See thread here for how this started:
Pit Stop Mods/Admins, feel free to move this if necessary. Figured I'd throw it here since Team Tech doesn't get much traffic and this applies to all 00-07 Focus Hatches.
First off, I noticed the hatch light would no longer come on and soon after, the electronic pop for the hatch stopped working. Figured it would be a good idea to check the harness coming from the hatch and this is what I found...
- T20 Torx
- Flathead and Phillips Screw Drivers
- 8mm, 10mm, and 13mm sockets
- Wiring Supplies
First, remove the 3rd brake light. It's held on with two T20 torx bits. It will take some work to get it to come out. After it's out, pull off the washer fluid line from the sprayer and unplug the clip
Next is to remove the wiper from the outside of the car with a 13mm socket. Lift up the cover, remove the nut and pull the wiper off. It's on a tapered shaft so it takes some wiggling, but it comes off pretty easily.
The license plate needs to come off as well if you have a plate frame as it will interfere with removal of the hatch strip.
Open the hatch and begin to remove all the plastic trim. The largest piece at the bottom is held on with four screw clips and other pressure clips. Remove the screw from the center:
They are all plastic so be careful, especially when putting them back in. The clips just pop out with a small flathead:
Start pulling around the edges until the remaining clips release. The next piece to come off is the one at the top of the hatch. It just pulls straight off.
The side pieces come off when you give the pivots for the privacy cover a quarter turn and pull the panels off.
It should look like this now:
Unplug the wiper motor, unbolt the ground strap and remove the wiper motor. The ground bolt and motor bolts are all 8mm.
The reason for removing the wiper and motor is to access the hatch strip. This needs to be removed to unplug the festoon bulbs. The strip is held on with 5 10mm nuts on BRASS studs. If your car has seen winter, these will snap guaranteed. I broke all of mine. I ended up replacing it with the one from the old WW WRC replica. Double-sided tape should work fine if you can't replace the studs.
Pull out the strip and unplug the bulbs. When re-connecting, the black wire goes to the smaller contact and the hot lead goes to the larger.
Unplug the hatch popper which also integrates the door-open switch and being removing the clips which hold the loom. Pull on the ties with pliers and they pop right out. Be careful to not pull from the wiring.
Work your way around and unplug the defrost when you get to it.
Pull the rubber boot free from the hatch and body. It's a huge PITA. The headliner should be removed to unclip the body-side retaining ring, but it can be pried up from the top. Just be aware it will break after doing this a few times.
Snake the entire harness back through the hatch and pull it out to make it easier to work with. This is what I found inside the boot:
Slide the boot up to expose the area you need to work on:
Cut out the bad sections and splice in new wiring. I use 14-16ga and 18-22ga non-insulated connectors with heatshrink. Quick, looks decent and was easier than removing the harness from the car so I could solder it.
Here is a proper crimp before heatshrink:
Completed harness before I re-wrapped it in tape:
Unfortunately, the boot is too tight to wrap the harness in foam tape to help prevent this from happening again, but the extra length to the wire should help.
From here, everything is the reverse of install. The harness is actually fairly easy to route back through the hatch, but take your time and it should go easily. Verify everything works before you button it up.