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| LCRacing Spec Focus and Ford Racing Performance Parts
www.capaldiracing.com |
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#1 (permalink) |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Richmond, MI
Posts: 120
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RS WING DRILLING/MOUNTING GUIDE
1) FROM THE BACKSIDE OF THE HATCH, LOCATE EXISTING HOLE AND DRILL A 1/8” PILOT HOLE PERPENDICULAR TO EXISTING SURFACE. ![]() 2) USING A 7/8” HOLE SAW, USE YOUR PILOT HOLE FOR ALIGNMENT AND DRILL FROM THE OUT SIDE OF HATCH ONCE AGAIN MAKING SURE TO BE PERPENDICULAR TO THE INSIDE SURFACE ONLY DRILLING THROUGH OUTSIDE LAYER (DO NOT DRILL ALL THE WAY THROUGH BOTH LAYERS).
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2007 & 2008 Spec Focus National Champion Last edited by 68 Touring Car; 01-17-2009 at 09:44 AM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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NA Zetec Driver //// Where Bolt ons + Cams = 120whp
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Marysville, MI
Posts: 4,375
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awesome Craig, i was trying to spell it out to Brian but i wasnt do a very good job
these pics will help alot thanks again
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Proud member of the 150k+ mile club 2001 zx3 crower stg3 cams/FC race header/2.5in exhaust/intake/tune/all poly mounts/H&R RACE springs/Koni sport yellow dampers/SVT RSB/CM stg3 clutch/CM lightweight flywheel/Torsen T2 LSD/SVT front and rear bumper/SVT grill and headlights /RS Wing/AEM UEGO |
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#4 (permalink) |
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NA Zetec Driver //// Where Bolt ons + Cams = 120whp
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Marysville, MI
Posts: 4,375
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i went to the hardware store today and checked out what parts you will need to mount this wing.
so far all it seems is 2 M6 *16 hex head to mount it to the hatch and 2 M6 *10-12 phillips head to mount the light to the wing. all bolts are standard pitch of 1.00. shouldnt be more then 2 dollars.
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Proud member of the 150k+ mile club 2001 zx3 crower stg3 cams/FC race header/2.5in exhaust/intake/tune/all poly mounts/H&R RACE springs/Koni sport yellow dampers/SVT RSB/CM stg3 clutch/CM lightweight flywheel/Torsen T2 LSD/SVT front and rear bumper/SVT grill and headlights /RS Wing/AEM UEGO |
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#5 (permalink) |
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[FJ] Addict
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Uniontown, PA
Posts: 15,364
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I'm very very excited to see finished results of yours, CJ. I'll have to be sure to print out those specs to take to my local mom and pop hardware store when it comes time to install mine so that I'll have everything I need
![]() -Brian
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Godspeed, Colin McRae, may you live on forever as the reason countless people fell in love with the Ford Focus (myself included). 1968-2007 '08 Carbon Grey Metallic Hyundai Tuscani GT V6 Early '00 ZX3 - E-spec in progress (Rattletrap) - Gone but not forgotten! |
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#6 (permalink) |
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NA Zetec Driver //// Where Bolt ons + Cams = 120whp
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Marysville, MI
Posts: 4,375
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ill hopefully have absolute results later this week
also, Craig, ill try and get some measurements and more pictures when i do my install.
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Proud member of the 150k+ mile club 2001 zx3 crower stg3 cams/FC race header/2.5in exhaust/intake/tune/all poly mounts/H&R RACE springs/Koni sport yellow dampers/SVT RSB/CM stg3 clutch/CM lightweight flywheel/Torsen T2 LSD/SVT front and rear bumper/SVT grill and headlights /RS Wing/AEM UEGO |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Senior TEAM Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Nassau, Bahamas
Posts: 2,702
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I tried mounting my wing over the weekend and mine has a gap in the center of the wing. I tried using some 3m double-sided tape but the gap is too big and the tape won't hold it. Anyone else have this problem?
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2000 Focus ZX3: Xios Turbo Kit on Built Motor in Progress!! Last edited by IslandFocus; 02-10-2009 at 07:40 PM. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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MS Paint PWNS ME!
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Jax FL
Posts: 3,203
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Mine has that exact problem.....3m tape did nothing for me either. I've just accepted it as something that's gonna be there....
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2002 SVT Focus #3658 CD Silver with Red Inserts born on 7-30-2002 | SVT3658 here, 02SilverSVT over there... Join the SVT Owners Group! |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Resident Wheel-Whore
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: mnfocus.com
Posts: 11,153
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Were the holes drilled too close together?
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TUNED By FSWerks -- Parts by TOUSLEY Ford ~~BOOST CREW, Bottled Fresh since 2006 ~~ Vacuum Crew, Stirring things up since 2008~~ |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Senior TEAM Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Cary, NC
Posts: 1,929
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Mine has a little bit of a gap, but nothing that big..everything is sealed up real good so it's no big deal.
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JCM Racing #316 2005 Sonic Blue ZX3 K&N Typhoon CAI, FS exhaust, F2 V3 header, ST200 whels with BFG G-Force Super Sports (215/45/17), SVT rear bumper, KYB AGX struts with Goldline springs, Progress 22mm swaybar, FC strut bar, RS wing, ventvisors, rear seat delete kit, interior upgrades |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Senior TEAM Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: San Luis Obispo, CA
Posts: 1,785
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I went to a few body shops and they have said that I should be able to install this with double sided tape alone. Anybody see a problem with this?
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#13 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Kodiak, AK
Posts: 69
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I'm against the tape alone idea. I want to know that, that baby is on there...tape not so much. I know I know 3M is good stuff, but I don't want to find out how good and have Billy Bob roll over it in his mud bogger behind me.
I've decided to make my own template out of cardborad and drill from there. This link was helpful also. http://focus-illusions.com/forum/vie...er=asc&start=0
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~Still plays with cars~ |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Rhody
Posts: 93
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When you guys installed your rs wing did you remove the tailgate? I ask this question because I was looking at it last night and it seemed like that was the only way to get the holes drilled in the right spot.
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#15 (permalink) |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Whitmore Lake, MI
Posts: 200
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I just installed my RS wing (A big thank you to Leo Capaldi Racing) and will add some comments, pictures and suggestions to this thread.
The first step was removing the SVT wing. There are two nuts holding it on plus some double stick tape. The nuts were no problem but the tape was a bioach. I used adhesive remover and my wife's hair dryer to remove the tape. I used wood shims to avoid scratching the hatch. ![]() ![]() ![]() After I cleaned up all the goo.. ![]() I then marked the holes that needed to be drilled from the first page of this thread. I used a spring loaded center punch to make a dimple. I then marked the other side of the hatch for the pilot hole because you are working on a slanted surface and it is hard to start the hole as the bit slides around. ![]() ![]() I then used the 7/8 inch hole saw as seen on the first page of this thread. I caution you here as the last thing you want to do is trash your hatch. The hole itself does not have to be that "precision." So if you start the cut with the hole saw, you can finish it with a tin snips. It ain't pretty, but it will work. I painted the edges of the cut to prevent rust. ![]() Mounting the block off plate was not bad. However, you need to take the pins out of the tailight connector to thread the wire through the plate. You have to remove the pin lock, then the pins. Once the lock is out, you have to go in on top of the pins to release them. There is a tab and yes it is small. Remember to mark the wires so they are inserted in to the correct pin location. ![]() ![]() ![]() Here is the wing flipped over waiting to be installed. Hook up the brake light wires and be sure and connect the washer hose to the nozzle otherwise you will be squirting inside the hatch!! When tightening up the bolts I applied pressure to reduce the gap from the hatch to the wing as shown in previous posts. When done, I had no gap. I also applied double stick tape about an inch behind the leading edge of the wing. I am not sure if it is even sticking, but it seemed like the right thing to do. I am considering getting some clear silicone sealer to seal the edge so water doen't go under the wing. Finished!!
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