Powerworks EGT numbers...

[geostef]

well its all on the title: how much are you getting guys?

running a very safe tune, my spark tables WOT higher rpms are down to 3-4-5 degs ,WOT AFR is 11:1 and my EGT are higher than it used to be. I am seeing close to 900 Celcius = 1650F shifting hard on 2nd-3rd-4th ... At cruising under boost pressure I am seeing 550-600 C = 1050-1100 F. Ambient temp is 75-77F and IATs stick to 115 F.

Contrary to what I was beleiving till now, EGTs do not get higher only when you lean out a tune but also when you retard spark after a certain point so that you ignite fuel too late into the conbustion chamber and during the exhaust stroke the EGTs are showing higher...

Can anyone confirm my talking?

[lowlifestyle]

Those are the numbers I saw on mine. EGTs can also go up from running too rich.

[geostef]

Well, mine is not close to the exhaust port is far low on the end of the SVT manifold... I will have my tune checked again...

[Power Surge]

Less timing = higher temps. More timing = lower temps. That's why it's common to run less timing at lower rpms on turbo cars, to get more heat into the exhaust for better spool.

Are you saying that you are only running 3-5 degrees total advance at WOT? Or did you mean you pulled 3-5 degrees?

[lowlifestyle]

Originally Posted by geostef

Well, mine is not close to the exhaust port is far low on the end of the SVT manifold... I will have my tune checked again...

I would get that checked then. I had my probe in the #3 cylinder about 2 inches from the port. You are definately higher at the port with your probe down that far.

[geostef]

Originally Posted by Power Surge

Less timing = higher temps. More timing = lower temps. That's why it's common to run less timing at lower rpms on turbo cars, to get more heat into the exhaust for better spool.

Are you saying that you are only running 3-5 degrees total advance at WOT? Or did you mean you pulled 3-5 degrees?

Total not pulled Yeah I know I might be loosing serious power...

[Power Surge]

Originally Posted by geostef

Total not pulled Yeah I know I might be loosing serious power...

Why are you running so little total advance? You are heating the crap out of the chambers with that little timing. You are probably negating whatever reason you pulled it back that far by HAVING it back that far.

[geostef]

Probably my tuner wanted it to be safe ... Nevertheless if you look the base PW tune you will see that I am not that far plus that this is for the stock pulley approx 13 psi of boost and I am boosting 16 psi/6800rpm


RPM 500 1000 1500 2000 2500 3000 3500 4000 4500 5000 6800

LOAD 140 -- -4 -1 3 4.5 6 8 7.5 6.5 6 6 14

I am also running little rich at WOT as my plx indicates 10.4-10.5 at the middle rpm WOT leaning up to 10.9 :1 at the rev limiter... so majorly this is what causing the EGT get higher

[Inkedfireman]

I've got the stock PW tune, and I'm running my EGT probe about 2" from the #3 port on my SVT header. I never see higher than 1250F (though after scattering one stock motor, I don't rev any higher than 5500).

Denny

[geostef]

ok bringing it back. After I had to wait for 2 weeks for the new sensor for my Greddy , I went to the exhaust shop and re-mounted the sensor bung about 1'' on the third of my SVT manifold. Egts are now worst(of course they would be ) though I havent got the chance to check it out on crusing but idle speed gauge shows 550-580C thats about 1020-1070 F.

Any bright ideas ???? Can this happening due to tune?

[geostef]

UPDATE: last night went on the highway, long upgrade engaged 4th from 2,000rpm accelerated hard shifted to fifth >rev limiter. Switched my greddy to the memory mode max 880 Celcius that means 1615 F at an ambient temp 70F.
Though my crusing at part throttle is 1290 F even at zero boost level.

The impressive thing is that having the egt sensor mounted at the end of the SVT manifold previously was giving very high temp up to 1700 F at stressing , now that I mounted the sensor very very close to the cylinder head on the 3rd one, it gives almost 100 F lower egts. The only change I have done is that I switched to the ITV24 DENSO IRIDIUM plugs from the Motocraft cooper gapped 0,045''...

[OrangeSVT03]

5* of timing is fairly low timing, like it was said earlier too little timing will definitly give you alot of extra heat.... you need to look for a new tuner or at least one a little more familiar with the Focus.

My SVT usually runs around 1100-1200*F at cruise and maybe 1400 at WOT... but that was with 20psi.

I usually try to see around 11.2-11.5 on my AFR

[HaveBlue83]

^^^i am getting the same temps with my PWSC on my SVTF.....

I accidently mounted it in the #2 piston though...AHHH!!!, but i am gonna re-do that when I get back.

i have it tunes by mcnews with an 11.5 AFR. He watch with my predator when I was driving it and it looked all good. it runs great though, 243whp, 190wtq. Knock sensor is going crazy so i didnt get the TQ i wanted yet. I am gonna re-tune and desensitize the knock sensor 50%.

my issue is that I can drive it, but at 110mph, I am at 1500DEG. I shut down there and let it cool to 12-1300. It cruises at around 13-14.

I have some dash pot (hanging rev) and thats about it. pulls hard. I see 8-10PSI depending on the temp outside and air density.

I have low teens pulled timing....like 13-15DEG pulled....

what is the best way of getting those high EGT down??? I have looked at getting a pipercross viper to ram cooler air in, and i want to see after the knock sensor is adjusted what the temps are.

My tune is safe, it just runs hot.

[HaveBlue83]

Just read this....on turbosystem.com

Easy error for new users of EGT: high temps indicate lean condition. Not always true! Excessively rich conditions will result in "after burn", where the fuel, which was unable to completely combust due to insufficient oxygen in the cylinder, lights off in the exhaust system, causing an unusually high temp reading. If all other indicators still suggest a rich mixture, try leaning in small steps, and you will likely see the EGT go down. Just be sure that the power does not also go down from the changes. If you are on the right track, power should go up noticeably as you lean towards optimal mixture while EGT drops. As you approach and then pass the optimal mixture point, the EGT will begin to climb again. STOP! Richen by one step and you are there! Now, when climatic conditions worsen (i.e.: hotter temperature, more humidity, less air density), lean until you get that optimum EGT again. If conditions improve (colder weather, lower altitude, less humidity), richen for optimal EGT. Bear in mind: if EGT suddenly changes for no apparent reason, you may have an aggravating factor (ignition problem, fuel pressure wrong, clogged air inlet, etc.) which is unrelated to tuning. Be observant, and the indicators should guide you to the right tuning decision.

Another caveat: Air fuel ratios, which are not optimal throughout the entire available RPM and manifold condition range, will mislead you. In other words, an optimal EGT signature at high RPM may not show an incorrect condition at lower RPM or different manifold pressure. Although perplexing, this problem is truly the difference between a happy, powerful and long-lived engine and one that is trying to destroy itself slowly but surely. It is one reason why the precision of fuel injection is usually superior to carburetion in both power production and engine life. Just watch ALL the indicators, and remember: lean is mean, and fuel is power. Instead of continuously trying to lean it for maximum HP, try to find ways to get more air to the engine, and thusly support the combustion of more fuel. There's only so many BTU's in a gallon of fuel, no matter how you burn it. Just try to burn more fuel!




i need to have it fine tuned with the Xcal3 and more dyno runs AFTER the Knock sensor issue is resolved...it was difficult for Steve to get it just right because of that. He said i could turn it off, but for now I HAVE IT ON. He also mentioned that I was making MORE power with LESS timing than another SVTF, so it's not that the power isnt there.

[99dot]

geostef, what load are you seeing at idle?

Are you using the mafia on your maf sensor?

If your load is low at idle say .005 to .010 you may be in the wrong part of the timing tables. Your going to need to scale engine displacment to get you load to .012 to .017 at idle. It may need to be as high as .02 for the spark tables to be right

Also you lowered your compression didn't you?

If you did go back and change all the spark values from 30% down back to stock and you may need to add more for you lower compression.

Also, don't forget to renormalize your timing tables load values as you need to leave room up top, so you don't carry a spark value for ever.

Also what spark are you using on decell?

You mite want to raise your spark valve for decells as well. This will help lower your egt's when you let off the gas.

You have my email address right?

Check out the new numbers in my sig

[HaveBlue83]

^^^more stuff i dont know about but will ask the tuner...lol....

[DJuanHouston]

Im running the stock rla6 PW tune and see 14-1500 at 70mph in #3 3" from the port

[99dot]

Originally Posted by DJuanHouston

Im running the stock rla6 PW tune and see 14-1500 at 70mph in #3 3" from the port

When you say stock, is it the PWSC tune or one you wrote with SCT to run on RLA6?

Cause I can't believe PW would put out a tune with that kind of Calibration.



If you wrote it see my post above for some advice on lowering them.



It would be really nice to have a Pro racer forum again, but; SCT forum is up and running again now.


I would hope that you haven't had any problems with the heat down there in Texas DJuan. What kind of AIT's and ECT's are you seeing?


Also please pm me your modifiers for both ACT and ECT as I have a very good understanding of the tune for the PWSC.

I'm also curious if you thought about data logging it and posting it over there in the Pro Racer forum?
Then we can take a look and fix a few of you problems.

There are a few low load settings that need to be changed, read Oranges' old post in forced induction and read between the lines in Randy's response as its time to refresh yourself with using the software.

[DJuanHouston]

99 Im running what Mark at powerworks flashed my ecu with, havent datalogged it but Im trying to get a copy of it in SCT format so I can make some changes.....I think it is too rich by a tad esp above 4000rpm and thats why I see the egts at constant speed @1400F

my first order of business will be working on the idle

[99dot]

Then your running the PWSC flash, its not the same software as SCT.

Most of the tables for spark and what not are Logarithms and are very Linear.

If your having Idle problems, you more than likely have a vaccum leak.

Trust me its leaking, even if you can't find it.


I've been there, its not fun. The last month before I pulled my blower, I finally got everything fixed. It passed emmisions and didn't throw any cells, pulled all the way to the rev limiter.

Only, by then I was ready to move on.

Best choice I ever made was to go turbo, as the car is a joy again..

You still have your PRP?

[DJuanHouston]

still got the PRP

I need advantage 3 I guess as everyone is putting out files in that now

dang I hate change and Im in the stupid computer industry LOL

[DigitalGT]

LOL.... I think I'm going to pick up a Copy of Advantage 3 also. I'm really curious to see how Mark did things..