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| Focus on Detailing Tips and Techniques to keep your car looking good. |
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#26 (permalink) | |
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Devil's Advocate. Just to cheese you off.
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: In ur srvrz patchin ur krnlz
Posts: 24,445
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Besides, Detailer spray is cheap and you should always have some laying around anyways. |
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#27 (permalink) | ||
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[FJ] Specialist
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Sparta, TN
Posts: 6,092
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#28 (permalink) | ||
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Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Waterloo/Toronto/GTA, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 10,225
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PS> YOu should have detailing spray around....best thing to have to wipe up bird poop to avoid it eating into your paint. |
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#30 (permalink) | |||
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[FJ] Specialist
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Sparta, TN
Posts: 6,092
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#34 (permalink) |
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Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Columbus,Ohio
Posts: 3
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Go to Zainobros.com it has the whole story on clay bar and the whole process---I personally recommend Zaino as your product to keep your car nice. I have a black SVTF and with Zaino it has a brilliant shine to it.
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#35 (permalink) |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Fairview Heights, Illinois (STL Metro)
Posts: 339
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I'll keep this post going! haha. OK anyway, I claybarred my Screaming Yellow SVT today and all I can say is this stuff rocks! After just 'barring it, it looks soooo clean, after a coat of polish it's more reflective than I ever thought yellow could be. It's a must have for anyone who halfway cares about how their car looks
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#36 (permalink) |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: NY
Posts: 233
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Unless you have a steady stream of water going to where you're claying, it's not really a good idea to use. What i found (as some others may attest to), is that the clay can get a bit "grabby" when it hits a portion that has no water. There have been times when I used water in a spry bottle with the clay, and after I was done treating the area, I had to wipe and rewipe to remove the clay residue off the paint. Another thing to worry about is the fact that hardness of tthe water can have an effect on how well the clay can do it's job. If the water is too hard, it can help load up the clay quickly requiring you to remold more often.
The primary advantage to using a dedicated quick detail is lubricity (of course), and the ability to wipe off the access liquid to give the car a good shine without having to rinse the treated area. What i find that works for me in absence of quick detail is to use a small capful of car shampoo mixed with water, or a small amount of Woolite mixed with water. |
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#37 (permalink) |
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[FJ] Specialist
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Southeast
Posts: 5,416
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Used the claybar this weekend. Had a family photo shoot.
I used megiur's. I was pretty suprised at how easy it was to use. With my car being a little more then a year old, Iwas suprised to see how much junk was in the paint. After the claybar, i used the megiur's 3 step cleaner/polish/wax. Car turned out beatiful. I was very impressed with the look of my black car. My.01 |
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#38 (permalink) |
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Senior TEAM Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Alabama
Posts: 1,439
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I claybarred mine for the first time last night. First, I washed it with Mr. Clean Auto Dry, then claybarred, then Meguires NXT Wax. I used the Mother's Claybar and it worked great! I wanted the Meguires claybar, but no one around here carries it.
But yeah, the claybar helped out soooo much and the car looks great!
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#39 (permalink) |
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Senior TEAM Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Repostville...
Posts: 3,678
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Parked my car by sprinklers and had huge waterspots...claybar took most of them out. I used water for lube beacuse the water was from what was left over from the Mr. Clean crap so it had a filter on it.
I used the spray detail the first time and it left all kinds of residue on my car. Had to scrub it extra hard to get it out after the claybar. |
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#40 (permalink) |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 205
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Hey, I ran across a really cool article awhile back. It should help yall out. It's got detailed directions. Plus the model has a SMOKIN body!
http://www.bettercarcare.com/articles.php?articleId=14 I acually recently purchased a kit from a company called Pinnacle. http://www.pinnaclewax.com/pipoplkit.html It looks like a GREAT BUY! I'll be doing my Foci next weekend hopefully. I hope the links help. Thats my part for all the Awsome Help yall have been to me with my Foci. Thanks again! |
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#43 (permalink) |
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Your friendly neighborhood douche pickle
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: s a n a n t o n i o
Posts: 8,560
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[quote
I've always heard that dish soap is really bad for cars too, so I don't think I could bring myself to try it. What else can you use to strip off the wax? Also, I live/work near a Foundry. They put off these little orange particles in the air that settle on the car. So my white car has tiny rust looking spots EVERYWHERE on it. The claybar isn't working the best for me- but I've seen it done on my car at the dealership and it works fine for them. What am I doing wrong?? [/QUOTE] that would be rail dust i believe..... make sure you use a good lube on the surface! I use meguiars final inspection as lube....works good....and it don't hurt to use some elbow grease..if ya know what i mean....push down and let the clay pick up the contamination! |
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#44 (permalink) |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 205
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If you want to strip your car down to the clearcoat to prep for waxing do the following. This method is tried and true for me.
Get yourself a good quality wash mit. (100% Lambswool) I bought mine from autopia. Next have two buckets, one for wash and one for rinse. Use Dawn Dish Soap, it's a degreaser and will help remove old wax. Get a clay bar and some lube, I suggest something Mothers. Reason for that, is that it's a good clay bar. It's actually the same exact clay bar that Zaino uses, they just charge you more. After you clay the entire surface take a good quality Micro-Fiber Towel and pour some rubbing alcohol over it. Use that towel and then lightly go over your paint with it. It will remove any clay residue left behind and any wax and pollutants you missed while claying. The Rubbing Alcohol method is perfectly safe. It was suggested to me by a friend who does all the painting at a local Ford Dealership. Once your all done with that, then your ready to start polishing and waxing. I recommend Blackfire Products to everyone. Their polish and sealant is awsome! If you want to make it easier on yourself go out and get a Porter Cable DAP. Here is a link to Autotrader where my car is up for sale. I don't think i'm actually going to sell it, changed my mind. But here is a picture of my hood after I did the above method. You be the judge. (Photos taken with a 35mm camera, so the quality isn't all that good.) Pics of my car |
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#45 (permalink) | |
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[FJ] Specialist
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Neenah, Wisconsin
Posts: 7,249
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Quote:
that would be rail dust i believe..... make sure you use a good lube on the surface! I use meguiars final inspection as lube....works good....and it don't hurt to use some elbow grease..if ya know what i mean....push down and let the clay pick up the contamination! [/QUOTE] What is Meguiars final inspection? Is that something else than what comes in the box with the clay bar? I did did part of my car last weekend (I did say I wasn't the most patient person.. didn't I? ). I spent a good 2 hours on one side of my car and it looked damned perfect!3 days later... well... not anymore. The side that I clayed is still tremendously cleaner and smoother than the other side.. but those dreaded spots are back already. What is a really good wax to use? I think I just used Meguiars cleaner wax.
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#47 (permalink) |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 205
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If your looking for a good store bought inexpensive sealant, go with Meguires NXT. You can do 2-3 coats of that. I personally would order Blackfire or Sonus. I don't like the cheap store bought stuff, then again, I detail my cars for fun.
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#48 (permalink) | |
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[FJ] Specialist
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Southeast
Posts: 5,416
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#49 (permalink) | |
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[FJ] Specialist
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Neenah, Wisconsin
Posts: 7,249
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#50 (permalink) |
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Official [FJ] Distinguished Advisor
Join Date: May 2004
Location: El Lay Ca
Posts: 22,829
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CD Silver ZX3, built April '03; purchased new July '03.
Waxed three times, last time 6 mos. ago. Washed every ten days or once a week, depending. I parked for an entire 20 hr. period in an industrial area near train tracks. Orange freckles (rust) all over my paint. That was two weeks ago. Washed twice since then; spots still there. I remembered I had a claybar that I used once on my old '63 Ford (before it was hit). I checked it out; it was sealed and appeared to be moist, fresh and clean. I used Meguire's spray Detailer with the claybar and though it took some time and patience, the paint looks brand new (except for the normal, barely perceptable fine scratches that other people say they can't see). No more rust spots or any other contamination; I saw it come off the paint and onto the clay! It looks great! THANK YOU [FJ]focaljet Detail Crew!
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