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| Duratec Tuning Modifying the new, powerful 2.3L and its little brother the 2.0L. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Middleburg, FL
Posts: 439
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I've decided to take pics and make easy guides as I upgrade and make changes to my car. The pics were taken with my camera phone so they aren't as sharp as can be. This is the first time changing my spark plugs so if anyone has additional advise please comment and I'll adjust the original post as needed.
Engine: Duratec 2.0L Difficulty: Easy Time: < 20 min Plugs Used: Copper Autolite 104's with .055 gap Tools: Socket Wrench, 5/8 deep socket (16mm), 5/16 socket (8mm), 3 to 4 inch socket extension, needle nose pliers (used to pull out spark plugs) ![]() Step 1: Clean off engine area to free it from any loose dirt that could fall into the plug holes (I realized I should have done this after I saw some leaves in the way >.>). Step 2: Using the 5/16 socket remove the screws holding the spark plug boot in place. Also remove the wires that are connected to the boot. ![]() Step 3: Remove the boot by making a twisting motion. Do not rock the boot side to side. ![]() Step 4: Using the 5/8 deep socket and extension loosen the spark plug. Be sure to turn counter-clockwise and do your best to keep the socket steady. At first, use gentle pressure when unscrewing to ensure you don't crack or break the plug (I hear this is bad ![]() Step 5: Use the needle nose pliers to grab hold of the spark plug and remove from the hole. Step 6: Use Anti-Seize on the threads and dielectric grease on the boot so you secure the spark plug nicely. Make a scraping motion across the threads as you gently squeeze the Anti-Seize on the threads. ![]() With Anti-Seize applied: ![]() Finally: Place the spark plug back in the hole and tighten using the 5/8 deep socket. Be sure the plug is nice and snug but don't over tighten. Remember, it's not a bolt or a nut, so you don't want to use too much force and risk cracking or breaking the spark plug. Replace the boot and twist it on for a secure fit. Reconnect the wires and screw it back down. You're Done!
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**WTB: 2.5" Exhaust '06 Black ZX3 SE with SAP ~ Pioneer Premier Speakers & Headunit, F2 CAI, LED lighting,CarDomain.com www.FloridaFocus.org ~ Daytona Beach Meet! March 26-28! Last edited by HEDBNGR; 10-06-2009 at 12:30 AM. Reason: Added MM conversion for Socket Sizes |
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#3 (permalink) |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Middleburg, FL
Posts: 439
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Thanks. I've added the millimeter equivalent (or closest one).
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**WTB: 2.5" Exhaust '06 Black ZX3 SE with SAP ~ Pioneer Premier Speakers & Headunit, F2 CAI, LED lighting,CarDomain.com www.FloridaFocus.org ~ Daytona Beach Meet! March 26-28! |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Senior TEAM Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: San Dimas, CA, USA
Posts: 1,202
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So do I. A little preventive maintenance will pay off the first time you wish you had.
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2009 Focus SES Coupe - Vista Blue "Go ahead, call 911....I'm off duty!" |
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#11 (permalink) |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Toronto
Posts: 101
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Right on thanks..
I changed my plugs for the first time on my 2009.. Put in Autolite 104's. There was actually a lot of grease in the boot still so I didn't grease it that time. But I plan to do it on the next change. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Senior TEAM Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 2,201
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My little trick when changing plugs is to have a little chunk of rubber hose that fits snuggly over the spark plug, instead of the needle nose pliers.
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FloridaFocus.org ☼ [RIP] Garret McIntire [7/84-4/07] •'06 Ford Focus• ┤ZX3 SE...CD Silver/Black...5spd...SVT Suspension...Some DIY Goodies├ •'88 Mitsubishi Starion• ┤SHP...Black/Black...5spd...Stock├ •'88 Plymouth Voyager• ┤Turbo...Silver/Silver...Long Term Project├ |
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#14 (permalink) |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 397
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I good spark plug socket has a rubber insert to grab the spark plug. It also is the right depth and will help keep you from breaking the ceramic.
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03 FSP ZX3 Duratec 2.3 The Just Ducky Racing Car |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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I <3 UC^3
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: CT
Posts: 7,764
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Quote:
I always use dielectric grease as well.
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2001 Twilight Blue ZX3 - Volant Intake, Ported TB, SVT Header, RT High Flow Cat, SVTF Borla Exhaust, Koni's 1985 Nimbus Grey Merkur XR4Ti - Work In Progress Tuned By: Bristol Dyno |
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#17 (permalink) |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Middleburg, FL
Posts: 439
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With the copper autolites I read that a lot of people change them out every 10k miles. The iridiums are supposed to last 100k but aren't as good as a conductor as copper.
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**WTB: 2.5" Exhaust '06 Black ZX3 SE with SAP ~ Pioneer Premier Speakers & Headunit, F2 CAI, LED lighting,CarDomain.com www.FloridaFocus.org ~ Daytona Beach Meet! March 26-28! |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Kristina's Culvert
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 647
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I change my 104's every oil change. They're too cheap not to. I also have a Vato Zone brand plug socket with a rubber insert that has a magnetic cylinder around it so it'll grab the plug somehow no matter what you do. Also, I always get pillow packs of dielectric grease and anti-seize and I use both every single time.
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I brake for straddling... |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Inheritly Sinister
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Tappahannock, VA
Posts: 20,184
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Buy the dielectric grease in the tube. You'll save tons of money over those pillow packs. If you did the 10k copper changes, over 100k, you are looking at $10 in grease, versus a 2.99 tube. Even more savings if you have more than 1 car.
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#20 (permalink) |
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Rookie
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 29
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I think it's also worth mentioning to tighten at least the first few turns of the spark plug by hand. I usually hand tighten with just the spark plug socket and extension until I feel the plug bottom out, then use the ratchet to snug them down. This helps me feel if the threads have any dirt or debris on them and also prevents cross threading.
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2007 Black ZX3 w/SAP - Daily driver turned to project car. 1998 Mustang 'Vert V6 - Project car turned to daily driver. |
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#21 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 64
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Instead of needle nose pliers or a chunk of rubber hose, I just reinsert the rubber boot into the opening and it grabs the plug every time. Cuts down on the items needed for changing the plugs.
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07 Focus ST • Liquid Grey • SAP I • Cosworth CAI • Eibach Pro Kit • Autolite 104's • Gold Rally Wheels "Enlightened statesmen will not always be at the helm." - James Madison, Federalist No. 10 |
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#22 (permalink) |
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Senior TEAM Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 3,120
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lol guys they make a Spark plug socket that has the rubber inside..
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"I was thinking the FS turbo kit but I absolutely have to have a BOV..." |
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#25 (permalink) |
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Senior TEAM Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: NorCal ; Wherever the USAF needs me
Posts: 1,811
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I always use the dielectric grease (on the ceramic and in the boot), but never had a problem with seized plugs. I guess routine changes prevent that.
I try to change my autolite 104's every 10-15k or 2-3 oil changes. The last time i left them in for around 20k and they still looked decent. edit - good write-up btw. You can never have too many how-to's
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USAF Electronic Warfare Motto(s): "Jam Harder, Penetrate Deeper, Dispense Longer" "In God we Trust... All Others we Monitor, Jam or Deceive" Proud owner of former FocusSport/JCM racing Powerworks SVT. |
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