Disable PATS and replace ECU without reprogramming?

[jd_hupp]

For my 2002 Focus LX automatic with 80,000 miles, I replaced my ECU with a used one ($50 at eBay) to troubleshoot a tranny problem, but then I had to pay the dealer almost $300 to copy information out of my old ECU and write it into the replacement. (Though that also included $30 to program a second key.) Then the replacement ECU developed the same problem indication as the old one (a short).

So after I figure out what's causing the short, I'm staring at the prospect of replacing and reprogramming the ECU again.

Once the replacement ECU was installed, the car wouldn't even start until it had been reprogrammed, and I understand that this was due to the PATS.

Can I disable the PATS and use a replacement ECU without reprogramming it? In other words, is the programming only needed to set up the key/PATS info?

[cedwards89]

I was told by Randy at FSW just a few months ago that basically new ecu and having Ford reflash it is the way to go.

If anyone has an answer to get around this please post because im in the same boat with a buddies car.

[COSVT03]

See if they will reflash the new ECU since you already paid to have it done the first time.
This is something a tech can start and walk away from, for both keys AND the ecu.

[FSWerksVP]

You can't disable PATS in the Focus ECU with any kind of aftermarket programming. Many people think this can be done, but it cannot.

[Inkedfireman]

Sorry to threadjack, but I'm in a spot and need some related help.

I had the alternator in my car replaced, drove it for two days with no problems, parked it, came out an hour later and it's dead; no power in any key position. After checking a bunch of stuff (battery fully charged, every fuse in both boxes are good, power to the middle terminal on the ignition key, power to the starter relay, etc), I realized the PATS light is glowing solid red with the key on. Everything I've read says that when PATS has put the clamp down, the light blinks rapidly.

I tried the second key, and the accessories position came to life, but still nothing in run or start. I can't even pull any codes out of the ECU because I still have no power in "run" or "start."

Is my only option to have it towed to a dealer? I have a PWSC, and if my ECU is fried I'm going to have to go back to stock.

Any advice? If it is the ECU, can I get a new/used one, and have it flashed at Ford out of the car?

Thanks, Denny

[Inkedfireman]

Just to finish my post, disconnected the battery completely for 36 hours and it started right up!

[FSWerksVP]

Glad that worked out.