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| Interior Modifications Seats, shifters and knobs, gauges, etc. |
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#26 (permalink) |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 111
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Just a quick ?. I tried painting mine and the paint runs down and causes like bubbles or whatever on the bottom edges of everything mainly the shifter bezel? What can I do to fix this.
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#27 (permalink) |
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Senior TEAM Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 1,042
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you need to resand and paint it again. it sounds like you are spraying too much paint at one time. you have to use light coats and be patient before spraying the next coat.
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#28 (permalink) |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Hollywood, Florida
Posts: 744
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Dude, it looks nice but that's a lot of materials need it to get the job done. I'm doing my interior and I used 600 sand paper, spray gun, and a good cleaner. You can see some of my pictures here http://www.focusfanatics.com/gallery...mp;ppuser=3881 I think you have to sign in to see the pictures!
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#29 (permalink) |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Another World
Posts: 103
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Well, I just rattle-canned my new center consol w/out the arm rest and i must say I think it looks pretty damn good. Course I sprayed about 10 lightass coats and then finished with the clear coat. I like it though. I was impatient in installing it and didn't let it air out more than a day though. So, now my car smells a bit of the fumes... its been nice out though, so I've been keepin the windows open
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#31 (permalink) |
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Senior TEAM Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kansas City, 66205
Posts: 2,283
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Why are you wanting to remove the paint? You'll have to use laquer thinner for sure and may have to use acetone. I can tell you this, some of those parts aren't going to look pretty if you strip the paint off them. You will never get the same shine out of any of the plastic if you take the paint off, and may ruin them if you let the solvent sit on them too long...
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#35 (permalink) |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: davenport, iowa
Posts: 388
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question for blox - instead of using the bulldog could i just go ahead and use the plastic additive that i mixed with the base coat when i painted my side moldings and just add that to the base coat?
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#36 (permalink) |
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Senior TEAM Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kansas City, 66205
Posts: 2,283
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You should be able to...it sounds like an adhesion promoter. I just reference Bulldog cause its available in cans and basically any auto parts store and walmart...
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#38 (permalink) |
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Rookie
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Tha 816 - Kansas City, MO
Posts: 43
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Well I'll just tell u how good Blox does on his work.... He did a great job on my car it looks good. Havent had a problem one. So about your car at the G2G. It was a said day bro. Holla at ya Bos.
Charles 888 |
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#39 (permalink) |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Billerica,Mass
Posts: 964
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just wondering about u guys and what u did for paint. A guy told me to go to this autobody paint suplier and they would mix the color of my car and put it in spray cans. I did. i think it was like 35 for the quart and 1 spray can then it was 5 for every spray can after. i think it filled 5 spray cans. cant rmeber it was a while back but it came out pissa!!! wondering if thats how u guys did it?
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#40 (permalink) |
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Senior TEAM Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kansas City, 66205
Posts: 2,283
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I spray mine in an HVLP gun..no more cans for me...Its cheaper in the long run to do it like that. 5 cans at 5 bucks a pop and you are halfway to an HVLP gun that will get the job done for little projects. I have picked up a couple on e-bay for like 60 bucks max, and they work great for interior jobs and are a good gun to learn on...
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#41 (permalink) |
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[FJ] Specialist
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,610
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I'm planning on purchasing my totalled Focus back from the insurance company and keeping it in my garage to work on the interior. My goal is to get everything on the inside of the car flat black. I've already decided I will not be painting the interior, but having a professional body shop do it. I do, howeever, want to do all the prep work. I've been told by many that the dashboard is made out of plastic, then covered in a vinyl sheet or something. This vinyl sheet adds that textured appearance I've grown to hate. What is the best method to removing the vinyl so I can have a somewhat smooth surface to work with? Does it have to be sanded off or can it be peeled off? Anything? I assume it will be the same process for to the door too, right?
Also, what about the texture on the passenger side airbag? Is there anything I can do to make that smooth and paintible or am I going to have to buy the pocket/airbag remover thing? |
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#42 (permalink) |
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Senior TEAM Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kansas City, 66205
Posts: 2,283
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Well since you are in no hurry to get something like that done and back in the car, here is what I would do. Get a DA-dual action air sander- and get about a 60 grit paper or something rough like that and sand the hell out of it. Get it as smooth as you can and then lay down some of the cloth used to do speaker boxes, I think fleece normallt works ok. Then cover the thing in in fiberglass resin. That will fill any of the texture you have left. Then all you have to do is use some putty filler-I like Rage, it comes in a pink can, 9.99 for a quart, fill and skim as needed and then sand it smooth and prime it. Then all you have to do is paint and you are done...Thats how I would do it if I had no time crunch...Paint it yourself man, you'll feel better about not spending an insane overpriced amount to have the body shop do it...
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#43 (permalink) |
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[FJ] Specialist
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,610
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OK, I don't have air tools yet, but it sounds like now is the time for me to invest in a system. If I do get a compressor, I guess that means I can get a gun to paint it myself
![]() I've never used or even have a clue on how to use fiberglass. Honestly, I don't even really know how you make the stuff. Is this a time to learn? Are the results going to be much different if I get the plastic smooth as hell, put some bulldog on it, prime it and spray it? If I do go ahead and do it, are there some instructional websites I can glance at about the process? How many hours am I looking at if I do the entire interior this way? 100 hours maybe? |
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#46 (permalink) |
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Senior TEAM Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: West Granby, CT
Posts: 3,809
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I used krylon fusion on my whole interior. If you do it right with temp, and super light coats it comes out nice. I will post some pics when i take some more interior shots
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#47 (permalink) |
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Senior TEAM Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: West Palm Beach, Fl
Posts: 1,032
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yep krylon fusion is what I used. I didn't want to start a new post and get crap about it so this is the best post i could find. I believe its in the how to's but not stickied.
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#48 (permalink) |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 456
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using rattle can paint will be OK for awile IF prepped right, the key is Prepping it right, like a famouse custom painter once said, you cant build a nice house on a swamp, which means you can't get a nice quality finish from a badly preped surface! Follow the step blox has set up, I can not stress enough how important adhesion promoter is.
Using automotive paints will give it that show look an durability for years, you can get a good detail HVLP gun from www.harborfreight.com with a relitvly low CFM req. for around 50 bucks, once you go urathane you'll never go back! If anyone has any questions just PM me or email me at adam@custompaintworksonline.com and I can walk you through it |
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#49 (permalink) |
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Senior TEAM Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: toronto, on
Posts: 4,176
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wetsanding on clearcoat isn't necessary..
there is product used to do very easily. scratch remover thing.. i painted on the hatch strip too and color matches pretty well. here is pic
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#50 (permalink) | |
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[FJ] Special Ed.
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: West Van, BC, Canada
Posts: 9,192
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Quote:
nicely done, accents are done perfectly. |
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