Quote:
He's alive!!!
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Reports of my demise have been greatly exagerated.
More tech on having better, stronger, longer lasting nuts:
<ul type="square">[*]The thread pitch is M22-1.5. [*]The nut I use is from the rear of an NB Miata and the front of most every 1990's FWD Mazda. This includes the Millenia - a car that is much heavier and more powerful than the average Focus so I am confident this fastener is up to the job.[*]If you have Ford connections (Gary), just get one from a Probe.[*]If you have aftermarket connections, it is a Dorman 615-097. Activant, WrenchHead,
et al can interchange for you from there if you carry another line.[*]If you have a hub or bearing to replace and are removing an original nut, you
must chase the CV snout threads. If the bearing failed due to a weakened nut, it will chew up your threads when you remove it. Fortunately, an M22-1.5 thread chasing die is easy to find as it is a common pitch for air conditioning hose ends and most automotive tool places will have that die in the A/C service section. [*]Support the CV snout by putting the inboard, un-threaded portion on a jack stand (curved axle type saddle is best) and C-clamping them together. Then, and only then, take an angle grinder turned sideways and cut a nice slice into the threads. Look at a Honda or Mazda to see what size and depth groove you need. Needless to say, post grinder etiquette involves the thread chasing die.[*]When bending down the locking collar, you want to use a rounded end punch. Do not use a screwdriver or pointed punch as they can cut through the collar and render it both less effective and more difficult to remove.[/list]You too can have reliable nuts that are the envy of other track going Focus owners. Furthermore, you will find that your nuts are excellent conversation starters and a nice ice-breaker for a discussion about general on-track durability topics.