ok, i think when i was switching my rims around, i overtightened 1 of the nuts and when i went to take it off, it was not coming off, just spinning around, after messing with it a while more, it just broke off. Now my front right wheel is held on with 3 nuts instead of 4, how bad is this temprary until i find a fix? Also, what should i do ? What do i need to buy? Is it just the spindle or what? its a piece of crap, i never thought i overtightened it, but oh well. Can i still drive around with 3 nuts holding the wheel on instead of 4 for a while???? Help me out guys
it's just a lug. it can be replaced at the dealer pretty easily. I don't know the procedure for replacing it yourself. Feel lucky though, I did the same thing to my first car (81 Accord) and they didn't have replaceable lugs so I had to get a whole new wheel and brake disc!!!
why a new wheel?????? It snaped right about at the part where the stud goes into the spindle thing. So i can just replace the threaded stud itself without anything else? U kind of confused me when you said you had to replace the rim and disk. We are talking about the same thing right? Thnx, im kinda tired, so excuse my ignorance
I said on my 81 accord I had to replace the whole wheel and brake disc. On the Focus you can just replace the lug stud itself without the whole wheel. I have never done it before so I don't know how. If you are in good with the peeps at the dealership they'd probably cover it under warranty even though it's your fault (*my* dealership would do it for me).
The part will almost surely be less than 15 bucks if you decide to do it yourself.
I had to Break four or mine because the last time I had my tires rotated, the f'ing moroon crossthreaded the lug nuts. Just pull the disk off your car, get some replacement lugs and hammer the new one into where the old one came out. Make sure you beat that thing in good so it gets seated properly. If you can't find any lugs around and knowing you the dealer will probably try to charge you a **** load to do it, let me know if you can't find any at an auto parts store. I might have a couple laying around here I could sent to you. Good luck
Not really my area of posts, but I'll try to help out. If the stud is broke it can be driven out by hammering on it. Should take about three good whacks. Go to a NAPA and see if you can get another. Take the stud, it has a mark on the head of say TX or RM or whatever. This is the cross referenc of the thread and the knurl. If not then they can measure the knurl and thread and get it right that way. Slip the new one in from the back of the hub and locate it in the old splines that are there. Now put a lug nut on it with some antiseeze and pull it through with the nut. When it's in place the head will be seated against the hub. Torgue it up tight to mfg specs (I'd guess about 75ft lbs.) and then remove it and put the wheel in place and antiseeze the other studs. Now put the wheel back on and torque them all down. Note I'm saying to lube the threads! This should be the root of your problem. With anitseeze you don't torque all the way to mfg numbers in my experirence as the lube will increase the torque values. Trust me at 75lbs your wheel isn't going to fall off. If the book spec is up at 90 then don't go there with the antiseeze. You run the risk of stretching the threads. Keep them lubed and you'll have a happy car. As for the nut- if this is the problem then I say the nuts you are using are of rather poor quality or they were seriously over torqued when installed and fit with dry threads. If the stud looks good run with it and a new nut, but if torn up see above. Now if that nut is a factory one and is busted, I'd visit the dealer for some input! In any case one or the other is going to give out first- the nut or the stud. Usually we prefer the nut as the stud is harder to replace of course. Hope this is of some help.
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by P-51: Seriously, I don't think any human could break a stud, unless they were using a long pole as a lever! And even then, it should strip the threads, not break the stud.<hr></blockquote>
They can do it using a stock 10-inch-long el-cheapo lug wrench that comes with the car. Not by overtightenting it, but by trying to remove an overtightened lugnut. On my honda I was trying to get the wheel off after some hairless ape moron of a mouth-breater put all four wheels on with some kinda impact wrench that would make any indy-car pit crew drool. I lifted the rear wheel of the car off the ground with the lug wrench and it didn't budge. [img]images/icons/shocked.gif[/img]
I broke mine by jumping up and down on the stock lug wrench thinking maybe the g-force of my 160 pound body landing on it would be enough to get the lug nut off. It was. But One of my lugs was so tight that jumping disn't work and it just went SNAP!
Yeah guys, im so strong, i just grabbed it with my teeth and pulled [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img]
Yes, i did use an extension. It was already cross threaded, and i had to get it off, so i just pulled out my extension, and pushed until it just snapped. I will replace it when i do my brakes on tuesday. EBC pads and rotors ...wooohoo, im riding on the metal of the pad right now and my disk is almost gone from the inside [img]images/icons/shocked.gif[/img]
the bolts are $2-3 at the dealership for front wheel stud. I don't remember which price exactly. The part number is F5RZ-1107-A . I've done 2 front ones and one rear one so far (you don't want to break a rear one, they're $23 ea). You don't even have to take the hub off the car. Directions:
Take off wheel
pound out old stud (3whacks)
slip the new one in from the rear
I put 3 thick 1/2" washers over the bolt so the lug nut doesn't rub on the rotor
Run the nut down on the bolt. This will pull it through and tighten it up in the hub.
I took off the brake caliper but I'm not even sure if you have to do that. Takes all of 30 mins start to finish.
OK GUYS, just to make sure we are on the same level, 1 of the 4 bolts/lugs/studs, whatever the hell it is, that is threaded and comes out from the disk to hold the wheel, broke off. Its the thing that the lugnuts screw onto to hold the wheel on, so are we talking about the same thing? $2 seems to low, knowing ford parts prices. But hey, that would be great.
PS..blink, thanx man, im gonna go down to the ford parts and order that, and change it out when i do my rotors and pads next week. thnx guys
I just made the same mistake last night. When I was putting my Mickey T's on so I could go to the [cough] track [cough] I cross threaded one of the bolts and now it just spins. Piss! [img]images/icons/mad.gif[/img]