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Drilling out Ignition Cylinder

19K views 13 replies 7 participants last post by  texv 
#1 ·
So my ignition cylinder finally siezed up. I can't get the key to turn at all anymore, but it will stil go in. Steering column is disassembled and I'm ready to drill.

I have a picture of one that has been drilled out already:



Anyone want to give me a little walk through on what to do/expect? Do I just drill it and then it pops out?

Any help is appreciated.
 
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#2 ·
I just did this two weeks ago.... same scenario.

You have the TSB with the instructions ready, right? Those are key... follow them carefully.

My biggest mistake was that I let the drill ride up, and it went too high up into the tumbler area.. and I had to use a dremel to trip back down where the lock bar was.

Oddly enough, once the lock bar was out, mine only came halfway unseized... you need the cylinder to rotate quite a ways to get the back retainer clip out of the groove. I believe that normally this isn't a problem.

Honestly, I broke another small piece of metal internally, which really had my fuming for a couple hours until I decided to assemble it anyway and see how it functioned.... works great.

Good luck to you. Lay down LOTS of towels, because metal flies EVERYWHERE!
 
#3 ·
Was your steering wheel locked when you did this? Mine is.

I don't plan to put a new ignition cylinder in myself and I might not even get a new one installed at all. I just need to get it out and get my steering wheel unlocked.
 
#5 ·
Well, I drilled it all the way through .... now what? I still can't get it out
I had the exact same problem. *Drilling* by itself doesn't allow you to get the cylider out. You actually need to rotate the cylider out of the "locked" position. You are drilling so that you can remove a small metal bar that keeps the cylinder from moving called the "lock bar." It's just a small piece of metal.. it will come out of you drill your hole right. Of course I didn't drill right, so I just kept on drilling my hole bigger and bigger until the bar came loose.

After that bar comes out, it will be easy to rotate the cylider out of the "locked" position. Then the whole cylinder will then slide out with ease.
 
#6 ·
Well, I drilled it all the way through .... now what? I still can't get it out
I had the exact same problem. *Drilling* by itself doesn't allow you to get the cylider out. You actually need to rotate the cylider out of the "locked" position. You are drilling so that you can remove a small metal bar that keeps the cylinder from moving called the "lock bar." It's just a small piece of metal.. it will come out of you drill your hole right. Of course I didn't drill right, so I just kept on drilling my hole bigger and bigger until the bar came loose.

After that bar comes out, it will be easy to rotate the cylider out of the "locked" position. Then the whole cylinder will then slide out with ease.
Well it rotates to ACC and all my electrical stuff comes on.

Should it rotate freely once that bar is gone? Or will I need to apply force?
 
#9 ·
Well it rotates to ACC and all my electrical stuff comes on.

Should it rotate freely once that bar is gone? Or will I need to apply force?

AND

when mine locked, the locksmith pulled the cylander out without drilling it, put in new tumblers and springs in it, and then stuck it back in my column....how come everyone's having to drill it out?
You only have to drill it if you can't turn it. If you can turn it, then turn it and just press down on the release button (small metal button on the side of the cylinder) and it will slide out.
 
#10 ·
Well it rotates to ACC and all my electrical stuff comes on.

Should it rotate freely once that bar is gone? Or will I need to apply force?

AND

when mine locked, the locksmith pulled the cylander out without drilling it, put in new tumblers and springs in it, and then stuck it back in my column....how come everyone's having to drill it out?
You only have to drill it if you can't turn it. If you can turn it, then turn it and just press down on the release button (small metal button on the side of the cylinder) and it will slide out.
Yeah, had to press that little button. It's all out now ... starting my car with a screwdriver ...
 
#11 ·
were do you live? im looking for a parts focus. lol j/k
 
#12 ·
Well it rotates to ACC and all my electrical stuff comes on.

Should it rotate freely once that bar is gone? Or will I need to apply force?

AND

when mine locked, the locksmith pulled the cylander out without drilling it, put in new tumblers and springs in it, and then stuck it back in my column....how come everyone's having to drill it out?
You only have to drill it if you can't turn it. If you can turn it, then turn it and just press down on the release button (small metal button on the side of the cylinder) and it will slide out.
No, mine wasn't turning at all... but the button still worked... I dunno how, but I guess I should try and find out how he did it, sounds like it would help a lot of people out.
 
#13 ·
No, mine wasn't turning at all... but the button still worked... I dunno how, but I guess I should try and find out how he did it, sounds like it would help a lot of people out.
I just had this happen to my 2003 ZX3/Manual tranny.
I parked it and now the key won't turn at all.


Can anyone show me a picture or more descriptive detail on where this button is located ?
 
#14 ·
well, you've got to remove all the plastic that is housing the cylider first. Then, if you look on the side of the cylinder closest to the steering wheel, there is a small metal button. It's flat on the top and roundish on the sides, and it's about half a centimeter in diameter. it's connected to the rest of the cylinder by more metal. If you didn't know it was a button, you might not recognise it. If the key is in the locked position, the button will not depress.
 
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