Well added clamp load is fine and is a good thing, but is only an issue if the original clamp load is insufficient which is not the case.
If anything, depending on what you're looking, you might want to consider going down a stage. Not because this clutch has to much, but if you get a disc with Kevlar pads, your clutch will last longer, and engagement will be a tad smoother for stop and go type of driving. If you dont ever get stuck in Stop and Go type of driving, then the ceramic pad will do fine. I dont believe the CM comes in a 6 disc, I think the Spec Stg III might have the option of 4 or 6 discs's but William would be able to confirm that for you. One thing I can say, is that the CM Stg IV is one of the best selling clutches among the focus FI crowd, so at least that one has been proven multiple times. Here's a thread that shows just how many FI foci are running the CM Stg IV. Hope this helps. http://forums.focaljet.com/forced-in...ghlight=clutch Last edited by CFM Focus : 02-18-2006 at 07:02 PM. |
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#6 |
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Senior TEAM Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Idaho Falls, Idaho
Posts: 1,904
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Thanks for the info. You are seriously one of the only people that have been truely informative about clutches. From what I read on the link you gave me it looks like several people had a problem with the clutch breaking in. Has that been a problem for you guys?? What is the proper way to break in a clutch, especially this one????
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ENGINE- Powerworks, OBX Header wrapped, 2.25 SS exhaust, Odyssey 680, Mocal oil cooler, Torsen, 4.06 FD, ClutchNet race clutch, Fidanza SUSPENSION/WHEELS- Custom H&R Coilovers, FS camber plates, Eibach sway bars, Rota Slips w/Toyo RA1's 225-45-15, SVT brakes w/Hawk race pads, ARP studs, Custom wheel spacers EXTERIOR- Euro grills, Deft' CF hood, Sparco hood pins, CF F1 mirrors, CF sunroof delete, Custom front airdam/splitter INTERIOR- Custom spec cage, RS shift knob, FC SS, Corbeau Fx1, Momo Mod78, NRG quick release, Defi gauges, Crow 5point SPONSORS- Troys Engine Mfg., Casper Customs |
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#7 |
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Premier Sponsor
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 51
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Well here's the deal.
Ceramic pad clutches are not quite as touchy as kevlar padded clutches. All clutches are suggested to be broken in over a 500 mile period. This is 500 miles of street driving, not highway driving. Kevlar disc's should see about 1000 miles of break-in if not more. Basically just drive the car normally (and by normal I mean smooth engagement and light throttle). 500 miles of street driving with smooth engagement and that should be fine for a ceramic disc clutch. Kevlar is a lot more susceptible to burning the pads ruining them. So break-in is extremely important with a kevlar disc clutch (one of the reasons I personally like ceramic over kevlar) but if broken in correctly, kevlar will definately give you longer life. Hope that helps. |
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#8 |
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Premier Sponsor
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 854
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Clutchmasters can make the clutchmasters stage 4 in a 6 puck if needed. It is usually sold as a 4 puck. We have the 4 puck versions in-stock. If you want the 6 puck version, that is something we can have shipped directly from CM to you. The price would be the same.
__________________
William - Sales Dept / Central Florida Motorsports, Inc. - Since 1996 william@c-f-m.com / Online Customer Service / 407.339.9211 We match ALL advertised prices on products we carry!
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#9 |
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Senior TEAM Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Idaho Falls, Idaho
Posts: 1,904
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Really!! What would be the benifit of a 6 puck over a 4 puck?? I think I'm all set to order from you as soon as I get all the info
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ENGINE- Powerworks, OBX Header wrapped, 2.25 SS exhaust, Odyssey 680, Mocal oil cooler, Torsen, 4.06 FD, ClutchNet race clutch, Fidanza SUSPENSION/WHEELS- Custom H&R Coilovers, FS camber plates, Eibach sway bars, Rota Slips w/Toyo RA1's 225-45-15, SVT brakes w/Hawk race pads, ARP studs, Custom wheel spacers EXTERIOR- Euro grills, Deft' CF hood, Sparco hood pins, CF F1 mirrors, CF sunroof delete, Custom front airdam/splitter INTERIOR- Custom spec cage, RS shift knob, FC SS, Corbeau Fx1, Momo Mod78, NRG quick release, Defi gauges, Crow 5point SPONSORS- Troys Engine Mfg., Casper Customs Last edited by Terrible1 : 02-22-2006 at 10:19 PM. |
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#10 |
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Premier Sponsor
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 51
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The difference between a 4 and 6 puck is engagement.
A 4 puck will have a more agressive initial bite and will be harder to "slip" in. Again for that daily driving scenario, the 6 puck would be more benefitial, but it might not grab quite as well, though I would wager the difference isn't substancial. It might even last longer (though that is never one of the arguments for 6 vs 4 pucks). If this car is more your daily driver, you might want to investigate getting the 6 puck. Hope that helps. |
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#11 |
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Senior TEAM Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Idaho Falls, Idaho
Posts: 1,904
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It is my daily driver but I'm not to concerned on how harsh it is. I mean I don't want to harsh but if its a little quick then thats fine. I think I would rather go with the one that holds the hardest. I want that sucker to not let go!! So the clutchmaster stage 4 (and arp bolts of course) with a fidanza flywheel should wake the car up a little, huh??
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ENGINE- Powerworks, OBX Header wrapped, 2.25 SS exhaust, Odyssey 680, Mocal oil cooler, Torsen, 4.06 FD, ClutchNet race clutch, Fidanza SUSPENSION/WHEELS- Custom H&R Coilovers, FS camber plates, Eibach sway bars, Rota Slips w/Toyo RA1's 225-45-15, SVT brakes w/Hawk race pads, ARP studs, Custom wheel spacers EXTERIOR- Euro grills, Deft' CF hood, Sparco hood pins, CF F1 mirrors, CF sunroof delete, Custom front airdam/splitter INTERIOR- Custom spec cage, RS shift knob, FC SS, Corbeau Fx1, Momo Mod78, NRG quick release, Defi gauges, Crow 5point SPONSORS- Troys Engine Mfg., Casper Customs |
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#12 |
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Premier Sponsor
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 51
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Yea that would do well!
Let me clarify there should be little to no difference once the clutch is engage as to holding power, the 4 puck is just a bit more harsh at engagement. I actually have a 4 puck clutch, I've driven a CM 4 puck on the focus many times, it's totally liveable. Harsh??? Maybe but nothing out of the ordinary, I just wouldn't want it in stop and go traffic. |
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#13 |
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Senior TEAM Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Idaho Falls, Idaho
Posts: 1,904
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If it were your car what would you recommend??? Clutchnet was no help and I've been hearing alot of people that are totally unhappy with clutchmasters.
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ENGINE- Powerworks, OBX Header wrapped, 2.25 SS exhaust, Odyssey 680, Mocal oil cooler, Torsen, 4.06 FD, ClutchNet race clutch, Fidanza SUSPENSION/WHEELS- Custom H&R Coilovers, FS camber plates, Eibach sway bars, Rota Slips w/Toyo RA1's 225-45-15, SVT brakes w/Hawk race pads, ARP studs, Custom wheel spacers EXTERIOR- Euro grills, Deft' CF hood, Sparco hood pins, CF F1 mirrors, CF sunroof delete, Custom front airdam/splitter INTERIOR- Custom spec cage, RS shift knob, FC SS, Corbeau Fx1, Momo Mod78, NRG quick release, Defi gauges, Crow 5point SPONSORS- Troys Engine Mfg., Casper Customs |
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#14 |
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Premier Sponsor
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 51
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My personal recommendation is the Spec. I believe it costs a tad more but I also believe they actually modify their tabs on the pressure plate to get more clamping pressure out of them. (not alot but a little). Like you I have seen some spot issues with Clutchmasters, but I happen to believe that if the focus world had as many spec clutches as CM clutches you'd hear the same stories. I personally think it's more about the ratio of issues to successes and I would bet the ratio is close.
If I were to give you a completely subjective "hey this is the one I like" I'd say go with Spec. Like I said, it's subjective, I dont have any major reason other than a slightly modified pressure plate, but that is my personal preference. Both come with an alignment tool, both are available in 6 puck designs if you choose. But my personal preference is Spec if that matters. Good luck to ya. |
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#15 |
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Senior TEAM Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Idaho Falls, Idaho
Posts: 1,904
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I was looking at the spec website and the stage 3+ looks tempting. Any recommendations on this clutch?? What am I going to loose/gain in going with this type of material?? Price??
__________________
ENGINE- Powerworks, OBX Header wrapped, 2.25 SS exhaust, Odyssey 680, Mocal oil cooler, Torsen, 4.06 FD, ClutchNet race clutch, Fidanza SUSPENSION/WHEELS- Custom H&R Coilovers, FS camber plates, Eibach sway bars, Rota Slips w/Toyo RA1's 225-45-15, SVT brakes w/Hawk race pads, ARP studs, Custom wheel spacers EXTERIOR- Euro grills, Deft' CF hood, Sparco hood pins, CF F1 mirrors, CF sunroof delete, Custom front airdam/splitter INTERIOR- Custom spec cage, RS shift knob, FC SS, Corbeau Fx1, Momo Mod78, NRG quick release, Defi gauges, Crow 5point SPONSORS- Troys Engine Mfg., Casper Customs |
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#16 |
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Premier Sponsor
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 51
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I have to apologize, I recently stated the Spec costs a bit more (because my experience is with the SVT version) I completely forgot you are looking at the MTX75 clutch which is actually cheaper than the clutchmasters.
So I would definately go with the spec over clutchmasters. (Price = 377.95) http://focus.c-f-m.com/index.asp?Pag...ROD&ProdID=395 This clutch is no different (as far as general design) than the clutchmasters Stg IV. It's a 4 puck (6 puck optional) ceramic padded disc. Again, ceramic is not at touchy when it comes to breakin as kevlar padded discs but they also will not last as long as a property broken in kevlar disc. Initial bite is aggressive but not unliveable. It'll take probably a week to get used to the bite, but after the 1st week you should be good to go. Just keep in mind, even though ceramic discs aren't as prone to glazing during break-in, that doesn't make the 500 mile break-in period any less important. |
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#17 |
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Senior TEAM Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Idaho Falls, Idaho
Posts: 1,904
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Do you stock the Spec stage 3 6 puck version or would you have to special order it?? Price?? Would that clutch work will with the fidanza flywheel or any others???
__________________
ENGINE- Powerworks, OBX Header wrapped, 2.25 SS exhaust, Odyssey 680, Mocal oil cooler, Torsen, 4.06 FD, ClutchNet race clutch, Fidanza SUSPENSION/WHEELS- Custom H&R Coilovers, FS camber plates, Eibach sway bars, Rota Slips w/Toyo RA1's 225-45-15, SVT brakes w/Hawk race pads, ARP studs, Custom wheel spacers EXTERIOR- Euro grills, Deft' CF hood, Sparco hood pins, CF F1 mirrors, CF sunroof delete, Custom front airdam/splitter INTERIOR- Custom spec cage, RS shift knob, FC SS, Corbeau Fx1, Momo Mod78, NRG quick release, Defi gauges, Crow 5point SPONSORS- Troys Engine Mfg., Casper Customs |
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#18 | |
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Premier Sponsor
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 854
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Quote:
Yes, The fidanza flyhweel or other flywheels would work.
__________________
William - Sales Dept / Central Florida Motorsports, Inc. - Since 1996 william@c-f-m.com / Online Customer Service / 407.339.9211 We match ALL advertised prices on products we carry!
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#19 |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: I <3 Boost and motorcycles
Posts: 981
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Switching gears a little. What about your recomendations for the boosted SVTs? Nothing too crazy. 300 WHP and 250 WTQ max with a Quaife LSD. I'm leaning towards a CM STG 3 just because I really don't want a 4 or 6 puck clutch. I'm also swayed by the longer life of the full faced designs. Do you think the combination of the Quaife with that sort of power output warrants stepping up to a 4 or 6 puck disc?
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Garret James McIntire 07/25/84 - 04/14/07 -- Rest In Peace brother. `03 Pitch Black SVT 5 Door -- Audiophile, HID, Moonroof, Cold Weather Package, EAP Recaro interior, HID Foglights, Built CGI Block, 9.0:1 C/R, Ported Head, PowerWorks, Custom 16 psi Pulley, Fidanza, CM Stg 3, Quaife LSD, ORP, Borla, SCT ProRacer, ScanGuage II, J&S Safeguard, Snow Meth injection, Volk TE-37s, and a pine scented smelly tree. |
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#20 |
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Premier Sponsor
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 51
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Stage 3 will do fine if your just looking to do some spirited driving. If you have any plans for true abuse (1/4 miles or road racing) then definately move up. But for spirited driving, the Stg 3 will be plenty and should definately be a tad easier than the ceramic disc in daily driven traffic.
Just make sure to allow for the full break-in period. |
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#21 |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: I <3 Boost and motorcycles
Posts: 981
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Hmm well thats not great news. This is my play car not my daily driver. And when I play, I play. I don't drag race but I do autocross and once I move I'm looking into cutting my teeth on some road courses. So maybe a pucked clutch is more up my alley.
One more question for you. Whats your professional opinion on the Spec flywheel VS the Clutchmaster flywheel? I don't care about price. I noticed the Spec is a tad heavier than the CM. Is there anything about either unit that you like more than the other? Thanks Duncan
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Garret James McIntire 07/25/84 - 04/14/07 -- Rest In Peace brother. `03 Pitch Black SVT 5 Door -- Audiophile, HID, Moonroof, Cold Weather Package, EAP Recaro interior, HID Foglights, Built CGI Block, 9.0:1 C/R, Ported Head, PowerWorks, Custom 16 psi Pulley, Fidanza, CM Stg 3, Quaife LSD, ORP, Borla, SCT ProRacer, ScanGuage II, J&S Safeguard, Snow Meth injection, Volk TE-37s, and a pine scented smelly tree. |
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#22 |
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Premier Sponsor
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 51
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If this is going on a car that is a play car with some Autocross and Road Course, you might want to consider the puck design. It will definately grab better, the engagement is somewhat harsh, but it's not something that wouldnt' take about 2 weeks of driving to get used to, even for a daily driver. So sounds like the ceramic disc clutch would definately be better.
As for the flywheel, unfortunately I have no personal experience with either. As a road racer auto-cross your definately going to want to go with the lighter flywheel, the throttle response on heal toe is more than worth it and lift throttle oversteer is accomplished much easier because engine braking is increased with a lighter flywheel. All good things for the type of driving you're doing. As for fit and finish, they are both quality units from what I can tell. Again my only personal experience is with Fidanza, but I'm inclined to believe that it's about the same. I would suggest (from a practicality perspective), that you pick up a flywheel from the same manufacturer that makes your clutch if your buying together. |
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