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Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement --> How-to

70K views 18 replies 12 participants last post by  ZX3Nut 
#1 · (Edited)
I had to replace my rear wheel bearings and decided to take pics and make a how-to, since i wasn't able to find anything specific to what's included or how the process is done.


On the scale of 1(easy) to 10(hard) on the easy / hard scale, i would rate this a 4. It's actually very simple and it's not too much time consuming.

The way i knew i needed to replace my wheel bearings was because they were producing a humming/grinding sound when the car was in movement. Of course the loudness of the noise consists of how deteriorated the bearings are. In my case, my driver's side was the culprit [xx(] . The passenger side was producing noise as wheel but not as bad as the other.

You can also check them by raising the car and grabing the wheel and try to move it from side to side, up and down. If there's any movement, there's a chance they might need to be replaced. Although this isn't a sure way to know if they're bad.

In any case, it's good practice to replace both sides at the same time. As well for the front.

Process Time:
  • 45-60 minutes (took me only 30 minutes for the removal and installation and i had all except one tool at hand).
Cost:
  • $ 85 for the bearing kit.
  • $ 10 for the shop that helped me press in and out the bearings.
Tools:

  • 13mm wrench
  • 15mm wrench
  • 19mm deep socket
  • 30mm socket
  • 1/2" Socket wrench / rachet. (i used a handle wrench)
  • Rubber mallet (or hammer)
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Car Jack (I used a large 2 ton jack)
  • Thread lock (for bolts)
  • C-Clip remover pliers
  • A Press (this isn't a tool that you would normally have around in your house, so if you don't have one, just take it to a shop and have them do this job for you)
Some of the tools i used -


To get started chalk your front tires (prevent the car from moving in any direction when lifting it with a jack).

Before i raised the car i loosened the rear wheel lug nuts, just enough to be able to take them off when the car is raised. Raise the rear of your Focus using a jack, or if you have access to a lift, even better.

Support the car on jack stands on both sides.
NEVER WORK ON A CAR THAT IS NOT PROPERLY SUPPORTED ON JACK STANDS OR JUST SUPPORTED ON THA JACK ITSELF!
-



Now remove the rear tires. I have a tendency to place them under the car so in any case the car would to fall of the stands, it will fall on the wheels and not crush you're arse while working under it!
Of course, if that were to happen, it would F' up your wheels
. -



I went ahead and removed the dust cap from the hub, while i could still use the parking break, thus it wouldn't spin while i was banging it. I used a flathead screwdriver and a hammer to remove it -



And i also loosened the hub retaining nut afterwards (just loosened it a bit). Of course this won't spin, so you may do this after removing the calipers and rotors. But i went ahead and did it anyways.
-





Using a 13mm and a 15mm wrench, remove the bolts holding the caliper in place -



You may also want to unhook the emergency brake cable for more movement -



Remove the brake caliper and set aside -



Remove the brake pads from the rotors and set aside. This is also a good time to inspect them for unusual wear and replace if needed -



Remove the caliper-holding bracket using the 13mm wrench. It's held by 2 bolts behind the spindle -





Set the bracket aside. You may also want to screw the bolts in place, to prevent from loosing them -



Remove the rotors -



Now you can continue with removing the hub retaining nut using the 30mm socket -





Remove the hub from the spindle -





My baby during the install -



Remember to replace the rubber seal that goes on the spindle. This prevents from water or dirt to enter into the bearing -







Now, onto the hubs.

Remove the ABS sensor ring -



Remove the water seal carrier -





Using the C-Clip pliers, remove the C-clip (or Circlip) from the hub -







Like stated above, i don't have a press, (yet
) so i took both hubs to an alignment shop and had them press out the old bearings and press in the new ones -





Just by looking at the used bearings, you can't really notice the damage unless you spin them. You can feel the wear on them -



Install the water carrier seals and the ABS sensor rings back on the hubs. The kit i bought came with new ABS sensor rings and water seals -





Remember to clean the spindles before installing the hubs in place. Inspect for any corrosion and replace if needed -



Install the hub in place and screw on the retaining nut. Tighten the nut to 174 lbs-ft (as the instructions that came with the kit stated) -





Install the dust cap (The kit came with new caps, plus i damaged mine upon removal) I was having a hard time installing them into place, so i had to use a little brute force
. Hence the marks on the cap -



Install the rotors into place -



Install the caliper bracket back into place and tighten the bolts to 52 lb-ft (as stated in sheet that came with the kit). Install the pads and the caliper into place, tighten the caliper bolts to 41lbs-ft. Remember to hook the emergency cable back up. It's also a good ides to use some thread lock on the bolts -



Before installing your wheels, be sure to double check everything, just in case
Install your wheels back on the car. Tighten the lug nuts to 95 lbs-ft.




You're good to go. Test drive the car starting at a low speed and accelerating from there.


Hope this helps you out. If i missed something or need additional help, please feel free to let me know. You can pm me or post here!
Enjoy!
 
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#4 ·
Now remove the rear tires. I have a tendency to place them under the car so in any case the car would to fall of the stands, it will fall on the wheels and not crush you're arse while working under it! Of course, if that were to happen, it would F' up your wheels
ill take messed up wheels over messed up face anyday :lol: i sometimes do the same

good write up. i have drums and did pretty much the same minus the caliper stuff
 
#15 ·
Good News, Boss says it should be just fine as long as the hub is ok when i take the bearing out. The spindle just holds the bearing in a horizontal plan and as long as the bearing fits over the spindle without getting hung up on the scratch it will be fine. Still need that info on wheel bearings though pawease.
 
#16 ·
Hello! New to the site and am amazed with this extended awesome write-up!

I have an early 2002 SVT in need of rear bearings and etc... I've had it since new, and have it all torn apart already! Did I mention, Awesome write up?!!!:rock:



PROBLEM

The exploded diagram of the rear supsension in the main thread doesn't show the rubber spindle rain seal as a part of the assy!!!

Mine are shot, as well as the ABS sensor rings. When I called the local dealer he would Love to sell me those reluctor rings for $180 a pop!
I figure those are what is listed as 2B384 in the diagram. They are the final piece shown, with no seal shown.
Is that insane, or expected? Either way, without the rubber seals, I doubt the bearings will last long.


I know it's been a long time since this thread was initiated, but does anybody have a kit part number for the rain seals and ABS sensor rings? The dealer said he only listed the rings.

I'd sure appreciate some help here, so Thank You in advance!
 
#17 · (Edited)
M Kay then...

Answered my own question today. Went to the local dealership. That part listed as 2B384 is called an "axle spindle lock washer" and they're $45 @ the local parts store. Obviously not what I'm looking for by name at least. The description reads: smooth, replaces the earlier ribbed type. So I wonder if they are the ABS rings? Whatever... that's not a part number...

He says that the rear ABS rings come with the KIT mentioned in the OP's text of this thread.
He expanded, that it's the only way to get the rain seals, they have no individual orderable part number. As I asked earlier, they aren't even shown in the exploded view. The KIT comes with Rear Bearings, Retainers, Sensor Rings, and Seals. It does BOTH sides for list @ $180, not that he ever charges that...

Ford PN# 1M5Z 4A013 WW

Hope that's helpful to somebody...
 
#18 ·
Good search skills! And this is a great write-up, I can't believe I never saw it before... :thumbup:

Call Steve (FORDSVTPARTS) at Tousley Ford, he's a sponsor with knowledge and 10% over dealer cost, quick turnaround on shipping too.
 
#19 ·
I'd love to add my own thread and show my freshly painted RED pretty dust covers, spindles, calipers & brackets, and the freshly redone in BLACK trailing arms, w/ New this and that, that you wouldn't notice in pics......
But this thread is so complete, it would be a waste of bandwidth.

So I'll add part numbers that were omitted by the OP as my contribution.

As I said, the KIT is Ford PN# 1M5Z 4A013 WW probly paid more than I could've thru Tousley, but I'm a strong supporter of local economies when I can be. $163 and change, out the door tax incl.

sublisted parts in that are, 1M514C006AA, 89FB1248AC, 1M514C007AA, 98AB1238AD, 98AB2B384BB
There's two of everything, 6-part types in all, but only 5 get mention on the package. The number I was most concerned with was for the rubber spindle seals and that's in BOLD type. It also has above that on the bag they come in, 1M511A154SUB1

The other thing I could add, was my happy surprise to find available SVT spec rear caliper slides and rubber bootys at the parts store!
Slides w/cal bolts come in pairs Carlson PN# H5084 Rubber Bootys for them come all 4 in a package w/ more cal bolts, under Carlson PN# 13199

I bought one pair slides and the bootys for $19.00 even money.


Pretty easy job for being a 10yo high miles northern Ohio car. Only snapped off 3-bolts. Both ABS bolts of course, and one spindle bolt. Nothin a couple minutes on the drill press and chasing the old threads with a nice new tap didn't fix. Only thing I busted a knuckle on was getting one stupid ABS wire clamp on the trailing arm unhooked. It's always the simplest part that's a PITA, aint it?
 
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