Power lock switches don't light up

[Hal]

Blazing Copper: I used you directions to do the lock LED's on my 2001 sedan. The directions worked just fine for the passenger side except that I didn't have a solid green wire. But I found a green with a white stripe that worked just fine.

However the drivers side is a different story. The sedan window switch has switches for all four windows and also a switch to disable the rear window switches.

Has anyone got a pinout for the sedan drivers side window switch?

[orionlion82]

Blazing Copper: I used you directions to do the lock LED's on my 2001 sedan. The directions worked just fine for the passenger side except that I didn't have a solid green wire. But I found a green with a white stripe that worked just fine.

However the drivers side is a different story. The sedan window switch has switches for all four windows and also a switch to disable the rear window switches.

Has anyone got a pinout for the sedan drivers side window switch?

i could get them as early as this weekend for an 06.
cant do it right now, im runnin ragged.

[Hal]

i could get them as early as this weekend for an 06.
cant do it right now, im runnin ragged.

Thanks, that would help. I used the black wire on the window lock switch for ground but if I try to use any of the other wire on the window lock for positive it seems to disable my window lock.

Maybe my window lock just doesn't work? This is the first time I have tried it in the 6 years I have owned the car!

[o2_designs]

umm, totally forgot about this. I'll have to do this after swapping colors...

[BlazingCopper_ZX3]

Blazing Copper: I used you directions to do the lock LED's on my 2001 sedan. The directions worked just fine for the passenger side except that I didn't have a solid green wire. But I found a green with a white stripe that worked just fine.

However the drivers side is a different story. The sedan window switch has switches for all four windows and also a switch to disable the rear window switches.

Has anyone got a pinout for the sedan drivers side window switch?

I don't have access to a sedan but you should be able to probe around with a volt meter or one of those probes with a light in them to look for powered connections on your switches.

[orionlion82]

im looking at this - this afternoon. ill let you know.

[orionlion82]

Okay i have a solid black and three greens with various stripes. two orange stripes and a purple/blue no solid greens here either.

these were the thick wires down at the bottom of the window switches... on the smaller connector.

i couldnt read anything across any of them with my multimeter either- none- i gots zero volts?

it seems they arent powered, but perhaps some sort of a data connection? with big beefy wires like that? to tell the computer to open the window or something?

how the hell does ford have all those wires in there and still manage to use a switch where theres no hot circuts? - yet it somehow works?

i dunno, anyways the LED worked, i tested it and sure enough, its green. just for hookin it in though is the problem -

my wireing harness for the windows is two connectors and two bundles of wire. you would think they could get away with 9 or 10 wires, but noooooo!

this is ford... theres enough wires to independantly switch every bulb in times square jammed up in there... i think its closer to 20 wires.

i cant say the illustration is wrong, but it dosnt illustrate what im getting into at all.

again, no luck.

[screwdiver]

Okay i have a solid black and three greens with various stripes. two orange stripes and a purple/blue no solid greens here either.

these were the thick wires down at the bottom of the window switches... on the smaller connector.

i couldnt read anything across any of them with my multimeter either- none- i gots zero volts?

it seems they arent powered, but perhaps some sort of a data connection? with big beefy wires like that? to tell the computer to open the window or something?

how the hell does ford have all those wires in there and still manage to use a switch where theres no hot circuts? - yet it somehow works?

i dunno, anyways the LED worked, i tested it and sure enough, its green. just for hookin it in though is the problem -

my wireing harness for the windows is two connectors and two bundles of wire. you would think they could get away with 9 or 10 wires, but noooooo!

this is ford... theres enough wires to independantly switch every bulb in times square jammed up in there... i think its closer to 20 wires.

i cant say the illustration is wrong, but it dosnt illustrate what im getting into at all.

again, no luck.

Those are for the window switches? Was the car on?

[orionlion82]

Those are for the window switches? Was the car on?

what are for the window switches? car on what?

[screwdiver]

The harness you speak of that you're trying to tap. You had no power...was the ignition switch turned to position 3 or was the car running?

[orionlion82]

The harness you speak of that you're trying to tap. You had no power...was the ignition switch turned to position 3 or was the car running?

aww, crap. i think i see what happaned

[screwdiver]

aww, crap. i think i see what happaned

So the car wasn't on when you tested with the mutimeter?

[orionlion82]

So the car wasn't on when you tested with the mutimeter?

nope. that would probably explain why i wasnt getting anything, huh?

im smart like that sometimes.

ill have to get into it again next weekend if ive got the time.

[Hal]

Okay i have a solid black and three greens with various stripes. two orange stripes and a purple/blue no solid greens here either.

these were the thick wires down at the bottom of the window switches... on the smaller connector.

Those four wires are for the window lock switch (so you can keep the kiddies from playing with the rear windows). It is a seperate switch from the window switches themselves.

Since I didn't have a lot of time to work on it after figuring out the passenger side, I assumed that the black was ground and found a wire that was hot when the key was on.

Only problem is that now my window lock doesn't lock. Since I have never used it in the 6years I have had the car I'm not sure if it is my wiring or the switch. But the door lock lights work no matter which way I have the window lock switch.

[orionlion82]

Those four wires are for the window lock switch (so you can keep the kiddies from playing with the rear windows). It is a seperate switch from the window switches themselves.

Since I didn't have a lot of time to work on it after figuring out the passenger side, I assumed that the black was ground and found a wire that was hot when the key was on.

Only problem is that now my window lock doesn't lock. Since I have never used it in the 6years I have had the car I'm not sure if it is my wiring or the switch. But the door lock lights work no matter which way I have the window lock switch.

okay, i think i see whats happening.
the window lock switch COMPLETES the circuit.

so does the ground.


in other words OPEN curcuit (no path) means windows locked.

anything less (tapped with a load) means windows free.
he need to find other hots in the door to make this work without comprimising the window lock feature...

i have a feeling the computer has something to do with it.

any resistance at all comprimises the window lock function.

ALLSO its a safe bet the driver controls (4 masters) have 2 hots (one for up and one for down) and then a negative.

UNELSS (in other words the OR logic)
the window switches have one positive and 2 negatives.
((the one tuch feature is undefined so far)

bottom line is we HAVE a negative. (is it switched other than by IGN?)

we need to get a POSITIVE that does not screw things up
- as far as i know anyway. they could be SWITCHING TH NEG AS IN THE DOMELIGHT so who knows, and watch out.

damn the euro electricals!