PWSC owners,watch your oil lines.

[qqqq]

Have had mine on for over a year now and yesterday popped one of the oil lines to the fiter. Luckily,it was the last run of the day (10 runs!) and happened toward the end of the run.The line sprung a pinhole leak spraying oil all over the RH tire. I was wondering why my RH tire was locking up sp easily as I entered the stop box. I went right to the trailer and found the mess.
I had to remove the filter mount off the rail,cut and shorten the hose about 3" to remove the section with the hole in it,reclamp,and just let the filter hang loose. Then I could load the car without making a bigger mess. When those lines get hot,they are very soft as they seem to be made from cheap hose. I have decided to install an oil cooler while I replace the factory supplied lines with better quality hose. Keep an eye on those hoses.If they pop and you don't catch it, you will have a disaster on your hands.

[Smoe]

just build some teflon cheap and easy

[qqqq]

Teflon oil lines?What are you talking about? I am going to use HP rated braided oil lines.

[secondechomatt]

I split one of the "stock" lines the day before thanksgiving and had to fix it in a parking lot, in the rain.....developed a mild case of hypothermia.

Eventually went to a braided stainless set up.

[Reza]

I haven't install my PWSC kit, what should I do to upgrade the lines to brauded stainless setup?

[qqqq]

If you get high quality braided rubber 1/2" oil line in place of the stuff that comes in the kit you should be fine.They make different grades of hose.The hose that comes with the kit is marginal.After a few heat cycles it's as soft as baby crap.

[Reza]

how many feets do I need?

[COSDEVSVT]

Permacool kits and thrifty management suck.

[qqqq]

The SVT's and auto Zetecs use about 10'.Manual Zetecs use about 4'.Just make sure you get a good high quality(Goodyear etc) double braided high pressure(made for oil use) hose and use fuel injection full circle hose clamps;they don't destroy the hose and have a better seal than regular hose clamps.

[ZX3TUNING]

lol, that's part of the reason why i built an oil line upgrades about 2-3 years ago for the manual Zetec cars.
i've had them on and off more time than i can count and no leaks anywhere!

[LornesBored]

hihi

I had the same problem, kablamo emtpy oilpan, get some steel lines in that beech!

[OmniFocus]

I switched to a Mocal take-off plate and Mitch's stainless lines... and recently added an oil cooler with my own homemade SS/AN lines.

A little bit of advice.... Mitch's stuff seems expensive, until you buy all the parts to make your own stainless lines at which point you realize.... holy crap. SS/AN parts are expensive! Combine that with saving yourself some labor and research and the price is just fine.

[Stolle]

am i the only one wondering why this hasnt been stated?

rubber doesnt last forever. replace them every 5000miles like you do with turbo return oil drain lines?

[OmniFocus]

You don't replace a rubber turbo oil line after every 5000 miles... you install a silicon turbo oil return line.

There are millions of OE turbo cars on the road, and the best way to build a reliable aftermarket turbo car is to emulate the factory.

Oil is the lifeblood of our engines... no expense should be spared in keeping it inside.

[COSDEVSVT]

Permacool uses about the cheapest rubber hose I have ever seen - I wouldn't expect it to age well.

The lines in the SVT/ATX relocation kits were constructed with high quality Parker hydraulic hose. I'd say they are even better than OE-quality Goodyear rubber hose. The crimped-end fittings are about as good as they come too (next to a higher-cost 'race quality' AN fitting). Still lower cost than braided SS lines - no way PW could include the cost of those in the kit.

[ZX3TUNING]

Originally Posted by OmniFocus

Mitch's stuff seems expensive, until you buy all the parts to make your own stainless lines at which point you realize.... holy crap. SS/AN parts are expensive! Combine that with saving yourself some labor and research and the price is just fine.

My stuff WAS expensive once that the US dollar got so weak. combined with the fact i used ALL Aeroquip AN and NPT fittings, hoses, P-clamps and Earl's hose-separators.
price can be greatly reduced if you use the cheap parts and lines but that's not a smart idea to do when you are building kits to go onto customer cars... last thing you want is a cheap fitting to fail resulting in a pissed off customer and having to buy a new engine...

plus people always seem to neglect any R&D and testing that goes into a setup...

[kimbo305]

Originally Posted by ZX3TUNING

plus people always seem to neglect any R&D and testing that goes into a setup...

They might, but problems still happen, as this thread goes to show.

Originally Posted by qqqq

If you get high quality braided rubber 1/2" oil line in place of the stuff that comes in the kit you should be fine.They make different grades of hose.The hose that comes with the kit is marginal.After a few heat cycles it's as soft as baby crap.

How much of a cool-off between runs would you say would help it? Were you doing autocross or track, aka how long were you running your engine?

[LornesBored]

he's not even talking about track abuse, hes talking about daily driving that stuff, it was crap. It popped off once, and sprung 2 pinhole leaks the second, when I sold my kit, I told them the lines were crap and they should upgrade.

if you have this kit, get a oil pressure gauge, PLEASE. so you know if you're about to blow up all over a street far away from your home.

[blueovaldave]

Get the F2 kit.

It is great and works like a champ.

I would also suggest putting the Morcal oil take off plate on instead of the Permacool crap that comes with the kit.

[kimbo305]

Originally Posted by LornesBored

he's not even talking about track abuse, hes talking about daily driving that stuff, it was crap. It popped off once, and sprung 2 pinhole leaks the second, when I sold my kit, I told them the lines were crap and they should upgrade.

Seemed to me like he was doing runs of some sort:

Originally Posted by qqqq

Luckily,it was the last run of the day (10 runs!) and happened toward the end of the run.

if you have this kit, get a oil pressure gauge, PLEASE. so you know if you're about to blow up all over a street far away from your home.

The gauge on the SVT reads the whole oil system including the PWSC part, right? Or is the PWSC oil independent somehow?

[blueovaldave]

Originally Posted by kimbo305

The gauge on the SVT reads the whole oil system including the PWSC part, right? Or is the PWSC oil independent somehow?

The PWSC is internally lubricated. No oil flows through it.

The SC hangs down so low in the rear of the engine when mounted you have to mount a remote oil filter kit and plate to move the filter to the frame. These are the lines that end up blowing on people. I bought the stainless steel braided kit when I bought the charger and put it all on at once to eliminate this concern. Only problem I have had in 2 years is the remote oil filter plate leaking where it seals to the block, which is why I recommended getting the Morcal Kit right off the bat instead of waiting like I did.

[kimbo305]

Originally Posted by blueovaldave

The PWSC is internally lubricated. No oil flows through it.

Then which oil pressure is LornesBored talking about?

I guess I'll write down the plate and lines as future maintenance items. Especially since I got the kit used with 10k on it.

[OmniFocus]

Just engine oil pressure.

The SVT's gauge is... better than nothing.

[kimbo305]

Originally Posted by OmniFocus

Just engine oil pressure.

The SVT's gauge is... better than nothing.

oh -- it suddenly clicked now -- the engine oil pressure becomes vulnerable because it's the rerouting of oil (to accomodate the blower) that is the weak point here.

Are aftermarket gauges better because they work with aftermarket pressure measuring mechanisms?

[blueovaldave]

The aftermarket gauge will be more accurate. The gauge on the dash is kind of an "idiot" gauge.

It does not acutally measure pressure it gets its reading from the PCM electronically.

My aftermarket gauge is tapped into the back side of the remote oil filter and reads oil pressure there. You can keep an eye on it an see if there is a problem hopefully before it becomes a disaster.