How to: JRSC pulley install

[Bmorezx3]

http://tiger.towson.edu/~nander2/jrpulley.htm

Finished my write-up for anyone who might be doing a pulley install in the near future.

Nate

[snobrdrdans_sedan]

Nice writeup!!

Me & shadowzx3 were gonna put the FRPP upgrade kit on his car, and this would've been handy, but now Ford Racing is gonna put it on.

Should make this a sticky though...very informative!

[Ray]

added to the sticky. thanks for the work.

[CrazyWella]

Nate, is that oil in the bottom of your intake manifold??

[Bmorezx3]

Nate, is that oil in the bottom of your intake manifold??

Yes, it's a lot less than it looks. I am going to put a catch can between my intake manifold and PCV, the car is blowing a little oil in the manifold.

Nate

[LoCoZetec]

I will say this again.....you do not need a pulley puller.

[Bmorezx3]

I will say this again.....you do not need a pulley puller.

I did.

I'm no small guy and I couldn't pull it off without one. I tried just yanking it off, but it wouldn't budge. Gear puller + impact gun = off in about 3 seconds.

Nate

[LoCoZetec]

I pulled mine off with some effort...but in no way hard to do.

[natedog_1959]

Bmorezx3, you are not as big of a moron as your message led me to believe. (is that better?) You should never hit/tap the end of a supercharger with a hammer. I don't care if it is a rubber mallet. You probably brinneled the hell out of the front cover bearings shortening their life considerably. What you should have done was found a bolt that fit into the end of the input shaft and then removed the bolt from the pulley puller and used your pulley puller in the opposite direction to push the pulley onto the shaft. Just my two cents. Nate.

[OJEngineeringSr]

http://tiger.towson.edu/~nander2/jrpulley.htm

Finished my write-up for anyone who might be doing a pulley install in the near future.

Nate

Nate,

Your write up is good but some of the facts are incorrect. First, there are two brackets available. Early and late. Early was originally for Zetec of course. The late was for the SVT. BOTH were drilled for the tensioner mount. You stated in your write up that there was no provision for the tensioner mounting bolts on the "wrong" (late SVT) bracket. This is not true. Either bracket will work. Here is how it shapes up.

IF you have the early bracket with the mounting bolts at 10 oclock and 4 oclock position, like seen in the JR illustrations on your write up, you route the belt just as the illustration on the JR website states for Zetec.

IF you have the late bracket with the mounting holes at 9 oclock and 3 oclock (as seen in the photograph, being held in someones hand)you route the belt just as the illustration shows on the JR website (same as the routing you have drawn in your write up) for SVT kit.

It really is that simple. There is no "wrong" bracket. The manufacturing division at JR just updated the late kits to the newer belt routing of the SVT to simplify casting inventory. Problem is, they forgot to update the instructions. I am trying to get that done as we speak. But considering I'm not part of the organization any longer it is taking me longer than I thought.

[Bmorezx3]

You should never hit the end of a supercharger with a hammer. I don't care if it is a rubber mallet. You probably brinneled the hell out of the front cover bearings shortening their life considerably. What you should have done was found a bolt that fit into the end of the input shaft and then used your pulley puller in the opposite direction to push the pulley onto the shaft. Just my two cents. Nate.

I understand that the hammer might not have been the best choice, but I didn't jack whack the thing on there with full force. At most I tapped the pulley gently to get it on to the nose.

EDIT: on second glance it does appear that I made it seem like I used a lot more force than I really did. "Tapped" might have been a better choice than "hammered."

Nate

[Bmorezx3]

Nate,

Your write up is good but some of the facts are incorrect. First, there are two brackets available. Early and late. Early was originally for Zetec of course. The late was for the SVT. BOTH were drilled for the tensioner mount. You stated in your write up that there was no provision for the tensioner mounting bolts on the "wrong" (late SVT) bracket. This is not true. Either bracket will work. Here is how it shapes up.

IF you have the early bracket with the mounting bolts at 10 oclock and 4 oclock position, like seen in the JR illustrations on your write up, you route the belt just as the illustration on the JR website states for Zetec.

IF you have the late bracket with the mounting holes at 9 oclock and 3 oclock (as seen in the photograph, being held in someones hand)you route the belt just as the illustration shows on the JR website (same as the routing you have drawn in your write up) for SVT kit.

It really is that simple. There is no "wrong" bracket. The manufacturing division at JR just updated the late kits to the newer belt routing of the SVT to simplify casting inventory. Problem is, they forgot to update the instructions. I am trying to get that done as we speak. But considering I'm not part of the organization any longer it is taking me longer than I thought.

From the man himself.

Yeah, I posted these directions along with my "squealing belt fix" before I learned that this was intentional. It is unfortunate that several calls to Moss Motors never revealed this discrepancy. Both the guys from McNews Automotive and myself called Moss to figure out why the belt was slipping and got "you need a new tensioner." Then when I finally realized the problem and called them back I was told "we'll look into it." Six months later I had heard nothing back. For such a simple problem Moss seemed completely disinclined to help.

I appreciate you taking the time to check out my how-to, if you have any other suggestions feel free to let me know!

[OJEngineeringSr]

Nate,

You are an asset to the Jet. I'm glad you and I have been able to work together on this and future issues. Thanks for having me.

I, like you, struggle to understand my old group sometimes. Because they really are a talented bunch of guys. But in my opinion if there is an issue you jump on the facts, find the solution, and put it to bed. But Moss is such a big company that everyone is busy as can be. Plus, the tech guys get so many "bad install" phone calls (people that don't follow the instructions)that I think the tech guys just get numb to any real concerns. And now that I'm not close enough to just go fix it myself, I have to depend on them getting back to me so that I can guide them through the fix. Moss/JR should have this fixed and on the website soon.

Thanks again for all your help,

[Dudley]

...We are all anxiously awaiting your 5th and 6th posts...

I'm sorry for the OT, but that was just too damn funny.

[nordy200]

Bmorezx3, (not the other nate!),
I did the same thing each time I installed new pullies on 2 different JRSC setups-tap it in place with a hammer to properly seat it, then tighten the screw.
BTW, you were much too gentle on what's his name. Great reply though!

[Bmorezx3]

Bmorezx3, (not the other nate!),
I did the same thing each time I installed new pullies on 2 different JRSC setups-tap it in place with a hammer to properly seat it, then tighten the screw.
BTW, you were much too gentle on what's his name. Great reply though!

Yeah, I'm not exactly sure how I was supposed to "used your pulley puller in the opposite direction to push the pulley onto the shaft."

It's a pulley PULLER and, much like myself, only goes one way. I gave the thought of reversing the puller to replace the pulley, but then realized there is no way to turn a pulley puller into a pulley pusher.

Nate

[natedog_1959]

Bmorezx3, Sorry for the harshness. I went a little overboard. Just because my tag says I'm a rookie doesn't mean I don't know what I'm talking about. After having been on co-op with Eaton Supercharger for 2 plus years it really irks me to see guys mishandling our products and then wondering down the road why they failed. I have faith that you knew what you were doing I just hate to see someone mess up such a well engineered product because of something so simple as a pulley change. If you had sent your unit to Magnuson or Jackson Racing to have the pulley professionally installed or used a pulley puller/press tool as opposed to the hammer/screw method I might have been more cordial as I have been in my other posts. So maybe we can all learn from this discussion that it is better to review our posts (yours) before someone with a little more experience comes along and trashes them without first getting to the bottom of things (mine). Thanks, Nate.

[Bmorezx3]

Bmorezx3, Sorry for the harshness. I went a little overboard. Just because my tag says I'm a rookie doesn't mean I don't know what I'm talking about. After having been on co-op with Eaton Supercharger for 2 plus years it really irks me to see guys mishandling our products and then wondering down the road why they failed. I have faith that you knew what you were doing I just hate to see someone mess up such a well engineered product because of something so simple as a pulley change. If you had sent your unit to Magnuson or Jackson Racing to have the pulley professionally installed or used a pulley puller/press tool as opposed to the hammer/screw method I might have been more cordial as I have been in my other posts. So maybe we can all learn from this discussion that it is better to review our posts (yours) before someone with a little more experience comes along and trashes them without first getting to the bottom of things (mine). Thanks, Nate.

I totally respect where you are coming from and I know first hand that "rookie" doesn't mean "uneducated." We are all rookies somewhere at some point.

I could not find a pulley press nor did any of the auto stores I went to know if one existed (and I did check.) I was told that tapping it on wouldn't be a problem, but then people at auto parts stores aren't normally the best and brightest so take that for what it's worth.

I attempted to be as gentle as possible when working with the supercharger, I have been working on cars for a few years and know very well that (in most cases) brute strength and auto repair don't go together. I asked on the boards before I started the project if there was anything to know ahead of time, many said the pulley should go on and off with ease. This was certainly not a case of "if it doesn't fit, grab the hammer!"

I appreciate your concern about my methods and I will make the changes to my write-up. I certainly don't want anyone doing any damage to their cars because of my shortsightedness. If you don't mind, sould you please link a source where one could find a pulley press?

Nate

[natedog_1959]

At Eaton we use a hydraulic pulley puller/press combo. The company that makes these pullers is Snap-on Tools. Here is a link to one of their products. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?Group_ID=1197
It has many different pullers and press on tools as well as the pumps necessary to feed the puller/press. The main reason I recommend having a shop do the work is that these tools are rather expensive.

Depending on what attachments you choose, the same device can be used for both functions. Basically, we run a threaded shaft into the input shaft and use a puller in the reverse direction. The puller presses on the pulley and presses it onto the shaft. I will try to get a picture of what I am talking about and figure out how to post it.

In your installation, I assume you were holding the rotors when you used the screw/bolt to push the pulley onto the shaft. If you use too much torque on the input shaft while holding the rotors steady you can potentially change your rotor timing by causing the timing gears to slip on the rotor shafts. Bad rotor timing can lead to rotor contact and quickly destroy a supercharger. Just one more thing to note when using the method you outlined. Nate.

[nordy200]

I asked on the boards before I started the project if there was anything to know ahead of time, many said the pulley should go on and off with ease.

I was one who responded that it should go on and off easily-I had a puller ready when I changed out my first pulley in 2001 but gave it a GENTLE tap and it came right off. Same thing on my SVT last year-the 3.6" pulley came right off with a gentle tap. Getting the nut loosened, now that's another story.
Definately agree with natedog about not hurting the blower-I would have used my puller if the blower pulley had not come off with a gentle tap.

[w00w00]

bump for demonfire. keep this topic.