DIY Turbo Install - Focaljet

**PRTurboZX3** · 03-22-2005, 11:39 PM

How to Install Stage 2 Turbo Kit

1.)Gas Cut-off is located on the passenger side panel under the glove box, just press the button and start the car until shut off.

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image002.jpg

2.) After When car shut off, because there’s no gas in the line. Now you can start with the installation.

This instructions on how to change the injectors I got them from http://www.steedafocus.com/edge.htm on how to change the fuel rail, is the same procedure just you are changing the injectors instead.

3.) Disconnect the battery negative terminal. In this install you're dealing with fuel so it is extremely important that you disconnect it.

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image003.jpg

4.) Once you have disconnected the battery you can remove the rubber intake tube that goes to your throttle body (above right). This can be done with a flat head screw driver.
http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image004.jpg

5.) Next remove the throttle linkage cables (above). There are two cables to remove. The cable with the large rubber grommet, simply pull on the grommet forward to pop it out (you don't have to disconnect it, just get the grommet out so you can move it out of the way, behind the throttle body).The second cable you can simply push back on (toward the firewall), to disconnect it and then pull it completely out of the bracket and lay it off to the side

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image005.jpg

6.) Next disconnect the fuel injector wire harness. First find the wire clips (located on the valve cover side) and push them in with a flat head screw driver, while pushing in on the clip, lift up on the wire harness. Start on one end and work your way to the other end.

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image006.jpg
7.) Now unbolt the two bolts holding the factory fuel rail to the head using an 8mm socket. Be careful not to drop any bolts! Leave the rail in place for now, the injectors won't fall out.

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image007.jpg

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image008.jpg

8.) Now remove the two 8mm bolts that connect to the passenger side of the fuel rail. If you're careful you don't need to disconnect the wire harness, vacuum line or fuel line. By having the fuel rail disconnected you can move it around a little to get clearance.

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image009.jpg

9.) Once you have removed the two bolts, lift up on the fuel rail (passenger side) and pull off the feed line bracket (what you just un-bolted) and QUICKLY PLUG THE END OF THE FUEL RAIL WITH YOUR FINGER. This will keep fuel from spilling all over your garage floor. Now lift the fuel rail out and dispose the fuel properly. Don't worry if you spill some fuel down the back of the motor, rinse it off with water when you are done, but it could smell for a day or two.

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image010.jpg

10.) Now that you have the fuel rail off the car, use a screw driver to pop off the factory clips that hold the injectors. Remove the old injector and just pop back on the new injectors and put the clip back on.

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image012.jpg

Now is time for the good stuff

11.) Let's start with taking the front bumper off, There is 8 bolts total + 4 plastic screws + 2 Plastics Clips. Un-plug the side marker lights and the fog lights (If your car has fog lights)

12.) Three bolts on each side under the bumper area (6 bolts size = 10MM)

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image014.jpg

13.) Then one on each side fender size = (???) (see picture below)

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image016.jpg

14.) Remove the cover from top of the bumper that has 4 plastic screws. After the cover is off now you can take the 2 plastic clips.

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image018.jpg

15.) After the cover is remove, then you can remove two plastic clips found under the cover. (see picture below)

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image020.jpg

16.) Top picture is on the left side , bottom picture is on the right side.

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image022.jpg

17.) Side View

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image024.jpg

18.) Start taking off the factory header by taking off 10 bolts, size 13MM.

19.) After you take the factory header bolts off, there’s one bolt that is hard to take off. Drop the cat by loosing 3 bolts (size="15MM") See Picture below.

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image026.jpg

20.) After you take the 3 bolts off, there's a bracket holding the cat inplace. There's 2 nuts of size=15mm that holds the cat. (This bracket shown below is ok to eliminate.) Then you will be able to lower the cat a little so you can take that last bolts off from the factory header.

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image028.jpg

21.) Now you can completely remove the cat and it will be easier to unbolt the EGR pipe.

22.) Now un-bolt the 2 screws from the EGR, Size=8mm See Below, when adding the EGR block off make sure you take the gasket from the Factory EGR.

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image030.jpg

23.) EGR Block off Cover, Size=8mm

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image032.jpg

24.) DO NOT ELIMINATE THIS BRACKET, UNLESS YOU WANT YOUR NEW HEADER TO BREAK.

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image034.jpg

25.) Remove and install new oil pan, don’t pry the can from the flat side (don’t need gasket, just use silicone and make sure you clean the old silicone first)

26.) I don’t have picture, this is pretty simple to do... but the socket size=8mm total of 17 bolts. Remember to change the oil filter, the one I use a MotorCraft Model = FL-2005. Part number = F8CZ-6731-AA (See Picture Below)

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image036.jpg

27.) Warning (Don’t put the oil in yet, since you have a fitting in the oil pan, where the turbine will connect the return oil line.

28.) Now you can start by putting the manifold with the turbine attach. I recommend that you attach the turbine to the header before you put the header in. Make sure you tight the manifold good to the block. (See Picture below)

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image038.jpg

29.) Now secure the down pipe with the flex pipe and make sure the bracket is in, (Don’t eliminate the bracket, unless you want a broken header) See Picture below , you might have to modify the bracket by cutting the center. Tight the downpipe to the flex first, then tight the bracket part second. Don't tight the downpipe to the bracket first, because it could cause some stress on the downpipe and make the manifold crack.

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image042.jpg

30.) If the down pipe don’t align with the bracket or don’t fit, don’t worry just cut the center (Don’t pride the pipe down, because if you do that it will brake the header) See picture below.

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image044.jpg

31.) Just cut the center part like picture below.

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image046.jpg

32.) Some down pipe have this support that hook-up where the catalytic bracket was. You may have to shim the down pipe to engine tab with washers to make sure you have no bending load in the down pipe. This is only if your tab doesn't flush with the block. In my case i didn't have to put washers. And if the bolt doesn't aling might have to make it a little bigger or use a dremmel to cut until you can insert the bolt without having to force it in.

(see picture below - I'm going to re-take the picture is not clear)

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image040.jpg

33.) Install the O2 sensor before you install the waste gate, after the O2 sensor is install now you can install the waste gate, just two screws , and hook up the pipe that routes to the exhaust pipe (if your down pipe is setup this way)

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image048.jpg

34.) Remove coil pack, write down the spark plug order, and remove the coil bracket that is attached in three places. Using Torx size = (t30)

35.) Now you can start with the oil line, good place is from below the bracket of the coil pack. To take the coil pack of their 4 Screws Size = and the bracket has 3 bolts size = (T40)

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image050.jpg

36.) You have to cut the bracket, and if you are using the MSD coil pack it will fit just fine, but if you use the factory you are going to cut one of the feet of the coil pack.

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image052.jpg

37.) Install the return oil hose from the turbine to the fitting in the oil pan.

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image054.jpg

38.) Install piping that route to the intercooler.

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image056.jpg

39.) Now you can see where exactly the intercooler will lay, so you can drill the holes. (Buy a lot of drill bits and gets sheet metal screws. if not; you are going for a treat).

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image058.jpg

40.) You have to loose the two bolts that hole the pipes for the power steering cooler. See picture below. Don’t worry about tightening those back since they are going to be press by the intercooler.

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image060.jpg

41.) After intercooler is install, proceed with the Throttle body pipe, and you have to re route the battery cables, and the MAF Sensor cable.

42.) Remove the battery and base, The MAF sensor cable, you will have to remove the black tape, be careful not to cut the wires while doing this. Then you can install the pipe that goes to the intercooler.

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image062.jpg

43.) Install the BOV; the vacuum line will connect on the intake manifold.

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image064.jpg

44.) Now you can install the pipe from the turbine to the MAF and then pipe to the Air Filter. (If the pipes make the filter come out the fender, you might have to cut the end to make the filter fit inside of the fender.)

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image066.jpg

45.) Connect the hose from the turbine charge side to the Waste gate (if you don’t have a boost controller)

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image068.jpg

46.) Picture below show you the hose that comes from the charge side of the turbine to the wastegate. (This if you don't have a boost controller, if you do have a boost controller then follow the instructions of the boost controller.)

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image070.jpg

47.) Now take the ECU and open it, by un-screwing 6 screws size = (???)

48.) Steeda has good instructions, go to http://www.steedafocus.com/installs/...stallsChip.htm

49.) Make sure you really, really clean the contacts, if not you might damage the ECU and the computer chip.

50.) Install pyrometer sensor, boost controller, boost gauge, and any other electronics you might have.

51.) After you get the turbo install, make sure you have the return line from the turbine to the oil pan connected and tighten, then insert the oil and un-plug the plug from the coil and crank the motor until there’s oil coming out of the oil feed line, after that then you are ok to tight that back and plug the coil pack cable back.

Now at this point is just <font color="red">Fire up </font> the car and have Fun.

These instructions were made by <font color="red">PRTurboZX3 </font>

Ford 104 pin out ECU diagram

This diagram is good for hooking up electronics, like the JandS Safeguard or for future projects.

mod edit: added some stuff.

**PRTurboZX3** · 03-22-2005, 11:42 PM

For some reason i can't post too many pictures. Please let me know if there's any errors or anything i need to change. there's some socket size i need to fix. i'll try to get those changes done some time this week.

Here's the link for my website that has this instruccions with pictures.

http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstallturbofullkit.htm

Thanks,
PRTurboZX3

**Low18s** · 03-23-2005, 12:09 AM

Wow.

You got patience my friend.

Must be fun with the car.

**PRTurboZX3** · 03-23-2005, 12:13 AM

It's a whole new car, now with turbo.. i love it. still have some work to do, but it just minor stuff.. the car has been running for a two months now, with now problem.. the kit was easy to install.

**Low18s** · 03-23-2005, 12:14 AM

Where are you in VA?

**Ray** · 03-23-2005, 07:10 AM

added to the references thread. thanks for the hard work prturbo.

**Welding Rod** · 03-23-2005, 09:03 AM

Good show PRT!

**PRTurboZX3** · 03-23-2005, 12:34 PM

Thanks, Welding Rod!

Let me know if there's anything not clear or misspell. I have already notice couple things, so i'm going to add couple more pictures and replace couple of pictures with better ones and ones with arrows pointing to things more specific.

Thanks, for the support and I hope this help people out. Like, you all have done for me. I have learned a lot from this forum so I thought I could re-pay it back by doing this, for the newbie’s.

PRTurboZX3

**Bmorezx3** · 03-23-2005, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Good show PRT!

Very nice!

I'm not a turbo guy, but I can appreciate hard work! Thanks!

Nate

**cosworth** · 03-23-2005, 07:33 PM

add to DIY list?

**scott77** · 03-23-2005, 07:39 PM

Erick...GOOD JOB!

**Old man** · 03-23-2005, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Erick...GOOD JOB!

Great job!

Hope you don't mind. Just went to your site and printed out the whole install. Makes a great reference.

Louie.

**PRTurboZX3** · 03-23-2005, 07:57 PM

don't mind,, that's why i did this.. later i will create the pdf so you don't have the top part of my website.. i might do a printable page too. Like i said before, please let me know if there's any errors, including grammar ones. i have notice couple of things so i'm going to be working on those this week if i have time.

Thanks, for all the support
PRTurboZX3

**Ray** · 03-24-2005, 08:39 AM

Quote:

add to DIY list?

Quote:

added to the references thread. thanks for the hard work prturbo.

already done.

**w00w00** · 09-12-2005, 01:29 PM

bump for demonfire. keep this topic.

**PRTurboZX3** · 09-12-2005, 09:22 PM

Updates the DIY Turbo Install

Part 28 to 32.

I have problem with the manifold cracking so this time i install it differently and so far the manifold haven't crack ..

Quick run down.

1. Make sure dowmpipe is tight with the turbo exhaust side.
2. After mounting the manifold to the block, make sure all the bolts are tight.
3. Now Bolt the bracket to the downpipe and flex pipe.
4. Tight first the downpipe to the flexpipe real good
5. Now tight the downpipe bracket to the block.
6. If your downpipe have a support that bolt right were the catalitic bracket was now you can tight that support.
7. Just make sure that the support when inserting the bolt it goes right in without having to force it in.
8. if there's a gap between the support and the block insert washers to cover the gap.

Hopefully this will help with people that the manifold keeps cracking!!!

Thanks, w00w00 for the bump!!

**OrangeSVT03** · 09-12-2005, 09:50 PM

If you use all 3 of the VF engineering motor mounts it will drastically cut down on the amount of movement and vibration on the downpipe and manifold.

**PRTurboZX3** · 09-12-2005, 11:14 PM

Yes that's true,, the only thing i had those install before i did Turbo and still the manifold crack twice.. but this time i was careful and thought how i did it the first and second time .. came up with this way of doing in it, and so far is helding on..

The trick is on the bolting on the downpipe to flex bracket.. and since people use my instruccions for guidelines, so i thought i needed to share, for others to benefit.

But yes, i do recommend the VF Engineering Motor mounts,, the motor doesn't move..

Oh! OrangeSVT03 I saw your ride when Tom was installing the new aluminum intake, it sure is a sweet ride!!

**OrangeSVT03** · 09-13-2005, 12:16 PM

Thanks,
I was just voted Ride of the Month over at Focus Fanatics

**Notfastenuf** · 09-17-2005, 05:51 PM

Can we sticky this and keep it forever and ever so peeps like me can read it and dream of installing a turbo?

**PRTurboZX3** · 09-17-2005, 11:13 PM

It is a sticky!!

check the first thing posted here in Forced Induction & Nitrous

is under

Forced Induction, Nitrous, Tuning FAQs

03-22-2005, 11:39 PM	#1
PRTurboZX3 TEAM Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Roanoke, VA Posts: 414	DIY Turbo Install How to Install Stage 2 Turbo Kit 1.)Gas Cut-off is located on the passenger side panel under the glove box, just press the button and start the car until shut off. http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image002.jpg 2.) After When car shut off, because there’s no gas in the line. Now you can start with the installation. This instructions on how to change the injectors I got them from http://www.steedafocus.com/edge.htm on how to change the fuel rail, is the same procedure just you are changing the injectors instead. 3.) Disconnect the battery negative terminal. In this install you're dealing with fuel so it is extremely important that you disconnect it. http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image003.jpg 4.) Once you have disconnected the battery you can remove the rubber intake tube that goes to your throttle body (above right). This can be done with a flat head screw driver. http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image004.jpg 5.) Next remove the throttle linkage cables (above). There are two cables to remove. The cable with the large rubber grommet, simply pull on the grommet forward to pop it out (you don't have to disconnect it, just get the grommet out so you can move it out of the way, behind the throttle body).The second cable you can simply push back on (toward the firewall), to disconnect it and then pull it completely out of the bracket and lay it off to the side http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image005.jpg 6.) Next disconnect the fuel injector wire harness. First find the wire clips (located on the valve cover side) and push them in with a flat head screw driver, while pushing in on the clip, lift up on the wire harness. Start on one end and work your way to the other end. http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image006.jpg 7.) Now unbolt the two bolts holding the factory fuel rail to the head using an 8mm socket. Be careful not to drop any bolts! Leave the rail in place for now, the injectors won't fall out. http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image007.jpg http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image008.jpg 8.) Now remove the two 8mm bolts that connect to the passenger side of the fuel rail. If you're careful you don't need to disconnect the wire harness, vacuum line or fuel line. By having the fuel rail disconnected you can move it around a little to get clearance. http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image009.jpg 9.) Once you have removed the two bolts, lift up on the fuel rail (passenger side) and pull off the feed line bracket (what you just un-bolted) and QUICKLY PLUG THE END OF THE FUEL RAIL WITH YOUR FINGER. This will keep fuel from spilling all over your garage floor. Now lift the fuel rail out and dispose the fuel properly. Don't worry if you spill some fuel down the back of the motor, rinse it off with water when you are done, but it could smell for a day or two. http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image010.jpg 10.) Now that you have the fuel rail off the car, use a screw driver to pop off the factory clips that hold the injectors. Remove the old injector and just pop back on the new injectors and put the clip back on. http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image012.jpg Now is time for the good stuff 11.) Let's start with taking the front bumper off, There is 8 bolts total + 4 plastic screws + 2 Plastics Clips. Un-plug the side marker lights and the fog lights (If your car has fog lights) 12.) Three bolts on each side under the bumper area (6 bolts size = 10MM) http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image014.jpg 13.) Then one on each side fender size = (???) (see picture below) http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image016.jpg 14.) Remove the cover from top of the bumper that has 4 plastic screws. After the cover is off now you can take the 2 plastic clips. http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image018.jpg 15.) After the cover is remove, then you can remove two plastic clips found under the cover. (see picture below) http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image020.jpg 16.) Top picture is on the left side , bottom picture is on the right side. http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image022.jpg 17.) Side View http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image024.jpg 18.) Start taking off the factory header by taking off 10 bolts, size 13MM. 19.) After you take the factory header bolts off, there’s one bolt that is hard to take off. Drop the cat by loosing 3 bolts (size="15MM") See Picture below. http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image026.jpg 20.) After you take the 3 bolts off, there's a bracket holding the cat inplace. There's 2 nuts of size=15mm that holds the cat. (This bracket shown below is ok to eliminate.) Then you will be able to lower the cat a little so you can take that last bolts off from the factory header. http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image028.jpg 21.) Now you can completely remove the cat and it will be easier to unbolt the EGR pipe. 22.) Now un-bolt the 2 screws from the EGR, Size=8mm See Below, when adding the EGR block off make sure you take the gasket from the Factory EGR. http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image030.jpg 23.) EGR Block off Cover, Size=8mm http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image032.jpg 24.) DO NOT ELIMINATE THIS BRACKET, UNLESS YOU WANT YOUR NEW HEADER TO BREAK. http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image034.jpg 25.) Remove and install new oil pan, don’t pry the can from the flat side (don’t need gasket, just use silicone and make sure you clean the old silicone first) 26.) I don’t have picture, this is pretty simple to do... but the socket size=8mm total of 17 bolts. Remember to change the oil filter, the one I use a MotorCraft Model = FL-2005. Part number = F8CZ-6731-AA (See Picture Below) http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image036.jpg 27.) Warning (Don’t put the oil in yet, since you have a fitting in the oil pan, where the turbine will connect the return oil line. 28.) Now you can start by putting the manifold with the turbine attach. I recommend that you attach the turbine to the header before you put the header in. Make sure you tight the manifold good to the block. (See Picture below) http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image038.jpg 29.) Now secure the down pipe with the flex pipe and make sure the bracket is in, (Don’t eliminate the bracket, unless you want a broken header) See Picture below , you might have to modify the bracket by cutting the center. Tight the downpipe to the flex first, then tight the bracket part second. Don't tight the downpipe to the bracket first, because it could cause some stress on the downpipe and make the manifold crack. http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image042.jpg 30.) If the down pipe don’t align with the bracket or don’t fit, don’t worry just cut the center (Don’t pride the pipe down, because if you do that it will brake the header) See picture below. http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image044.jpg 31.) Just cut the center part like picture below. http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image046.jpg 32.) Some down pipe have this support that hook-up where the catalytic bracket was. You may have to shim the down pipe to engine tab with washers to make sure you have no bending load in the down pipe. This is only if your tab doesn't flush with the block. In my case i didn't have to put washers. And if the bolt doesn't aling might have to make it a little bigger or use a dremmel to cut until you can insert the bolt without having to force it in. (see picture below - I'm going to re-take the picture is not clear) http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image040.jpg 33.) Install the O2 sensor before you install the waste gate, after the O2 sensor is install now you can install the waste gate, just two screws , and hook up the pipe that routes to the exhaust pipe (if your down pipe is setup this way) http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image048.jpg 34.) Remove coil pack, write down the spark plug order, and remove the coil bracket that is attached in three places. Using Torx size = (t30) 35.) Now you can start with the oil line, good place is from below the bracket of the coil pack. To take the coil pack of their 4 Screws Size = and the bracket has 3 bolts size = (T40) http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image050.jpg 36.) You have to cut the bracket, and if you are using the MSD coil pack it will fit just fine, but if you use the factory you are going to cut one of the feet of the coil pack. http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image052.jpg 37.) Install the return oil hose from the turbine to the fitting in the oil pan. http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image054.jpg 38.) Install piping that route to the intercooler. http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image056.jpg 39.) Now you can see where exactly the intercooler will lay, so you can drill the holes. (Buy a lot of drill bits and gets sheet metal screws. if not; you are going for a treat). http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image058.jpg 40.) You have to loose the two bolts that hole the pipes for the power steering cooler. See picture below. Don’t worry about tightening those back since they are going to be press by the intercooler. http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image060.jpg 41.) After intercooler is install, proceed with the Throttle body pipe, and you have to re route the battery cables, and the MAF Sensor cable. 42.) Remove the battery and base, The MAF sensor cable, you will have to remove the black tape, be careful not to cut the wires while doing this. Then you can install the pipe that goes to the intercooler. http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image062.jpg 43.) Install the BOV; the vacuum line will connect on the intake manifold. http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image064.jpg 44.) Now you can install the pipe from the turbine to the MAF and then pipe to the Air Filter. (If the pipes make the filter come out the fender, you might have to cut the end to make the filter fit inside of the fender.) http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image066.jpg 45.) Connect the hose from the turbine charge side to the Waste gate (if you don’t have a boost controller) http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image068.jpg 46.) Picture below show you the hose that comes from the charge side of the turbine to the wastegate. (This if you don't have a boost controller, if you do have a boost controller then follow the instructions of the boost controller.) http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstall...s/image070.jpg 47.) Now take the ECU and open it, by un-screwing 6 screws size = (???) 48.) Steeda has good instructions, go to http://www.steedafocus.com/installs/...stallsChip.htm 49.) Make sure you really, really clean the contacts, if not you might damage the ECU and the computer chip. 50.) Install pyrometer sensor, boost controller, boost gauge, and any other electronics you might have. 51.) After you get the turbo install, make sure you have the return line from the turbine to the oil pan connected and tighten, then insert the oil and un-plug the plug from the coil and crank the motor until there’s oil coming out of the oil feed line, after that then you are ok to tight that back and plug the coil pack cable back. Now at this point is just <font color="red">Fire up </font> the car and have Fun. These instructions were made by <font color="red">PRTurboZX3 </font> Ford 104 pin out ECU diagram This diagram is good for hooking up electronics, like the JandS Safeguard or for future projects. mod edit: added some stuff.

03-22-2005, 11:42 PM	#2
PRTurboZX3 TEAM Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Roanoke, VA Posts: 414	Re: DIY Turbo Install For some reason i can't post too many pictures. Please let me know if there's any errors or anything i need to change. there's some socket size i need to fix. i'll try to get those changes done some time this week. Here's the link for my website that has this instruccions with pictures. http://www.turbozx3.com/howtoinstallturbofullkit.htm Thanks, PRTurboZX3

03-23-2005, 12:09 AM	#3
Low18s Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Sterling, VA Posts: 97	Re: DIY Turbo Install Wow. You got patience my friend. Must be fun with the car.

03-23-2005, 12:13 AM	#4
PRTurboZX3 TEAM Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Roanoke, VA Posts: 414	Re: DIY Turbo Install It's a whole new car, now with turbo.. i love it. still have some work to do, but it just minor stuff.. the car has been running for a two months now, with now problem.. the kit was easy to install.

03-23-2005, 12:14 AM	#5
Low18s Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Sterling, VA Posts: 97	Re: DIY Turbo Install Where are you in VA?

03-23-2005, 07:10 AM	#6
Ray Driver > Car Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: CT Posts: 26,776	Re: DIY Turbo Install added to the references thread. thanks for the hard work prturbo.

03-23-2005, 09:03 AM	#7
Welding Rod Senior TEAM Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Northwest Posts: 3,421	Re: DIY Turbo Install Good show PRT!

03-23-2005, 12:34 PM	#8
PRTurboZX3 TEAM Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Roanoke, VA Posts: 414	Re: DIY Turbo Install Thanks, Welding Rod! Let me know if there's anything not clear or misspell. I have already notice couple things, so i'm going to add couple more pictures and replace couple of pictures with better ones and ones with arrows pointing to things more specific. Thanks, for the support and I hope this help people out. Like, you all have done for me. I have learned a lot from this forum so I thought I could re-pay it back by doing this, for the newbie’s. PRTurboZX3

03-23-2005, 07:33 PM	#10
cosworth TEAM Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: knee deep in turbo goodness Posts: 871	Re: DIY Turbo Install add to DIY list?

03-23-2005, 07:39 PM	#11
scott77 [FJ] Specialist Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: taking over frush's bedroom Posts: 6,362	Re: DIY Turbo Install Erick...GOOD JOB!

03-23-2005, 07:57 PM	#13
PRTurboZX3 TEAM Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Roanoke, VA Posts: 414	Re: DIY Turbo Install don't mind,, that's why i did this.. later i will create the pdf so you don't have the top part of my website.. i might do a printable page too. Like i said before, please let me know if there's any errors, including grammar ones. i have notice couple of things so i'm going to be working on those this week if i have time. Thanks, for all the support PRTurboZX3

09-12-2005, 01:29 PM	#15
w00w00 Senior TEAM Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: gainesville, fl Posts: 2,271	Re: DIY Turbo Install bump for demonfire. keep this topic.

09-12-2005, 09:22 PM	#16
PRTurboZX3 TEAM Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Roanoke, VA Posts: 414	Re: DIY Turbo Install Updates the DIY Turbo Install Part 28 to 32. I have problem with the manifold cracking so this time i install it differently and so far the manifold haven't crack .. Quick run down. 1. Make sure dowmpipe is tight with the turbo exhaust side. 2. After mounting the manifold to the block, make sure all the bolts are tight. 3. Now Bolt the bracket to the downpipe and flex pipe. 4. Tight first the downpipe to the flexpipe real good 5. Now tight the downpipe bracket to the block. 6. If your downpipe have a support that bolt right were the catalitic bracket was now you can tight that support. 7. Just make sure that the support when inserting the bolt it goes right in without having to force it in. 8. if there's a gap between the support and the block insert washers to cover the gap. Hopefully this will help with people that the manifold keeps cracking!!! Thanks, w00w00 for the bump!!

09-12-2005, 09:50 PM	#17
OrangeSVT03 Senior TEAM Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Waverly , Ohio Posts: 4,326	Re: DIY Turbo Install If you use all 3 of the VF engineering motor mounts it will drastically cut down on the amount of movement and vibration on the downpipe and manifold.

09-12-2005, 11:14 PM	#18
PRTurboZX3 TEAM Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Roanoke, VA Posts: 414	Re: DIY Turbo Install Yes that's true,, the only thing i had those install before i did Turbo and still the manifold crack twice.. but this time i was careful and thought how i did it the first and second time .. came up with this way of doing in it, and so far is helding on.. The trick is on the bolting on the downpipe to flex bracket.. and since people use my instruccions for guidelines, so i thought i needed to share, for others to benefit. But yes, i do recommend the VF Engineering Motor mounts,, the motor doesn't move.. Oh! OrangeSVT03 I saw your ride when Tom was installing the new aluminum intake, it sure is a sweet ride!!

09-13-2005, 12:16 PM	#19
OrangeSVT03 Senior TEAM Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Waverly , Ohio Posts: 4,326	Re: DIY Turbo Install Thanks, I was just voted Ride of the Month over at Focus Fanatics

09-17-2005, 05:51 PM	#20
Notfastenuf TEAM Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Maryland Posts: 178	Re: DIY Turbo Install Can we sticky this and keep it forever and ever so peeps like me can read it and dream of installing a turbo?

09-17-2005, 11:13 PM	#21
PRTurboZX3 TEAM Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Roanoke, VA Posts: 414	Re: DIY Turbo Install It is a sticky!! check the first thing posted here in Forced Induction & Nitrous is under Forced Induction, Nitrous, Tuning FAQs

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode