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vibration in reverse

25K views 13 replies 7 participants last post by  EStack 
#1 ·
car is a 02 sedan se auto
usually when i go from park to reverse I hear a thump/clunk.
Today (first day of snow) i put it in reverse and with my foot on the brake there was heavy vibration
i tested it about 10 times going from park reverse drive, drive reverse, drive park reverse and it only happened a couple times
my warranty will expire in 40 km

Ive done a search and theres threads with vibration from first to second and it being a motor mount
could that be it?
 
#3 ·
Hi,

I don't know if I will be much help, but I can tell you this. Your problem lands between your front brake rotors and your driveline. Are you certain that it ONLY happens in reverse? Manual or Auto? If only reverse I would suspect the trans because that is the only variable in my experience. If that is the case, you better get it TOWED to the dealer if you only have 40Km left on your warranty! Since we are talking Kilometers, that means you must be from Canada-land like me (America's 'hat'). Are you in Ontario? If so, where abouts?

Anyways, I know someone with a 2000 Focus sedan with a 2.0L Zetec, auto, and she has a bad vibration in Drive. I never tried reverse, but now I am curious!

I have seen a bad vibration on a Dodge Caravan at idle speed in gear due to a cracked flywheel (around the mounting bolts at the crank). I found out the problem after I told him to send it to a shop, and that is what they found. I inspected it myself before-hand, and determined the problem was likely engine-internal, which it wasn't. Along the same lines though, it was driveline internal. I checked with my hands on the motor/trans and with a mechanics stethescope. Anyways, I want you to be very analytical.

If it ONLY happens in reverse, and is automatic, then it is likely the tranny, flywheel OR torque converter, but not likely the torque converter. If it is manual, then it is likely the trans.

Also, there are 3 physical mounts that mount your eng/trans as a unit. One on the passenger side (motor mount), one on the drivers side (trans mount), and one at the bottom rear center of the assembly that bolts to the undercarriage to stabilize any deflection (I don't know what they actually call it, but it is about 4 or 5" long and has one bolt on the eng/trans assy, and one bolt on the chassis of the car. Easy to see if you are under the car looking up at the firewall.

Anyways, I hope this is helpful. Feel free to give me more detail or ask any questions. Let me know how you make out!

Kev
 
#4 ·
I live in london

warranty is gone as I now have 71,000 km and it is auto
It never happened in drive and the last time it did happen was at the end of october when I first made the post and it happened once or twice last night, but the first time I just put it in reverse and it would vibrate and this time it would only vibrate when i tap the gas
but it only happened twice within the whole night.

It kinda feels like its coming from the engine bay, thats why I thought it might be a motor mount

I also had the auto trans service at 50,000 km
 
#5 ·
I did a google search and the consumer guide auto said this:

http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com/2000-to-2004-ford-focus-2.htm
Engine noise: Engine vibration while idling in reverse may be due to stones lodging in the rear, engine roll restrictor. (2000-05)
Vehicle noise: The right motor mount could break due to defective hardware resulting in noise, vibration, and possible driveshaft damage. Redesigned mounts were being installed under a recall. (2000)
 
#6 ·
Try that rear roll restrictor just mentioned. Focus only has one roll restrictor, Contour before it had 2, one front and rear. Newer cheaper design (yeah, right). Depending on where the rubber is torn or missing the rear restrictor could very easily vibrate one way and not the other, since the part loads on one side and then other depending on forward/reverse movement of car. No guarantee, but part is easy to pull off and look at, 2 fairly easy to get to bolts hold it on. Part located on back of trans attaching to the big black painted subframe.
 
#7 ·
your vibration is most likely caused by the driverside motor mount... prone to failure... i had the same issue with 80k miles on my ZTS... replaced all 3 mounts with billet aftermarket pieces and the problem was solved...

i would suggest replacing all three mounts at one time... oem pieces are pretty reasonable and fairly simple to install... which your warranty should cover without issue anyways

good luck
-AcId-
 
#8 ·
Could be. That driver mount is funky, it can tear up easy. It is harder to get to though and higher priced part, that's why I said look at the restrictor first. You can get to the driver mount by removing airbox, it just stands on 3 legs that squeeze into rubber grommets. You gotta be careful on older car to pry airbox up without maybe breaking one of those legs off in a hardened from time/heat grommet. If you lift airbox, you can remove it completely by loosening 1 screw clamp and unplugging MAF. You can then see the mount, if any rubber powder/ scrapings present, then mount coming apart, needs changing.
 
#9 ·
Ok,

So that dealie that I mentioned I didn't know the name of is called the roll restrictor... makes sense! And yes, I would target that. I never thought of it before AMC49 mentioned it, but yes, if the rubber bushings are screwed, it could vibrate in one direction. It is easy enough to remove if you can get the car off the ground, it is just a bit more difficult to re-install. You would be best to have somebody around to help you, or a means of stabilizing the engine in position prior to removal. It is also easier to do than gutting the drivers side of your engine bay to get the other mount out. Let me know.

P.S. I am in Palmerston, ON. Only about 2 hours away from you. Let me know if you need a hand.
 
#10 ·
Mine fell right out, and back in. Key all bolts started before tightening any one. With restrictor gone, entire engine/trans can rotate around an axis back and forth. Since most of the weight shows up though when load straight down, it's not hard to rotate even by hand the slight amount to line up bolt holes. Just pull/push motor the necessary way, it doesn't take a goliath at all. I can easily rock mine 3-4 inches out of straight down. I should add this caveat!!!! Make sure the main mounts/bolts on fenderwells ARE GOOD BEFORE YOU CLIMB UNDER CAR AND LOOSEN RESTRICTOR!!!! If either end, especially the driver's side is broken the motor/trans could possibly fall and CRUSH YOU! Put a jack under pan or bell housing for protection.
 
#11 ·
Try this to test motor mounts. Hold car by brake, and have someone observe the enging, noting position at idle. Holding by brake shift to first and rev (load engine) and check movement of engine. Shift into reverse, load and obvserve movement. This should indicate the amount of flex in the system.
Additionally, work cv joints will take up slack and klunk when reversing
 
#12 · (Edited)
My girlfriends Focus is having a vibration with it in reverse wheels turn and brakes held down. I had her hold brakes and hit the gas in both reverse and drive. TOO much movement if you ask me.

I'm getting my wisdom teeth removed on Monday so it'll be impossible for me to fix this for her. Price range at a shop?

I'm going to take a video of the engine movement as I've never been around a Focus til now other than changing her oil and rotating her tires.
 
#13 ·
My girlfriends Focus is having a vibration with it in reverse wheels turn and brakes held down. I had her hold brakes and hit the gas in both reverse and drive. TOO much movement if you ask me.

I'm getting my wisdom teeth removed on Monday so it'll be impossible for me to fix this for her. Price range at a shop?
It depends...are you wanting for them to do one or all three mounts?

Personally, I'd do all three mounts. A dealer would probably charge you about $500 to $600 for all three - both parts and labour. An independent shop will be lower. Just make sure you use the Ford mounts. The aftermarket ones have gotten mixed reviews and people saying they don't last as long.
 
#14 · (Edited)
I'd like all three as why replace one and leave two used.

I told her two breakdowns ago to trade this car in. Almost everything but the body is new on this car its broken down so much on her. And she takes care of it both maintenance and daily.

I'm looking up the parts for these cars, and thats even different. There is not front or rear mount. It's Front Bracket and Front Insulation...I'm going to assume that they split the front motor mount into two different parts. The bracket itself and then the insulation. Am I correct? Because I'm already at $250 in parts.

What's the maximum she should drive this because A) she just started a new job B) I could do the work once I feel better but it may be a month as I have AT for military coming up.
 
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