stock stereo with subs

[jcatman]

i just need to kno how to hook up the remote turn on for the amp. ive never hoooked up a system to a stock head unit.

[tysmagic]

Find power, if you don't want a switch find power that turns off and on with the car, tap into that. If it's constant power install a switch to turn the amp on and off when the car is off. Good idea to have a switch even if the power isn't constant, will let you turn off the subs if for some reason you needed too (lady in the car, mother/grandmother, headache, etc). Run that wire to the amp.

I want to say, 18 gauge wire or so? I dont know if the cig lighter is constant or not, but that's a possibility. Power wire to the radio, I've heard some people using the power wire to their amp and piggy backing off that. I don't like the idea because I'd assume any time you are messing with your power wire you are losing power as well, at least creating resistance for it.

Welcome to the jet, and just so ya know, that question is probably easily answered with a quick google search.

BTW, not a pro, so if someone thinks there is a better way or that I'm totally wrong please let me know. I don't want to give out crap information

[ROC585]

Originally Posted by tysmagic

I want to say, 18 gauge wire or so? I dont know if the cig lighter is constant or not, but that's a possibility. Power wire to the radio, I've heard some people using the power wire to their amp and piggy backing off that. I don't like the idea because I'd assume any time you are messing with your power wire you are losing power as well, at least creating resistance for it.

i usually recommend 16awg or larger for a remote turn on lead. not because it is necessary due to current, but because the larger wire tends to hold better in the terminals on the amp. they make the terminals able to hold a wide range of wire sizes, but when on the small end of the spectrum the wire is way to small and when on the large side it is often a tight squeeze which will cause loose strands of copper. if your amp will accept spade terminals, USE THEM!

as far as having power issues from piggy backing off of the 12v input on the amp, no it won't change anything. most amps have less than 50mA of draw from it's turn on circuit. i still don't recommend that though.

i personally do one of two things. i either make sure the person has a LOC with a signal sensing turn on lead, or i go straight to the battery with 14awg and a toggle switch. obviously make sure to fuse that wire as close to the battery as possible and pass it though to the cabin via the firewall with the use of a grommet.

i like the use of a toggle because it allows you to turn off the amp when you want to and also, when using a factory source, it often allows for a turn off/on pop to come from the sub due to poor timing.

to eliminate that, always remember: amp on last, off first. with a toggle, you can make sure that happens.

[zach92r]

Originally Posted by ROC585

i usually recommend 16awg or larger for a remote turn on lead. not because it is necessary due to current, but because the larger wire tends to hold better in the terminals on the amp. they make the terminals able to hold a wide range of wire sizes, but when on the small end of the spectrum the wire is way to small and when on the large side it is often a tight squeeze which will cause loose strands of copper. if your amp will accept spade terminals, USE THEM!

as far as having power issues from piggy backing off of the 12v input on the amp, no it won't change anything. most amps have less than 50mA of draw from it's turn on circuit. i still don't recommend that though.

i personally do one of two things. i either make sure the person has a LOC with a signal sensing turn on lead, or i go straight to the battery with 14awg and a toggle switch. obviously make sure to fuse that wire as close to the battery as possible and pass it though to the cabin via the firewall with the use of a grommet.

i like the use of a toggle because it allows you to turn off the amp when you want to and also, when using a factory source, it often allows for a turn off/on pop to come from the sub due to poor timing.

to eliminate that, always remember: amp on last, off first. with a toggle, you can make sure that happens.

Actually your incorrect in that if you piggy back a wire off of the headunit depending on how much the amp draws it could "pull" to much current ie power for the wire and cause it to A) short B) blow a fuse or C) catch the wire on fire.

The same principles are used when wiring a car or house wiring, draw to much through a wire of improper size for the draw and you could get hurt. But like you said best idea just run a new wire off the battery the safest idea anyways, make sure the fuse is in a water proof sleeve and also away from any places it could get wet best place put it right beside your intake and wrap it with some water proof tape.

That pop you hear is actually the stored power that was left in the amp when you cut the power, the pop is the power being discharged. But if its grounded like it should be the ground will discharge that stored power and result in no pop when you hit the power on or off. If there is still a pop then thats just because the wires have a slight gap between them and the terminals where electricity is arcing "jumping" from the wire to the terminal.

[stephens]

What year is your car and what head unit do you have? The wiring diagrams are readily available. For example, if you have the blaupunkt cd head unit, there will be a small yellow plug in the back of the head unit intended for the factory sub (whether you have the sub or not, this plug will be there with wires in it). the red/white wire in this plug is for the remote amp turn on.

Here are some threads for you:

http://forums.focaljet.com/ice-car-e...p-install.html

http://forums.focaljet.com/ice-car-e...ub-07-zx3.html

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/s...&threadid=8112

http://www.focusfest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=151335

[ROC585]

Originally Posted by zach92r

Actually your incorrect in that if you piggy back a wire off of the headunit depending on how much the amp draws it could "pull" to much current ie power for the wire and cause it to A) short B) blow a fuse or C) catch the wire on fire.


That pop you hear is actually the stored power that was left in the amp when you cut the power, the pop is the power being discharged. But if its grounded like it should be the ground will discharge that stored power and result in no pop when you hit the power on or off. If there is still a pop then thats just because the wires have a slight gap between them and the terminals where electricity is arcing "jumping" from the wire to the terminal.

1) No. i sort of see what you are getting at, but no. in this situation the turn on circuit for the amp is what pulls the current (in normal situations it will be less than 50mA per amp). regardless, Jumping from the 12v input of the amp shouldn't be done.

2) you need to read more about the causes of turn on pop. you are right about what you said, but those aren't the only reasons why it happens. The most common reason for turn on/off pop is timing between the amp(s) and HU. this is why quality amps made these days have a delayed turn on. this is also why old school amps or cheaply made amps often run into this problem no matter what you do.

[tysmagic]

I also agree that the remote wire is not going to cause that kind of problem. However we don't know what the OP was planning on doing, idk if he just never checked back or what.
Thought the pop was partly due to the sudden flick of power?

[ROC585]

pop can be due to a few different things.

many times it has to do with a poor ground, a cheaply made amplifier, poor termination or a combination.

in this situation (factory signal source), pop is more likely to come about due to timing of when the amplifier shuts off since it is not controlled by the source.