anyone replace the clutch on a 2.0 DOHC Zetec?

[EricWFord]

I have a 2003 ZX5 2.0 Zetec DOHC manual transmission. Clutch seems to be shot. A mechanic I know said the fluid has leaked from the transmission onto the clutch plate and now it's slipping. Has anyone else had problems with this seal? Is the transmission easy to drop to get to this, (can it be done with some jacks in a driveway) or do i need to lift the engine out to get at it?

Also, does anyone recommend a brand or model of a decent aftermarket (not high performance) Clutch kit? Or WSD-M2C200-C motorcraft equivalent replacement trans fluid?

Any tips or posts for focus clutch replacement would be helpful. Thx in advance! I'll post my experience after, I'm certain it will be a grand ole time.

Eric

[RainyZX3]

Check in Shift-It, that's the fourm for trans problems.

[Lancer211]

Yeah, you're probably gonna wanna post this in Shift It or Team Tech.

[hEaT]

Moved

[bmylez]

I'm sorry if this isn't any help, but that question cracks me up. I'm sure someone has changed the clutch on a Zetec before seeing that it has been around for 10 years, lol.

I did mine, and a clutch swap on a Getrag is a little harder because the trans is so damn heavy. The MTX-75 shouldn't be as heavy. You need more than just jack stands. To make life easy, I recommend renting an engine hoist. If you can't get one, I recommend two jacks and a 1'x1' board that you can put between the trans and the jack to support it.

If you haven't done much work on your car before, it's gonna be a long job, just letting you know.

[huskybruiserjr]

if the clutch is shot its maybe a day of work if the seal is shot then its gonna be a weekend of work

[Funktacular]

Tranny will drop straight down..jackstands is fine, I just use the good old "me" as a tranny jack, the mtx75 isn't that heavy. You will need to remove quite a bit of clutter from above it though, airbox, etc...and the driver's side CV can be a b*tch. I simply used a jackstand and a 2x4 to hold the engine up with the tranny out.

[sofreshsoclean]

It most likely isn't trans oil on the clutch, but rather brake fluid from the Clutch cylinder. Replace that when you replace the clutch. I replaced the clutch once just to ruin it and replace it again when that stupid clutch cylinder failed months later. Check your brake fluid level at the master cylinder to see if its been leaking. the Clutch and brakes share the same reservoir.

[hEaT]

It could also be the rear main too on the motor. I would replace that, clutch and the clutch slave cylinder while you're in there. It definitely a job that you only want to do once, so replace what you can while you're there.

[EricWFord]

Wow, this forum is a LOT more active than fordforums.com. Thanks hEat
for moving my post! ...and it ended up being the rear main seal on the
motor, not the shaft input seal, which was ok. I bought a Sachs
clutch kit (came with slave cylinder), master cylinder, centering tool
(why it didn't come with clutch kit i'm not sure), 5W-40 Synthetic
(for tran), brake cleaner/degreaser (inside of tran was black), Dot3
fluid, Rotors and pads, and the rear main seal.

I also enlisted the help of a pro, as I realized i did not have the tools or time to go it alone. I tried to follow along with it as much as i could in my
driveway, but at times I just had to let him work. It's still a work
in progress... It took the better part of the day just to get the
transmission out. We had the front up on two jacks and a 3rd for the
engine. (resting on a piece of wood) we pulled the trans off with the
tran side tilted down, but it was a pain to get it around a corner of
the front frame piece. After that was off we found the rear main
issue. Replaced that. Unfortunately i did not get to see the clutch
install as I was sent to get the CV joint repaired. A roller was missing, there was a hole in the boot and I was at the shop to get a new roller, grease and universal boot. I was back in time for the 2hr wiggle and lineup to get the transmission back on and bolts back in place. Now we have to add put everything back together, add trans and dot3 fluid, bleed the clutch, replace the brake pads and rotors (BLEED THE BRAKES TOO I ASSUME?, since all 1 reservoir is this still necessary?) and cross my fingers and hope it runs/shifts. Unfortunately I'll be at work and will miss the fun. But all if it works, it was still much cheaper than the dealer (duh) and I learned at least a little bit about the car. At 53K, I don't think this stuff should have failed. But it was my wife's car for first 35K and it is 100% stop and go driving in the city.

I do have one question left: Is there any value in draining the brake/clutch reservoir completely? I think they may have plugged it. Will probably replace air filter and spark plugs while we're at it, any other suggestions?

Thanks for the responses.

[lifer]

i wouldnt drain it complitely^^^ and no you will not have to bleed the brakes just bleed the clutch and you are good to go as for the transmition fluid the ford stuff is the way to go or i use the royal purple stuff but it has to be synthetic

[EricWFord]

according to this:
http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/vehic...3+FORD+FOCUS+3
It looks like i can use standard 5W-40 synthetic and still meet the WSD-M2C200-C spec listed in the manual. Anyone agree/disagree?

[Terrible1]

Run this! It's the best stuff out there HANDS DOWN!
http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/products/mtf.html

I've used all of the "top" brands before... Amsoil, RoyalPurple, Redline etc. etc.
This is the absolute best shifting and quietest tranny oil on the market. Their engine oil can't be beat either