*Massive Competition Series Front Stress Bar - 08+ Focus*

[K STYLEZ]

After much anticipation we have released our NEW '08+ Focus front strut tower braces.

This is a great way to add some rigidity to the front end of your Focus. Adds some MAJOR under hood excitement as well.

Here is what we have to say about them:

The Focus has always had a reputation as a fun to drive, decent handling car right from Ford. However, under hard core driving situations, more chassis rigidity is necessary. Tying the top of the vehicle's strut towers together, decreases deflection under load, improves steering response and results in superior weight transfer in corners.

Massive Competition Series front strut tower braces are meant for more than just beauty - they feature big 12 gauge mandrel bent steel tubing and heavy duty mounting flanges for the ultimate in strength (others are using dinky 14 gauge tube!!!). This far more solid construction has earned it the "competition" name.


Simple install in less than 15 minutes with basic hand tools. Quality made in the USA. Comes with premium thickness powder coating for long lasting service in your choice of Black, Red, Metallic Silver and Purple Limited. Brushed aluminum vinyl Massive logo so people will know you use the best.

From $99-109.





Find 'em Here

[K STYLEZ]

Here is an installed pic on ZX505 (Chris') '08 Coupe. Looked AWESOME!

Has uber-rare holographic Massive Vinyl installed though.

[trailbikerider]

Looks good!

[focusZX505]

love it man love it glad to help with the making of it

[FocusITA]

Did you/Do you need to re-route the AC lines that run by the passenger side tower?? It doesn't look like it in the picture but I can't really tell.

[K STYLEZ]

Nope

[FocusITA]

That's great news!! I've seen other stress bars that require the re-routing of the AC lines. What do you recommend for torque specs when reusing the old nut?? 12pounds maybe? I know those are somewhat fragile bolts.

[K STYLEZ]

A torque spec is somewhat useless on that connection. The nuts are oblong to resist vibrational loosening. So a torque reading wouldnt really be correct. I just get them "goodntight" by HAND - NOT an impact.

[bryst06]

IIRC.... its 16lbs according to the workshop manual, but need to confirm that.

[ZX3autoxtasy]

Don't even use a torque wrench.

Just tighten them a bit with a normal wrench. I would go so far as to not say to make them "tight" in the sense you would other bolts. Snug them down, give it a few turns, and leave it at that.

I snapped one off using more torque wrench and it was a bitch to fix. The stupid wrench hadn't even registered it that much and broke it.

Never again.

[bryst06]

well they should be Tq'ed to spec. Im away from my workshop manual but

How was it a bitch to fix.. just have to get a new top cap which are cheap..

But again TQ them to factory spec is the only way I would do it. WHY guess when and if you know the spec just do it RIGHT

[ZX3autoxtasy]

Originally Posted by bryst06

well they should be Tq'ed to spec. Im away from my workshop manual but

How was it a bitch to fix.. just have to get a new top cap which are cheap..

But again TQ them to factory spec is the only way I would do it. WHY guess when and if you know the spec just do it RIGHT

... do you mean the 3 brass bolts on the top?

It was a bitch to fix because I had to take the strut out again, compress the spring, and replace it with a new top-hat for the coilover... which was almost $40 from the dealer. I can do it fast... but if you've ever tried sourcing a new strut top-hat at 5pm on a Saturday night, it sucks.

I say don't bother with the torque spec on the 3 brass screws because like I think (massive) already said: all they do is keep it from popping down. You'd have to be getting air in the car to make the nuts actually do work. It's important they are kinda tight, but really, them just coming through is doing most of the work. You could probably take all the nuts off the screws and drive around and I doubt you'd notice much.

I say just make them slightly tight, because honestly, unless you have a torque wrench that is measuring in inch/lbs... most torque wrenches don't do a great job at measuring low ft/lbs. I set my Craftsman to 16ft/lbs and it started to read at about 10ft/lbs and then snapped the brass screw in half.

Just tighten them a bit and be done with it. Trust me. It's absolutely, 100% not worth it when one breaks in half on you.

I considered throwing my torque wrench as far as I could down my driveway when it happened.

[bryst06]

Plain and simple: Every bolt, screw, nut and clip have a procedure to be installed and properly attached. This is critical when assembling anything to follow the systems and procedures. 100% present and do it with integrity.

When your car was built did they call for it to be done (Just tighten it down a bit).. NO. They followed procedure and tightened the bolts, screws, nuts, and clips to SPEC

Sorry if your tool FAILED you!

[ZX3autoxtasy]

Originally Posted by bryst06

Plain and simple: Every bolt, screw, nut and clip have a procedure to be installed and properly attached. This is critical when assembling anything to follow the systems and procedures. 100% present and do it with integrity.

When your car was built did they call for it to be done (Just tighten it down a bit).. NO. They followed procedure and tightened the bolts, screws, nuts, and clips to SPEC

Sorry if your tool FAILED you!

I don't need a speech on it. Every bolt on my car is to spec... except for this one. I think its funny that you'll bitch about it even though the bolt does almost nothing at all.

Have it at.

All I'm gonna say is "I told you so" when the brass bolt breaks. Go loosen yours up and then tighten it down and let me know how it goes with your torque wrench. It'll break after you do it a few times.

[bryst06]

I will let you know how it works out and I wont be FAILED by my tools.