UnFocused1's New Turbo Project: THE PUMPKIN8OR

[polarisman14]

All right y'all. Time for me to start my own (second) build thread. I used to have a remote turbo setup which I really enjoyed, but the power bug bit me and I wanted to step up to something a little more...capable. Details of my original build can be viewed here:

http://forums.focaljet.com/forced-in...rbo-setup.html

And here's a quick clip of the highest power the previous setup made:
http://s512.photobucket.com/albums/t...t=MOV01983.flv

My current build is pretty much completed, just making a few changes here and there to optimize the current setup. It exists of:

-2.0L Zetec Block bored .007" over, honed, balanced, and blueprinted
-Stock crank
-JE 9.0:1 Pistons
-Eagle Rods
-ARP head studs, rod bolts, and main studs
-OEM motorcraft lower bearings
-Ford Racing P&P head w/improved springs/retainers
-McNews Turbo Grind cams
-Ford Racing IM
-FC 65mm TB
-Ford Racing/Siemens 83lb/hr injectors
-Stock fuel system w/Ford GT pump & OBX fuel rail
-Jay Racing PCV Blockoff Plate w/small catch-can
-Miltek HX Hyperboost Compact DV
-TurboSmart E-Boost2 boost management system
-Jon K's focus HKS turbo manifold
-Jon K's focus HKS downpipe
-Tial 44mm external WG
-3" Tru-bendz flex-pipe
-3" Tru-Bendz exhaust w/1 Vibrant 12" bottle-style resonator and 1 14" Vibrant ultra-quiet resonator
-PWR 6"x6" barrel air-to-water IC system coupled with remnants of FS stage 3 SC intercooler kit
-2.5" charge piping
-ClutchNet stage 5 3-puck clutch
-ClutchMasters lightweight aluminum flywheel
-Torsen T2 ATB differential
-Ford Racing 4.06:1 final drive gears
-SCT X-Calibrator 2 tuned by Randy@FSWerks

...And I think that's about it for the go-fast bits.

No dyno yet, but my guess is around the 350whp range on 93 octane pump gas...eats up street tires through third gear and hazes my BF Goodrich drag radials through third as well. I was gonna make a trip to the dyno but it ingested some bad gas (I think) RIGHT before putting it away for the season so I'll be starting fresh in the quest for some numbers next season. I am switching over to Jeff (iceguyb14)'s NGR type-s BOV to appease my ricer side, but other than that it's going away.

Next year's goals are:

-Install Lakewood traction bars (provided they don't interfere with charge piping's location)
-Lower charge temps (currently 40-50 degrees above ambient)--a new heat exchanger should take care of that as I already have a 1.5-2 gallon reservoir and intercooler barrel rated to 500+hp.
-Recirculate wastegate dump...Sounds sweet but is obnoxious at times
-Ceramic coat exhaust housing and manifold to keep underhood temps down and keep the system looking nice
-Make it to the dyno and get some real numbers
-Save up to make it look like less of a rolling turd...

Anyway, on to the pics and clips.

Remote setup on its way out of the car:


Most of the parts being taken out:


The turbo section itself:


In-Process Pictures:








...This build wasn't without its share of ups, downs, and outright failures. First, I took it to the dyno shop to see what numbers it put down, and this happened:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q3kymqOHs0o

The long and short of it was that the wastegate lines were hooked up backwards (even though I triple checked them...D'oh!!!) and it lifted the head gasket. The good news is that the person who built my engine didn't torque the head bolts to ARP specs, but instead to stock specs (just over half...). This allowed the head to lift instead of holding everything together and bending/breaking all sorts of expensive stuff. Flash forward a few weeks, I've ripped the entire engine apart, replaced the HG, and got it all back together...And then I have this retarded issue to deal with:

http://s512.photobucket.com/albums/t...IssueVideo.flv

Along with a complete and utter lack of power. I timed the cams EXACTLY to the specs that come with the Zetec cam timing tool, but didn't index the crank to the cams...Basically there was some slop in the idler pulley and tensioner that wasn't allowing the cams to actually zero out in reference to the crankshaft. This caused a ridiculous idle, a ton of boost going out the exhaust instead of doing its job in the combustion chamber, and zero(ish) power. Thankfully, this is where we're at (almost) now:

http://s512.photobucket.com/albums/t...hedExhaust.flv

http://s512.photobucket.com/albums/t...ling145psi.flv



That was on 14.5psi a few tunes away from the finished one--the finished tune that I still have no videos from has about 6 degrees (perhaps 8) more timing and about 3 more pounds of boost.

If anyone has any questions, please ask, by all means. Chances are if you're having an issue with something Zetec-related, I've come across it already . Thanks!

[pzev04boy]

Nice air to water setup. I thought I was the only one!!!

[polarisman14]

^^Naw, I had a VF/FS supercharger setup before the remote turbo setup so I already had the peripherals for a solid system...Figured it would be easier to utilize what I already had.

PS, I know you are well-versed in air to water...Any idea what's up with my charge temps? The FSW reservoir occupies the entire left front corner of the bumper area so I don't think it's an issue with reservoir size...What are you running for reservoir and heat exchanger?

[NHFocus]

Bout time you made one of these. Can't wait to see how the car progresses in the spring, now that theres only a few more blips in the tuning.

[Ja-Red]

Are you sure your pump is working? 50 deg above ambient, that seems crazy. I have never seen more than 15 deg above on my A/A, and I have a small (although obviously efficient) core. IDK, the pump could be too fast too slow... have you played around with that at all?

[polarisman14]

Nope...I figured if it was good enough for FS to release with a kit then it should be working correctly--I need to make sure the hoses are routed correctly to go from the heat exchanger directly to the barrel but I'm not sure it can go any other way lol. The pump is working because I can open the reservoir cap and see the water moving around inside. I may put something in there to slow the flow of coolant with the idea that maybe it isnt staying in the heat exchanger long enough to cool down...But with the exchanger about the size as the PW one, I'm pretty sure I'm just making too much power. On lower boost (11 or so) its within 20 degrees, and that is close to the 275hp or so that the PW kit is capable of...

[Ja-Red]

I would un-hook a hose and see what kind of flow you are dealing with. Try putting Ice in the tank. If your ITAs go way down Then I would say your heat exchanger is too small. You need to start ruling some things out.

[pzev04boy]

My suggestions. Get a slower pump & if that doesn't work a bigger heat exchanger. What are you using for fluid? Also is your liquid inlet/outlet to the cooler going in at the front of the car & out at the back of the car?

Again the lightning pump moves the coolant too fast to be effective. You can get a pump controller from zzp performance. It runs the pump @ 5% speed at idle and steps it up to 50% at wide open throttle. They tested the lightning pump and it consistantly caused about 50 degree over ambinet temps. The pump controller fixes that. Even in lignting & cobras the pcm slows the coolant pump at idle and speeds it up under throttle.

It flows too much fluid all out to be effective.

Also you might want to put a loop in your return hose from the cooler to keep air from bleeding back into it.

[pzev04boy]

http://www.zzperformance.com/grand_p...=816&catid=139

[Dtec04]

Sweet! Glad to see all this action in the FI threads finally

[turbozeteczx3]

^^^dtec anything new on yours

[Dtec04]

^^^PM sent.

[polarisman14]

I stopped by the gas station and put in some fresh 93 along with the sta-bil and drygas...Confirmed that it was bad gas causing all the problems. It pulls like a sonofabitch...I never had a chance to take it up to the top of fourth yet and it actually almost feels like the wheels are going to haze the top end of fourth. A splash of 104 and another psi or two of boost (19-20psi total) and it definitely would. Anyway, just glad to report the good news.

I'm not sure what pump FS used, I'll look into it...Definitely some good suggestions there and I figured it was one or the other. I was thinking instead of spending a bunch of money on a pump and whatnot couldn't you just put a hose barb or something in the line that would neck down the diameter of the tubing right after the heat exchanger? My thought process is that it would back the coolant up in the heat exchanger and cause it to stay in there longer, cooling it more efficiently.

The way the pump is wired up now it takes the signal from the coil pack wire but it's just on the same amount the whole time. I'll yank the hoses off next year so I can give you an approximate GPM figure and we can see if it's the right speed or not. I wonder how much power I could pick up by making the temps within 10 degrees of ambient?

[2002red]

It's been a while since I took fluid mechanics, but I seem to remember something about increasing the fluid velocity increases the heat transfer ... I think you may have too much flow restriction in the current system or your front mount heat exchanger can't keep up with the heat being generated in the turbo.

Car looks good, Matt. It's come a long way since you first installed the supercharger kit.

[pzev04boy]

Originally Posted by 2002red

It's been a while since I took fluid mechanics, but I seem to remember something about increasing the fluid velocity increases the heat transfer ... I think you may have too much flow restriction in the current system or your front mount heat exchanger can't keep up with the heat being generated in the turbo.

Car looks good, Matt. It's come a long way since you first installed the supercharger kit.

It's been tested in the real world that slowing the flow cools better. I think the liquid absorbs the heat just fine. It just needs more time in the heat exchanger to release it.

I posted the link to the zzp pump motor control. They don't make it for no reason.

And like i stated before the lightnings & cobras don't even run that pump @ 100%

[bmylez]

If I may offer just one piece of advice. Don't ceramic coat anything. Heat wrap keeps in so much more heat and it costs less. I touched John's manifold right after shutting off the car. Hot to the touch, but didn't burn the skin. John has touched manifolds that were ceramic coated and it took skin off. Ceramic looks cool, but I think wrap looks even cooler. I got the DEI titanium stuff and it's pretty sweet.

[polarisman14]

^^I may do that, not sure yet. Either way I will probably ceramic coat the turbine housing--I talked to Jon and he advised against using a turbo blanket, not to mention I can't even find one for a T25 footprint turbo like the GT2835. I used heat wrap on previous builds with good results but you generally have to re-wrap it once every couple years.

I'll look into that pump controller, and give FS a call to see if their relay and system ran the pump at 100%. Thank you for the tip.

As a side note, I only observed the charge temps going above ambient when at full boost on a third gear pull. At idle and when driving, the charge temps were within 5-10 degrees of idle--that's why I was thinking it wasn't the pump itself. The ZZP pump controller ramps up to 100% duty cycle at 50% throttle so at that point it would be functioning the same as one hard-wired to be on all the time...Since the temps don't become an issue until building/at full boost, would it make a difference? That's why I was leaning toward me having power levels higher than the heat exchanger had the capability to cool--the charge temps only become an issue at higher power levels than the original FS SC kit were intended for.

[Paladin]

this car is nuty, but is there any way to clean up the underhood appearence? i see cables and hoses everywhere,lol.
i know its probalby not too high in the priority list.i jsut theink it'd be that muc hsicker if everything was routed so it looked better than factory.

[IslandFocus]

Looking good Matt

[zach92r]

If you constrict the fluid to much itll actually heat up not cool down, thats one factor in fluid dynamics.

[polarisman14]

I'll work on fixing the wiring stuff next season probably--most of the stuff is where it needs to be unfortunately but it's all functional. I'd rather own a full-out track car then a trailer queen...The engine bay is pretty dirty at all times, lol...I'll work on fixing some of the wiring because its a potential hazard but that's about it.

[polarisman14]

Quick update,

Bought some wheels since I'm pretty happy with the performance of the car now--but I did make another purchase from another fellow 'Jetter:



NGR Type S BOV w/recirculation adapter flange. Should sound a little cooler now. I decided to jump the gun and add the secondary spring and vacuum port to ensure that it'll work smoothly at both low and high boost levels and everything in between. I'll post up some clips and whatnot once I get it installed...Hopefully Friday, but we'll see what the weather decides to do.

[polarisman14]

Update, BOV is installed but no video clips--unfortunately it is pretty quiet but sounds great, thanks jeff--I think the quietness is due mostly to it being recirculated but it's also because it is venting into a pretty thick rubbery tube which probably dampens the sound significantly. I may see if there's a way to put an aluminum tube in its place to make it a little more audible. I'm not like a wrx or srt-4 driver making it go off all the time, but I do like to be able to hear it when it does go off.