Duratec FAQ - Take a look in here
Looking for info on:
What could change a Duratec 20 into a 23?
Where the engines are manufactured?
Ford or Mazda design?
How to install the FC UDP kit
Where can I find performance parts for my Duratec?
A list has been compiled of all known performance parts that are availible for the Duratec engine. The majority of the parts are for the 2.3l Duratec, but most should work on the 2.0l version. You can view the list at the top of the Duratec forum, or by clicking here.
What's with that crazy air filter?
The air filter is designed to be a non-serviceable filter for 100,000 miles. The reason for this is that it needs to be for the emissions warranty on the PZEV models which do not allow for any evaporative emissions. There is no paper filter to change, nor is there a drop-in upgrade from K&N or ITG or the like. See the performance and products sticky for more information on upgrading your filter for performance.
What's with all these different Duratecs? I'm confused! <ul type="square"> [*]2003: Duratec 23E PZEV available in green states only and available for ALL model Focus. 144hp @ 5750 / 149tq @ 4200[*]2004: Duratec 23E PZEV standard in green states, optional in all others . Available for ALL model Focus. 144hp @ 5750 / 149tq @ 4200[*]2005: Duratec 20E PZEV (from www.fordvehicles.com - The Duratec 2.0L 20E engine qualifies as a Partial Zero Fuel Evaporative Emissions Vehicle (PZEV) in the Green States, and is standard and required across S, SE, ZXW and SES series in the states of California, Massachusetts, New York, Vermont and Maine and is optional in S, SE, ZXW and SES series in the border states.) 130hp @ 6000 / 129tq @ 4000
Duratec 20 Optional in border states as above, standard in all others, exhaust system lacking PZEV hardware. 136hp @ 6000 / 133tq @ 4500
Duratec 23 Standard in ST edition, this is the 23E without the PZEV exhaust hardware. 151hp @ 5750 / 154tq @ 4250[/list]
What are substitutes for the manufacturer reccomended 5w-20 Motorcraft oil?
Mobil 1 0w-20 synthetic
*help with this list please*
Gasoline! Which is right for my Duratec?
All Duratec engines at the time of this list are designed to run on 87 Octane. Some points about gasoline:
<ul type="square">[*]Using higher octane gasoline will not offer more performance, nor help keep your engine cleaner, and may be potentially harmful to your engine [*]Gasoline differs from state to state, and sometimes even county to county. For example, California's gasoline burns significantly cleaner than other states. [*]It has been noticed that the Duratec engines might be a little particular about gasoline of a lesser quality, so take care as to which brand/location you choose.[/list]
Can't I just swap a Duratec into my Zetec engine bay?
Provided by blueovalbaboon:
While a duratec will swap into a zetec engine bay, you should be prepared for some work. The motor mounts will have to be welded on as they are in a different location from the zetec. The duratec's computer uses a different ECU and an entirely new way of communicating from the old EEC-V. This means that the wiring harness and the ECU will have to be changed.
While the duratec should bolt up relatively easily to the zetec transmissions, I would caution against using a zetec automatic transmission. The duratec ATX, while part of the same family, uses stronger clutches and an improved torque convertor. It is a more heavy duty unit although probably still not too happy with any appreciable amount of performance modification.
What transmission does my Duratec have, and how is it different from the transmission on the Zetec?
Provided by Egz:
The Duratec uses essentially the same MTX-75 manual transmission, except the bell housing is different (stronger and reduced NHV, and possibly different bolt pattern), the final drive is different, with a 3.41 (or 3.42) final drive, compared to the 3.82 of the Zetec. 3.82 and 4.06 swaps should work just fine, and any LSD will work. Also, the stock open differential supposedly has stronger spider gears.
What are some of the physical properties of the Duratec? And how do they differ between versions?
Provided by blueovalbaboon:
In terms of the physical engine itself, all duratecs use the same heads, whether they're the 1.8. the 2.0, or the 2.3.
The blocks themselves are physically identical except that the deck height of the 2.3 block is 11mm (less than 1/2 inch) taller than the 1.8/2.0 block in order to accomodate the extra stroke length. This can be likened to the difference between a 351 Windsor and a 302, both of which also have worn the same heads from the factoy.
All models have the same powdered metal conecting rods with only the crankshaft (and consequently stroke length) differing between them. The American 2.0 has a 10.0:1 compression while the slightly dished pistons of the 2.3 yield 9.7:1 compression.
Because the only physical difference between these engines is the less than .5 inch discrepancy in deck height, it is anticipated that nearly any aftermarket part for one engine will fit the other, this goes for everything from cams to intake and exhaust.
FC UDP installation directions
Before you attempt to install the FC UDP kit, be sure to read the directions and words of warning here. Improper installation can destroy your engine!
Can I make my own custom intake?
Yes you can. It has been done, however the people that did it the *right* way created theirs before any aftermarket CAIs were available. The problem with making your own intake stems from having to integrate the stock MAF (mass air flow sensor). An intake that would do your car any good, would most likely cost more than one you could buy from one of the FJ sponsors or other Focus performance products vendors.
A member recently made his own for $50, see the post HERE
Are there aftermarket MAFs or can I create my own wider MAF?
Provided by Egz:
Not without hacking the ECU. The MAF sensor is calibrated precisly to the diameter of the housing. Since it only can sample a small piece of air, it can calculate how much air is really flowing based on the know dimension of the housing.
If you put the stock MAF in a 3" housing without adjusting the ECU somehow, more air will flow into the engine, but the ECU will only tune based on less air, thus leaning out your mixture. (while some say the engine is rich at some points, you may go dangerously lean in other points)
When I built my CAI, I made my own MAF housing, and I made sure it was the same inner diameter as stock. When the SCT tuner comes out, I plan to get a 76mm MAF sensor from a Mustang, loading its files into the ECU with the SCT program, and stick that into a 3" housing.
How will mods effect SMOG or other emissions tests?
This is a pretty mixed bag, so briefly:
<ul type="square">[*]No exhaust modification that removes or relocates EITHER of the cats is legal (Based on the strictest state, CA)[*]Your visual inspection person may, or may not, pass you on an aftermarket intake without a CARB number (at the time of this writting there were no CARB approved intakes available). By law they are not supposed to pass you if you have modded or replaced the stock intake.[*]An ECU reflash will fail you as well when they plug you into the OBD-II system.[/list]The long and short of it, in today's government controlled world, is that no modification to the engine of the car is legal unless it has been through the CARB certification process. However this is based off of California's strict guidelines, the automakers usually use those when making their cars anyway. If you live in a state that allows you to remove a cat or whatever... then you should check your local laws.
Also, be sure to visit this Smog FAQ, a well written FAQ by YellaPZEV .
What kind of power can I expect stock?
2.3 Manual: 128hp 127ft/lbs of torque
2.3 ATX: From FFW_Racer: My car is a completely stock 2004 ZX3 PZEV with 750 miles on it. The dyno numbers were: 111 hp @ 5600, 117 tq @ 4700 or so. The numbers were with the SAE correction. The torque peak was tough to judge, because of the different techniques we tried to run it through high gear without it downshifting in to 2nd gear.
Info on final drive ratio differences starting with 05'
From Marcy Motorsport: As for the final drive, '05s come with 3.82s again, both the 2.0L and the 2.3L. This is why the ZX4 ST feels like such a beast compared to a Zetec, or even an 03-04 2.3L with the 3.41 final drive. I would simply swap to the 4.06 final with the 2.0L to make up for the difference in torque. It's a 6% increase in torque multipication, alomost making the available torque to the wheels equal to the 2.3L. 2.3L ST owners should keep the 3.82s unless exclusively racing the cars.
Duratec bore and stroke (as it effects displacement) information, originally posted by Walter Marcy of Marcy Motorsport:
Quote:
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The displacement effects from larger bores on this engine are far greater than from changing the stroke. In both examples below, increasing the bore has a huge effect. 87.5mm -> 90mm Bore Effect 2.0L (1996cc) -> 2.1L (2112cc) 2.3L (2261cc) -> 2.4L (2392cc) 87.5mm -> 92mm Bore Effect 2.0L (1996cc) -> 2.2L (2207cc) 2.3L (2261cc) -> 2.5L (2499cc) The biggest benefit to increasing the bore is that it actually improves the effectiveness of our already good cylinder head. This is an area of discussion for another thread, but it has to do with unshrouding the valves which increases flow where the valve is nearthe cylinder wall. While there is physical room for the same crankshafts in the 2.0L and 2.3L blocks, there isn't enough physical deck height for a reasonable rod and piston combination in the 2.0L block with anything past a 90mm stroke, which would be extreme at that. With the 2.3L, anything over 98mm stroke will compromise piston 83mm -> 87mm Stroke Effect (87.5mm Bore) 2.0L (1996cc) -> 2.1L (2092cc) 83mm -> 90mm Stroke Effect (87.5mm Bore) 2.0L (1996cc) -> 2.2L (2165cc) 94mm -> 98mm Stroke Effect (87.5mm Bore) 2.3L(2261cc) -> 2.4L(2357cc) 94mm -> 100mm Stroke Effect (87.5mm Bore) 2.3L(2261cc) -> 2.4L(2405cc) Finally, the effects can be combined to net a wide variety of displacement values. There are only a few that make sense though. The following would be the most logical builds as they can be built at reasonable costs. 2.0L Based 92mm Bore, 83mm Stroke 2.2L(2207cc) 2.3L Based 92mm Bore, 94mm Stroke 2.5L(2499cc) 92mm Bore, 98mm Stroke 2.6L(2606cc) Stroking a 2.0L simply isn't worthwhile. The simple fact is that it is ultimately easier to swap in a 2.3L based build. The cost to swap from a 2.0L to 2.3L is relatively low as engine swaps go. Also, if you are thinking of spending the money to do a build of this nature, the conversion parts to make a 2.0L car into a 2.3L car are only a small expense relative to the rest of the build. Finally, for cheap, almost instant gratification, a 2.0L to 2.3L swap will be the low cost way to go. Buying a complete engine, swapping out the rods and pistons, and simply installing it. |
Re: Project Duratec FAQ
