Duratec FAQ - Take a look in here

[YellowSteel]

*none of the information in this list applies to the Duratec-badged Zetec in the Focus RS which was previously available in Europe only*

Looking for info on:
What could change a Duratec 20 into a 23?
Where the engines are manufactured?
Ford or Mazda design?
How to install the FC UDP kit


Where can I find performance parts for my Duratec?
A list has been compiled of all known performance parts that are availible for the Duratec engine. The majority of the parts are for the 2.3l Duratec, but most should work on the 2.0l version. You can view the list at the top of the Duratec forum, or by clicking here.

What's with that crazy air filter?
The air filter is designed to be a non-serviceable filter for 100,000 miles. The reason for this is that it needs to be for the emissions warranty on the PZEV models which do not allow for any evaporative emissions. There is no paper filter to change, nor is there a drop-in upgrade from K&N or ITG or the like. See the performance and products sticky for more information on upgrading your filter for performance.

What's with all these different Duratecs? I'm confused! <ul type="square"> [*]2003: Duratec 23E PZEV available in green states only and available for ALL model Focus. 144hp @ 5750 / 149tq @ 4200[*]2004: Duratec 23E PZEV standard in green states, optional in all others . Available for ALL model Focus. 144hp @ 5750 / 149tq @ 4200[*]2005: Duratec 20E PZEV (from www.fordvehicles.com - The Duratec 2.0L 20E engine qualifies as a Partial Zero Fuel Evaporative Emissions Vehicle (PZEV) in the Green States, and is standard and required across S, SE, ZXW and SES series in the states of California, Massachusetts, New York, Vermont and Maine and is optional in S, SE, ZXW and SES series in the border states.) 130hp @ 6000 / 129tq @ 4000
Duratec 20 Optional in border states as above, standard in all others, exhaust system lacking PZEV hardware. 136hp @ 6000 / 133tq @ 4500
Duratec 23 Standard in ST edition, this is the 23E without the PZEV exhaust hardware. 151hp @ 5750 / 154tq @ 4250[/list]
What are substitutes for the manufacturer reccomended 5w-20 Motorcraft oil?
Mobil 1 0w-20 synthetic
*help with this list please*

Gasoline! Which is right for my Duratec?
All Duratec engines at the time of this list are designed to run on 87 Octane. Some points about gasoline:
<ul type="square">[*]Using higher octane gasoline will not offer more performance, nor help keep your engine cleaner, and may be potentially harmful to your engine [*]Gasoline differs from state to state, and sometimes even county to county. For example, California's gasoline burns significantly cleaner than other states. [*]It has been noticed that the Duratec engines might be a little particular about gasoline of a lesser quality, so take care as to which brand/location you choose.[/list]
Can't I just swap a Duratec into my Zetec engine bay?
Provided by blueovalbaboon:
While a duratec will swap into a zetec engine bay, you should be prepared for some work. The motor mounts will have to be welded on as they are in a different location from the zetec. The duratec's computer uses a different ECU and an entirely new way of communicating from the old EEC-V. This means that the wiring harness and the ECU will have to be changed.

While the duratec should bolt up relatively easily to the zetec transmissions, I would caution against using a zetec automatic transmission. The duratec ATX, while part of the same family, uses stronger clutches and an improved torque convertor. It is a more heavy duty unit although probably still not too happy with any appreciable amount of performance modification.

What transmission does my Duratec have, and how is it different from the transmission on the Zetec?
Provided by Egz:
The Duratec uses essentially the same MTX-75 manual transmission, except the bell housing is different (stronger and reduced NHV, and possibly different bolt pattern), the final drive is different, with a 3.41 (or 3.42) final drive, compared to the 3.82 of the Zetec. 3.82 and 4.06 swaps should work just fine, and any LSD will work. Also, the stock open differential supposedly has stronger spider gears.

What are some of the physical properties of the Duratec? And how do they differ between versions?
Provided by blueovalbaboon:
In terms of the physical engine itself, all duratecs use the same heads, whether they're the 1.8. the 2.0, or the 2.3.

The blocks themselves are physically identical except that the deck height of the 2.3 block is 11mm (less than 1/2 inch) taller than the 1.8/2.0 block in order to accomodate the extra stroke length. This can be likened to the difference between a 351 Windsor and a 302, both of which also have worn the same heads from the factoy.

All models have the same powdered metal conecting rods with only the crankshaft (and consequently stroke length) differing between them. The American 2.0 has a 10.0:1 compression while the slightly dished pistons of the 2.3 yield 9.7:1 compression.

Because the only physical difference between these engines is the less than .5 inch discrepancy in deck height, it is anticipated that nearly any aftermarket part for one engine will fit the other, this goes for everything from cams to intake and exhaust.

FC UDP installation directions
Before you attempt to install the FC UDP kit, be sure to read the directions and words of warning here. Improper installation can destroy your engine!

Can I make my own custom intake?
Yes you can. It has been done, however the people that did it the *right* way created theirs before any aftermarket CAIs were available. The problem with making your own intake stems from having to integrate the stock MAF (mass air flow sensor). An intake that would do your car any good, would most likely cost more than one you could buy from one of the FJ sponsors or other Focus performance products vendors.

A member recently made his own for $50, see the post HERE

Are there aftermarket MAFs or can I create my own wider MAF?
Provided by Egz:
Not without hacking the ECU. The MAF sensor is calibrated precisly to the diameter of the housing. Since it only can sample a small piece of air, it can calculate how much air is really flowing based on the know dimension of the housing.

If you put the stock MAF in a 3" housing without adjusting the ECU somehow, more air will flow into the engine, but the ECU will only tune based on less air, thus leaning out your mixture. (while some say the engine is rich at some points, you may go dangerously lean in other points)

When I built my CAI, I made my own MAF housing, and I made sure it was the same inner diameter as stock. When the SCT tuner comes out, I plan to get a 76mm MAF sensor from a Mustang, loading its files into the ECU with the SCT program, and stick that into a 3" housing.

How will mods effect SMOG or other emissions tests?
This is a pretty mixed bag, so briefly:

<ul type="square">[*]No exhaust modification that removes or relocates EITHER of the cats is legal (Based on the strictest state, CA)[*]Your visual inspection person may, or may not, pass you on an aftermarket intake without a CARB number (at the time of this writting there were no CARB approved intakes available). By law they are not supposed to pass you if you have modded or replaced the stock intake.[*]An ECU reflash will fail you as well when they plug you into the OBD-II system.[/list]The long and short of it, in today's government controlled world, is that no modification to the engine of the car is legal unless it has been through the CARB certification process. However this is based off of California's strict guidelines, the automakers usually use those when making their cars anyway. If you live in a state that allows you to remove a cat or whatever... then you should check your local laws.

Also, be sure to visit this Smog FAQ, a well written FAQ by YellaPZEV .

What kind of power can I expect stock?
2.3 Manual: 128hp 127ft/lbs of torque
2.3 ATX: From FFW_Racer: My car is a completely stock 2004 ZX3 PZEV with 750 miles on it. The dyno numbers were: 111 hp @ 5600, 117 tq @ 4700 or so. The numbers were with the SAE correction. The torque peak was tough to judge, because of the different techniques we tried to run it through high gear without it downshifting in to 2nd gear.

Info on final drive ratio differences starting with 05'
From Marcy Motorsport: As for the final drive, '05s come with 3.82s again, both the 2.0L and the 2.3L. This is why the ZX4 ST feels like such a beast compared to a Zetec, or even an 03-04 2.3L with the 3.41 final drive. I would simply swap to the 4.06 final with the 2.0L to make up for the difference in torque. It's a 6% increase in torque multipication, alomost making the available torque to the wheels equal to the 2.3L. 2.3L ST owners should keep the 3.82s unless exclusively racing the cars.

Duratec bore and stroke (as it effects displacement) information, originally posted by Walter Marcy of Marcy Motorsport:

The displacement effects from larger bores on this engine are far greater than from changing the stroke. In both examples below, increasing the bore has a huge effect.

87.5mm -&gt; 90mm Bore Effect
2.0L (1996cc) -&gt; 2.1L (2112cc)
2.3L (2261cc) -&gt; 2.4L (2392cc)

87.5mm -&gt; 92mm Bore Effect
2.0L (1996cc) -&gt; 2.2L (2207cc)
2.3L (2261cc) -&gt; 2.5L (2499cc)

The biggest benefit to increasing the bore is that it actually improves the effectiveness of our already good cylinder head. This is an area of discussion for another thread, but it has to do with unshrouding the valves which increases flow where the valve is nearthe cylinder wall.

While there is physical room for the same crankshafts in the 2.0L and 2.3L blocks, there isn't enough physical deck height for a reasonable rod and piston combination in the 2.0L block with anything past a 90mm stroke, which would be extreme at that. With the 2.3L, anything over 98mm stroke will compromise piston

83mm -&gt; 87mm Stroke Effect (87.5mm Bore)
2.0L (1996cc) -&gt; 2.1L (2092cc)

83mm -&gt; 90mm Stroke Effect (87.5mm Bore)
2.0L (1996cc) -&gt; 2.2L (2165cc)

94mm -&gt; 98mm Stroke Effect (87.5mm Bore)
2.3L(2261cc) -&gt; 2.4L(2357cc)

94mm -&gt; 100mm Stroke Effect (87.5mm Bore)
2.3L(2261cc) -&gt; 2.4L(2405cc)

Finally, the effects can be combined to net a wide variety of displacement values. There are only a few that make sense though. The following would be the most logical builds as they can be built at reasonable costs.

2.0L Based
92mm Bore, 83mm Stroke 2.2L(2207cc)

2.3L Based
92mm Bore, 94mm Stroke 2.5L(2499cc)
92mm Bore, 98mm Stroke 2.6L(2606cc)

Stroking a 2.0L simply isn't worthwhile. The simple fact is that it is ultimately easier to swap in a 2.3L based build. The cost to swap from a 2.0L to 2.3L is relatively low as engine swaps go. Also, if you are thinking of spending the money to do a build of this nature, the conversion parts to make a 2.0L car into a 2.3L car are only a small expense relative to the rest of the build.

Finally, for cheap, almost instant gratification, a 2.0L to 2.3L swap will be the low cost way to go. Buying a complete engine, swapping out the rods and pistons, and simply installing it.

[YellowSteel]

_

[blueovalbaboon]

While a duratec will swap into a zetec engine bay, you should be prepared for some work. The motor mounts will have to be welded on as they are in a different location from the zetec. The duratec's computer uses a different ECU and an entirely new way of communicating from the old EEC-V. THis means that the wiring harness and the ECU will have to be changed.

While the duratec should bolt up relatively easily to the zetec transmissions, I would caution against using a zetec automatic transmission. The duratec ATX, while part of the same family, uses stronger clutches and an improved torque convertor. It is a more heavy duty unit although probably still not too happy with any appreciable amount of performance modification.

(dunno about the MTX)

[Egz]

Along the lines of transmissions, the Duratec uses essentially the same MTX-75 manual transmission, except the bell housing is different (stronger and reduced NHV, and possibly different bolt pattern), the final drive is different, with a 3.41 (or 3.42) final drive, compared to the 3.82 of the Zetec. 3.82 and 4.06 swaps should work just fine, and any LSD will work. Also, the stock open differential supposedly has stronger spider gears.

[YellowSteel]

rockin, keep it coming

[blueovalbaboon]

In terms of the physical engine itself, all duratecs use the same heads, whether they're the 1.8. the 2.0, or the 2.3.

The blocks themselves are physically identical except that the deck height of the 2.3 block is 11mm (less than 1/2 inch) taller than the 1.8/2.0 block in order to accomodate the extra stroke length. This can be likened to the difference between a 351 Windsor and a 302, both of which also have worn the same heads from the factoy.

All models have the same powdered metal conecting rods with only the crankshaft (and consequently stroke length) differing between them. The American 2.0 has a 10.0:1 compression while the slightly dished pistons of the 2.3 yield 9.7:1 compression.

Because the only physical difference between these engines is the less than .5 inch discrepancy in deck height, it is anticipated that nearly any aftermarket part for one engine will fit the other, this goes for everything from cams to intake and exhaust.

[YellowSteel]

woh, some serious infoz!

[Z63R]

*none of the information in this list applies to the Duratec in the Focus RS which was previously available in Europe only*

That engine is really a Zetec. Hugh on FordFocusCoswoth/uk told me and I read it somewhere else. It's an iron block.

[blueovalbaboon]

someone wanna thorw in that the mexican 2.0 is running 10.8:1 compression on 87 octane?

[Egz]

From MarcyMotorsport

As for the final drive, '05s come with 3.82s again, both the 2.0L and the 2.3L. This is why the ZX4 ST feels like such a beast compared to a Zetec, or even an 03-04 2.3L with the 3.41 final drive. I would simply swap to the 4.06 final with the 2.0L to make up for the difference in torque. It's a 6% increase in torque multipication, alomost making the available torque to the wheels equal to the 2.3L.

[FR500]

Yes it is a Zetec it is only labeled Duratec RS, some european ones are only renamed still but that is changing.

Current Duratecs (real ones) are rather good (as for european models) Duratec SCi 1.8 makes 130hp and gets better mileage, Duratec Ti-VCT 1.6 makes 115hp, and there are rumors of a 2 Litre SCi Ti-VCT but nothing confirmed. as it is Duratec20 makes 145hp.

[Z63R]

as it is Duratec20 makes 145hp.

U.S. or U.K.?

The North American 2.3 Duratec PZEV '03 &amp; '04 model year makes, gives or develops 145 hp and 149lb/ft.

[CopperFoci]

Is the 10.0:1 compression for the 2.0l the same for 05's?

[blackst]

i run 5-30 castrol syntec in my 05 st. works well

[2020]

As per the question in the original post: ford/mazda design?
I recall reading a few years ago on BlueOvalNews that Mazda was in charge of new glabal four cylinder design, so looks like they get the nod. Also, this is the same engine family for the the current base Ranger pickup, a 2.3L, but in the truck the engine give up some horsepower for a 500rpm lower torque peak. I believe that was the first stateside application of the engine.
Now one question: Anyone know the differences between the Mazda and Ford 2.0L versions? Mazda makes an extra 12 horsepower. My thoughts: camshafts, engine management, does Ford use the variable intake manifold on the 2.0?

[Z63R]

Now one question: Anyone know the differences between the Mazda and Ford 2.0L versions? Mazda makes an extra 12 horsepower. My thoughts: camshafts, engine management, does Ford use the variable intake manifold on the 2.0?

I think Mazda's using a variable intake camshaft.

Welcome to [FJ], btw.

[kingofhearts139]

I just got my '05 ZX3 2.0 and I live in PA, so to the best of my knowledge the engine is a 20 Duratec, and not the 20E. My question is, are there are any differences between intake, exhaust, cam gears, etc. for the 20E, 20, and 23 Duratecs? I'm assuming there would be between the 2.3 and its smaller 2.0 sibling, but what would the differences in emissions controls on the 20 and 20E do? Any help would be appreciated, and if anyone has any suggestions on what to start with, I'm open to suggestions.

[pitchblack23]

Take a look at your service manual, and find where it tells you how to change your air filter (if it does). If it doesn't have anything about an air filter, or if what it tells you to do doesn't make sense with the intake you have, then you have a 20E. On these PZEV intake systems, the filter is non-replaceable. The intake setup will also be unusually bulky and completely sealed, but this would be hard to judge without another D20 to compare to. Good luck!

[focaljet-1]

Duratec bore and stroke (as it effects displacement) information, originally posted by Walter Marcy of Marcy Motorsport:

The displacement effects from larger bores on this engine are far greater than from changing the stroke. In both examples below, increasing the bore has a huge effect.

87.5mm -&gt; 90mm Bore Effect
2.0L (1996cc) -&gt; 2.1L (2112cc)
2.3L (2261cc) -&gt; 2.4L (2392cc)

87.5mm -&gt; 92mm Bore Effect
2.0L (1996cc) -&gt; 2.2L (2207cc)
2.3L (2261cc) -&gt; 2.5L (2499cc)

The biggest benefit to increasing the bore is that it actually improves the effectiveness of our already good cylinder head. This is an area of discussion for another thread, but it has to do with unshrouding the valves which increases flow where the valve is nearthe cylinder wall.

While there is physical room for the same crankshafts in the 2.0L and 2.3L blocks, there isn't enough physical deck height for a reasonable rod and piston combination in the 2.0L block with anything past a 90mm stroke, which would be extreme at that. With the 2.3L, anything over 98mm stroke will compromise piston

83mm -&gt; 87mm Stroke Effect (87.5mm Bore)
2.0L (1996cc) -&gt; 2.1L (2092cc)

83mm -&gt; 90mm Stroke Effect (87.5mm Bore)
2.0L (1996cc) -&gt; 2.2L (2165cc)

94mm -&gt; 98mm Stroke Effect (87.5mm Bore)
2.3L(2261cc) -&gt; 2.4L(2357cc)

94mm -&gt; 100mm Stroke Effect (87.5mm Bore)
2.3L(2261cc) -&gt; 2.4L(2405cc)

Finally, the effects can be combined to net a wide variety of displacement values. There are only a few that make sense though. The following would be the most logical builds as they can be built at reasonable costs.

2.0L Based
92mm Bore, 83mm Stroke 2.2L(2207cc)

2.3L Based
92mm Bore, 94mm Stroke 2.5L(2499cc)
92mm Bore, 98mm Stroke 2.6L(2606cc)

Stroking a 2.0L simply isn't worthwhile. The simple fact is that it is ultimately easier to swap in a 2.3L based build. The cost to swap from a 2.0L to 2.3L is relatively low as engine swaps go. Also, if you are thinking of spending the money to do a build of this nature, the conversion parts to make a 2.0L car into a 2.3L car are only a small expense relative to the rest of the build.

Finally, for cheap, almost instant gratification, a 2.0L to 2.3L swap will be the low cost way to go. Buying a complete engine, swapping out the rods and pistons, and simply installing it.

[Dtec04]

I could not scan my computer with a normal OB2 scanner. This is good info.

Provided by YellaPZEV:
you've got a CAN bus dude...it's a duratec right? It's a new technology that I believe only the factory, Snap-On, and SPX (Genisys) have developed for...you won't be able to communicate with it unless you have a module to interpret the datastream.

essentially, we have cars like the 94-95 mustang...they had the OBD-II plug with an OBD-II computer...we have an OBD-III technology (CAN will be the standard protocol) with the OBD-II computer.

[Nikuk]

Can anyone tell me the VE numbers on the stock Foci D23 head?

Much appreciated

[Z63R]

Can anyone tell me the VE numbers on the stock Foci D23 head?

Much appreciated

Well, the stock head, as cast, will flow enough CFM to develop 220 HP... but I do not know at what valve lifts...

Volumetric Efficiency is a measurement of cylinder fill as a percentage of 100%.

Welcome to [FJ], btw...

[Nikuk]

Yes, yes, that i Know

And thanks for the welcome!

But yeah, I'm looking for someone who's had a stock head on a flow bench.. the search here isn't treating me well.

The head will of course get some porting, if nothing else at least clean up the casting flash. I'd like to get somelarger valves in and a 5-angle grind. Then a custom set'o'cam's.

Then I'll be happy.

Thanks tho,

Nick

[pitchblack23]

I'm fairly certain that Marcy Motorsport has flow-benched a head. The number that comes to mind is somewhere around 300 CFM, but you'll want to double check that with someone who remembers the exact post.

I'm not used to thinking in CFM, but I do know that small V8s will commonly use carburetors that flow around 600 CFM. Half of that seems very good for an engine less than half that size.

You may want to start a new thread, to see if you can get Marcy's input on the flow.

[peanutsparts]

I have 2 questions;

What is the flow rate on the stock 2.3 durtec red injectors?

Are there aftermarket MAFs or can I create my own wider MAF?
Provided by Egz:
Not without hacking the ECU. The MAF sensor is calibrated precisly to the diameter of the housing. Since it only can sample a small piece of air, it can calculate how much air is really flowing based on the know dimension of the housing.

If you put the stock MAF in a 3" housing without adjusting the ECU somehow, more air will flow into the engine, but the ECU will only tune based on less air, thus leaning out your mixture. (while some say the engine is rich at some points, you may go dangerously lean in other points)


I did this on my ZX2, put i installed some 28.57lb/hr injectors from a turbo volvo and now my A/F ratio is pretty even will i be ok till i gte SCT tuning?