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| Shift It MTX-75, Automagic and SVTF Getrag transmission junkies get your fix here. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 349
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So, I found it a little difficult to find the information that is needed to swap out the Automatic Tranny to a MTX-75. This thread is for people to use who want to do the swap.
All Cost that I have listed are what I paid for them, that doesn't mean that it is the best price out there. I know for a fact that on some of the parts, if you can find them at a junk yard, you can save a lot of money. If you can find a wrecked Foci at a junk yard, you will be all set. Please add any information that I have forgoten or missed. Thanks. Parts Needed: MTX-75 Tranny ($300) Drive Shafts ($150) Passenger Side Axle Mount ($50)* Upper Tranny Mount (?) [Mine came on the tranny] Rear Tranny Mount (?) This is the mount on the transmission, not the sub-frame [Mine cam on the tranny] Clutch/Brake Fluid Reservoir, with lines ($25) Clutch/Brake Pedal ($125) Clutch Master Cylinder ($50) Clutch Line from Master to Slave Cylinder ($20) Slave Cylinder (?)[I upgraded mine, but there was one on the tranny] Clutch (?)[I upgraded] Flywheel (?)[I upgraded] Clutch Pedal Posistion Sensor ($10)* Crank Posistion Sensor ($10)* Shift Cables ($50) Shift Assembly ($100)* Starter ($25) O2 Wire Harness ($75) The above are a for sure thing. You need all of these parts to change the tranny. Parts May or May not be needed: Main Wire Harness PCM ($50) The above parts I haven't gotten far enough to know for sure if you absolutly need. You can change them and it will work, but I am not sure yet if you need to change them for sure. You should be able to just plug the O2 Wire Harness into the existing Main Wire Harness and splice the additional wires over to it. The PCM is another piece that I am not sure on. I have the new PCM, but I don't want to tow my car to the dealership to have the PATS reprogrammed (thats the little diode in your key). I am think that if the car will start with the old PCM, I will drive the car down, swap the PCMs and then have them reprogram the PATS. Again, I am still waiting on a few parts to get in before I can finish the swap. Then we will see about the wiring. Once I get it done, I will finish this write up on how to physically do the swap. It really isn't that difficult. If you have already completed this swap, please feel free to correct me in any of the above information. Thanks. Patrick |
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#2 (permalink) |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 349
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I have said it more than once and I will say it again. The hardest part of this swap is gathering all the parts that are necessary to complete the swap. The easiest way to accomplish this is to find a wreck Foci that hasn’t been torn apart yet. If you are even considering doing this swap, it could be beneficial to call to all the junkyards in your area and tell them that you would like to know if they get a wrecked Focus in before they start hacking it apart. Anyone who has had experience with junkyards knows that they get the parts they want out of the car the easiest way. The easiest way is to do a slice and dice on the car. If you can not find a wrecked Focus, the junkyards are still your friends. They should have the major stuff that you will need. Anything else that you need, I recommend getting them from Steve (FORDSVTPARTS).
On with the swap…… Personally, I was doing some other engine upgrades (FR HEAD, CAT CAMS, and UDP) so I pulled the entire engine/tranny together. This is not in any way a requirement, but it definitely made the job a lot easier. I personally don’t recommend pulling the engine if you don’t have anything else that you need to do. Dropping the tranny is not difficult if you have the right tools i.e. tranny jack. Once you get the tranny out, you can begin. This write up is not in chronological order. It doesn’t matter if you start inside or outside. It doesn’t mater if you start with the shift assembly or the pedal assembly. You can do it anyway you want with the exception of the obvious things. I.E. You can not put the clutch on until you install the flywheel. You can not remove the shift cable before you remove the grommet from the floor. Of course, if you thought you could, you probably should not be touching a car. Also, I did this write up with assumption that you have a Chilton’s, Hayes, or Ford Service Manual. I don’t think it is necessary to describe how to remove your transmission as the books are going to be a lot more detailed than I ever will be. I did add some descriptions that I found either a little confusing, or was a just a PITA! Inside Car…………… 1. Remove Handle on Shift Assembly 2. Remove Center Console. 3. Remove Heating duct (this is under the Center Console 4. Remove Lower Center Dash Panel 5. On the Heater box, remove the sides. Remove from car. 6. Unhook shift cable from shift assembly 7. Remove Shift Assembly. Including unplugging all electronics from shift assembly 8. According to Chilton’s/Hayes Manuals, they say to pull back carpet and insulation to reach the shift cable grommet. I did not see anyway to do this, so I just cut the insulation to get to the grommet. 9. Remove two screws from grommet. 10. In the engine bay, unclip shift cable from bracket. 11. Remove heat shield above the flex pipe. 12. Pull cable through the inside of the car. 13. Run New Shift Cable from inside of the car. Ensuring that the cables are the right way. The tranny side has covers over the actual wires. Also, make sure that you route the cables the same why the old cable was routed. 14. Screw the grommet back down; replace heat shield, insulation and carpet. 15. Install new Shift Assembly, attach cables. 16. Remove Brake Pedal 17. To the left of the Brake Pedal, you will see in the insulation an oblong cut out. It is serrated, so you will have to cut/rip it off. Underneath it, you will see a plastic plug. (If you had a stereo system installed, mainly if you are running amps, the installer may have routed your power cable at this location. You will need to reroute any cables that may run through this spot) 18. On the Inside of the engine bay, you will need to unscrew the bolt holding the plastic piece in to remove the piece. 19. I found it easier to bolt the Clutch Master Cylinder to the clutch pedals before installation. 20. Install Clutch Master Cylinder/Clutch/Brake pedal assembly. (Four nuts on the pedals and one metal clip for the master cylinder. 21. Reinstall all consoles and dash panels. 22. Reinstall the Heat Shield above the Flex Pipe *I have not finished the wiring portion of the swap, so you might want to wait on reinstalling all the panels. Inside the Engine Bay. 1. Remove Starter if not already done. 2. Replace Crank Position Sensor. 3. Replace Clutch/Brake Fluid Reservoir (ensuring that you take the necessary precautions to avoid the fluid from going everywhere. Brake Fluid is not a good thing to have floating around wherever it wants to go. 4. Hook up the line running to the Brake Master cylinder. 5. Hook up the line running to the Clutch Master cylinder. This line goes on the top. 6. Run the line from the bottom of the Clutch Master cylinder to the Slave cylinder. (You will not be able to hook up the Slave cylinder line until you put the tranny back in. 7. Replace the bracket that holds your half shaft (passenger side) to the engine block. 8. Remove Tranny fluid cooler (Behind the radiator. You will need to remove the radiator to accomplish this. 9. Remove flex plate (Also known as a pressure plate or an automatic transmission Flywheel) from engine. 10. Install New Flywheel. They say only to reuse the bolts twice, I just replaced mine altogether. It was like $8 for all the bolts from the dealership (HINT- Go Through Steve) 11. Install Clutch. The six bolts for the clutch cover were $5.06 a piece from the Dealership (HINT- GO THROUGH STEVE) 12. Install Slave cylinder in bell housing of tranny (If Needed) 13. Reinstall Tranny. 14. Do all the wiring*******I haven’t finished this part yet, so I will let you know******** 15. Install New Drive shafts (There is confusion on this because Kragen/Shucks/Checkers, whatever you have around you, say that the drive shafts are the same. Ford disagrees and says they are different.) 16. Install any other part that has been removed. And one more time, I do not have the wiring done so that is not in the write up yet. I will add it on a separate post as it may end up being a PITA! If you see something wrong with this, please let me know. If you see something that should be more fully described, let me know. My goal is to get the information to the people that are interested in doing this swap. Believe it or not, sometimes it is just not feasible or possible to just trade the car in. If you have any questions feel free to ask. Thanks |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Rookie
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: orange county
Posts: 48
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my question is...with a chiltens and a ford service manual, would you recommend doing this swap to a pretty much novice when it comes to servicing a car... i may not know much but what i lack in experience i make up for in drive and relentlessness....
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#4 (permalink) |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 349
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I think that I am in the asme boat as you. I am diffently no master mechanic in any way. I find that most things you can do that are in the manuals, the only thing is, it may take you alot longer than an experience machanic, but you should be able to do it. If you can follow instructions and can use your imagination for some creativity when the manuals are little unclear, you should be ok. Of course there will be somethings that you just can't do. For example, I can not get my damn driveshafts out of the hub. I don't know if it is me or the damn things are just stuck in there, but I am having a mobile mechanic coming over to remove them for me. $50 hour is not to bad when they come to you.
I pretty much live on this forum, so I respond to post pretty quickly if you were to have a problem. If you are as stubborn as I am you should just do it. |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Devil's Advocate. Just to cheese you off.
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: In ur srvrz patchin ur krnlz
Posts: 24,445
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Quote:
I'd at least get some experienced friends to help. Also, keep in mind that an auto-to-manual swap won't really net you that much performance, and that going to a built automatic transmission such as a Lentech might be a more logical choice. I still woulnd't recommend doing that swap to a DIYer without some experience. |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 349
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Quote:
I don't want to start some type of fight with you, I just would like know where you get your conclusions? |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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[FJ] Addict
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: (Jason) Irving, TX
Posts: 13,605
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#9 (permalink) |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 349
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I think this is still staying on topic. "The morality of swapping to a Manual Tranny" I completly aggree with JPTECH2004, a Lentech will cost over $3000. Yes you can beef it up with a valve body and new torque converter, but just those right there put you around the same price or more than the swap
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#10 (permalink) |
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Rookie
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: orange county
Posts: 48
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i am going to do the complete swap...there are significant gains in power between the two...i got access to a mechanic to help with the swap for free, so i think i am gonna be in good hands...
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#11 (permalink) |
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Devil's Advocate. Just to cheese you off.
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: In ur srvrz patchin ur krnlz
Posts: 24,445
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By "not that much performance increase" I mean that 7-10 HP is a hell of a lot cheaper to come by with an I/H/E, or a Chip alone. It looks like this swap will run you close to $2K once you count all the nickel and dime parts, paying for services like towing, breaking axle nuts loose, PATS reprogramming, and the like.
I know our autotragics don't hold up to a lot of abuse, but if you look around, the 5 speeds aren't without their problems. As a lover of manuals and a hater of autos, though, I still don't see how it's practical. Possible, yes, but unless your car is 100% paid off and 100% out of warranty, and you have a few weeks to sit around and figure it out and get the parts that you need, I don't see how it's practical. Now, all that said, I respect the time, effort, and research you're putting into this. As "The FocusHacks Guy", I can tell you're into tweaking stuff and circumventing limitations that most other people would just accept as the way of things. My reply was mainly for the guy who says he isn't all that great of a mechanic. This swap is most certainly not for everyone. If your car is 2000-2002, could probably sell your Focus and find one almost exactly like it with a 5 speed, used, and it would cost you less money. In the end, I see this as another pipedream that many people will ponder and stew over, a few will attempt it and succeed, some will attempt it and break something. It's like the honda owners that say they're gonna drop an H22 into their 1979 accord, or the people who see the V8 Focus videos and say they're going to build one too. You're far enough along that I'm sure you'll complete the process, and others who have been around a long time and know their stuff, like jptech perhaps, might also pull it off in the future, but in the meantime, I can't see stringing along dozens of automatic-driving meeeetoooo fanboys with clutch-foot syndrome. It's not going to be as easy as it looks, guys. This definitely isn't a "bolt-on upgrade". Alone, it certainly won't cut 2 seconds off your 1320 times. It won't yield impressive gains at the dyno, especially once you count the cost up and consider you could have had a better valve body AND nitrous. One thing it is, though, is a serious revamp of your car's very essence and infrastructure, and a lot of work. Sorry if I ruffled a bunch of feathers. |
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#12 (permalink) | |||||||||
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 349
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Like I said before, I don't want this to turn into a flame war between the two of us. I have read a lot of your post and know that you are an intelligent person. I am going to pick apart your last post and give my opinion on some of the points you made.
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Patrick |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Devil's Advocate. Just to cheese you off.
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: In ur srvrz patchin ur krnlz
Posts: 24,445
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I'm not at all offended. Like I said, as a computer hacker, car hacker, electronics hacker, gadget afficionado, and automotive enthusiast, I do appreciate what you're up to on many different levels. You were an amateur before you had to replace your first auto tranny. Once you've figured that out and done it a few times, I can't call you a novice in the transmission department.
I know a lot of the stuff is a pipedream, but the major revamps are what I'm talking about. V8 Swaps. Auto-to-manual swaps, forced induction, built internals. Those are the things that maybe 1% of the FJ members have. You'll be among the 1% soon. probably 10-25% of the FJers (maybe even more) have SOMETHING done. Expensive wheels, tint, intake, exhaust, lowered, a chip, at least one modification that cost $100 or more. I'd call these people the average. You're shooting for exceptional, and there's not a lot of people out there that are ready for that. BTW, the lentech will hold up to lots of power, better than the MTX-75, and probably give you faster and more consistant 1/4 mile times ![]() I know though, I too would rather row through the gears on the twisties than mash the go pedal on a 1/4 mile strip. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Rookie
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: orange county
Posts: 48
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personally, i understand and respect both sides of the opinions given here, but to be thrown into the "meeeetooooo" category without a true basis for such an opinion is a little on the "feather-ruffling" side...however i do appreciate the advice given here and thanks for the right up so i can show you fellas sometime i aint a "meeetooo"-er.....
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#15 (permalink) |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 349
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ROFLMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I am sure that it is one of those "If the shoe fits..." It will all be good. I personally can't wait for you to finish (though not as much as you I am sure) I would like to know how well my information has helped you. |
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#16 (permalink) |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 349
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Hey axOn, isa gots a question for you. I think we have about beat the "Morality of the Tranny Swap" to death.
So, let's say, that YOU had an automatic tranny and wanted to swap it out. Do you think that the information given is concise enough. Does it have enough detail that it will help you doing the swap? What do you think should be added or removed? Your help would be greatly appreciated because I would like to be able to give the people who want to become one of the 1% the most accurate information I can on this subject. |
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#18 (permalink) | |
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Devil's Advocate. Just to cheese you off.
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: In ur srvrz patchin ur krnlz
Posts: 24,445
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Quote:
A list of tools: specialty tools needed, socket sizes, etc tips on getting at hard-to-reach fasteners, explain things that are unclear or not obvious in the manuals and/or by looking at it Pics!!! ford Part numbers wierd odds and ends that you need to look out for, parts that might break fluid capacities, torque specs, clearances, dimensions, etc Basically, if you see how stuff works on FocusHacks, that helps. Time Required, Tools Needed, Special Notes, and then a Step By Step how-to, with pics if possible. As you get it completed, I'd be more than happy to host it (and any photos you have amassed) on my site and give you credit for the walk through. |
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#19 (permalink) |
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[FJ] Addict
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Lubbock, TX (my once and future--but not right now--home
Posts: 16,116
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I'm stickying this thing. ZX3FROG, thanks for a very intensive writeup. I think it's important that people read the debate as well. REmember, Ax0n isn't saying NEVAR EVAR do the swap. He's just making sure people understand both sides of debate.
It's doable, but make sure you're ready for it, guys. Last thing you need is for your car to be out of action for amonth or longer when you were thinking it was gonna be an afternoon job. ANd don't get in over your heads. |
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#21 (permalink) |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 349
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OK, I got the engine/tranny back in the car....FINALLY!!!! I hate working by myself. Takes 3 times longer to do most of the stuff. Any who....I gotta put the belt on and hook up the wires and we will see what happens. Unfortunantly, I ran low on funds and have to wait to get new axles before I can drive it. I will keep you posted.
Patrick |
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#22 (permalink) |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 349
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OK!!!
So after spending hours talking with a few Ford Techs, it seems that you will need to replace the Main Wire Harness. This task is a tremendous step that I did not want to do, but it doesn't look like it can be advoided. So Far, the swap as been relativly simple with just a few minor PITA. Now it goes way beyond simple as you will need to completly take apart your entire Front Dash to replace the wire harness. I will have to wait a few weeks before I can order the harness, so in the mean time, I will disassemble my dash. I will do a step by step on it for you so will be able to decide if you want to undertake this project. Needless to say, I am pretty bummed about it, but its Kewl. I WILL DRIVE MY ZX3 WITH A MANUAL IF IT IS THE LAST THING I DO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Patrick |
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#23 (permalink) |
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Senior TEAM Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: West Granby, CT
Posts: 3,809
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no you shouldnt need that. I had a friend convert a 95 eclipse auto to manual. He had to run a few new wires and disable a sensor.
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#24 (permalink) |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 349
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The thing is that that was a 95 eclipse and not a 00 Focus. I am sure that there is a way to do this without replacing the harness, but that information is either not out there at all or very closely gaurded. For myself I spent a lot of time looking, thought I had it, but didn't. If you know the way, please share the information with us. Thanks.
Patrick |
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#25 (permalink) |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Home Of 2 Mean PW Cars
Posts: 1,237
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Just curious where you are getting your parts???? Just curious, are you talking about the harness that runs from the engine bay back to the fuel tank??????
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