SVT spring swap

[Folk-S]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by myfocuss2:
WOW! I just installed these on my S2. They look better than I expected. I thought that my 40 series tires would make it look high, but its not. It is way lower than my S2 springs. It is ATLEAST one inch lower. I will post some pics tomorrow of the springs with my new Mach HID headlights.

Justin<hr></blockquote>


Did you only do springs? How do you fine the ride compared to your stock S2 suspension?

[myfocuss2]

I have not got to drive it yet, I just finished tonight about 11. I will let you know tomorrow about the ride.

Justin

[fishjam40]

Well, got the bumpstops in today from Fordpartsonline....but no springs from the dealer to install with. [img]graemlins/thumbdown.gif[/img] Something tells me I shoulda just went with Fordpartsonline for everything...btw, I want to see you peoples' pics! [img]graemlins/thumbup.gif[/img]

[MichaelXi]

I'm halfway through installing the springs, bumpstops, Front Control-Arm Bushings, and "Tranny-Mount" bushings.
I'll have a few pics after I get them developed and scanned....
G1-Focus. YES you will see an improvement. Not as great as if you replace the dampers as well, but an improvement nonetheless. (I'm assuming you don't have a "Street Edition"? The Sedan Equivalent of an S2?)
If you can swing it, get some nice dampers too. If not, don't sweat it, and just plan for them in the future.
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[Gray_S2]

After a couple hundred miles mine are FINALLY settled in and they give the car a GREAT stance! I'd say its dropped a little more than an inch. Body roll has been significantly reduced and the ride quality is has not suffered much [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

Got the alignment done yesterday. This is the first "mod" I've done to the car after owning it for 3 weeks. Tonight the MBRP exhaust is going on [img]graemlins/party.gif[/img]

[G1-Focus]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by michaelxi:
I'm halfway through installing the springs, bumpstops, Front Control-Arm Bushings, and "Tranny-Mount" bushings.
I'll have a few pics after I get them developed and scanned....
G1-Focus. YES you will see an improvement. Not as great as if you replace the dampers as well, but an improvement nonetheless. (I'm assuming you don't have a "Street Edition"? The Sedan Equivalent of an S2?)
If you can swing it, get some nice dampers too. If not, don't sweat it, and just plan for them in the future.
[img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img] <hr></blockquote>

Excellent, and thanks.
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No, I don't have the Street Edition, but I have the SE Sport for 2001 and I don't know if there is any difference vs. a non Sport SE.

[ 08-16-2002: Message edited by: G1-Focus ]</p>

[MichaelXi]

DONE!!! [img]graemlins/party.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/party.gif[/img]
14.5 working hours including breaks.
Installed F/R SVT springs, SVT front Bumpstops, Prothane Front Control-Arm bushings, Prothane "Tranny-Mount" bushings, and "Crash-Bolt" control-arm bolts.
No Air-Tools available. [img]images/icons/frown.gif[/img]
Torch and press available and required.(For Bushings).
4 Springs compressors. (My LEAST-Favorite part of the job. I thought I was going to crank 'til my arms fell off. Slow and Tedious. [img]graemlins/thumbdown.gif[/img] )
Getting the S2 springs off was much more difficult than installing the SVT ones, thanks to the SVT's shorter length requiring less compression.
It happened that quickly thanks to LOTS of help from a fellow who knew what he was doing, generally speaking, who was eager to learn about the Focus application, his room-mate, who assisted w/ some of the labor, and me.
I HIGHLY recommend the Tranny-Mount Bushings as well. See my post in Auto-X for details...
http://www.teamfocaljet.com/cgi-bin/...c&f=8&t=001290
I hope to have pics developed eventually, and will post them when I can.
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WHEW!!! It's DONE!!!! [img]graemlins/party.gif[/img] (Now I'm QUITE sore, AND wired.... [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img] )
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[MichaelXi]

If anyone has any SPECIFIC questions, PM me, and I'll answer them for you, even if I have to ask the fellow who did MOST of the work.
I'm going to try to get him to register. He's got a nice '66 Mustang that he's playing with, and he's often admired the usefulness of the 'Jet.
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[Cameroon]

G1 the SE sport has the Zetec engine if I'm not mistaken? If so you'll have a rear sway bar (unlike spi models) The Street edition/S2 dampers are a good cheap upgrade, though just about any reputable brand will do wonders as well.

[TboneZX3]

I finally received my front bumpstops and rear springs to complete my SVT spring/S2 damper setup.

I LOVE it!! I would also say that the S2 dampers are perfect for the SVT springs, they control the movement VERY well. I feel the dampers are as good an upgrade as the springs.

IMO, the S2 and Street Edition should come OEM this way, and the base ZX3 and Sedan should have the S2/S Ed. setup.

I took some pretty accurate measurements from the floor to the lip of the fender/quarter panel before and after spring install. Keep in mind, this is just after driving around the block, before any settling:

Before:

LF: 25 7/8"
RF: 25 6/8"
LR: 26 3/4"
RR: 26 3/4"

After:

LF: 25 7/16"
RF: 25 5/16"
LR: 26 1/2"
RR: 26 1/2"

This would equate to about 1/2" front and 1/4" rear. I expect to see quite a bit of further settling, especially in the rear.

[51t]

Well, I finished installing the springs yesterday. Right after install the fronts were down 3/4" and the rears were up 1/2". After driving around for 2 days they have settled down to 1 13/16" front, 5/16" rear.

Here is a little before and after. The before pic sucks though:

[MichaelXi]

Are you sure you got the rear springs seated in their perch properly?
The rear drop should DEFINITELY be more than 5/16ths. Mine was more than that as soon as it came off of the jack.
[img]images/icons/confused.gif[/img]
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[ 08-22-2002: Message edited by: michaelxi ]</p>

[51t]

How can I tell if it is infact seated properly? I'm pretty sure I did it properly. I did measure the springs and the rears were 1 1/4" shorter on the floor so I did think I was suppose to get more of a drop than that.

[MichaelXi]

The ends of the springs should be rotated such that they are snug against the "Stop" in the spring perch, Top AND Bottom.
They are stiffer, so they won't drop 1.25", more like .75-1", but 5/16ths is odd.
Look at the very end of the spring coil. it should be as deep in the perch as possible, and against the "Notch"(For lack of a better way to describe it) in the perches. The spring should be rotated as far counter-clockwise, (From the top, if I recall correctly) as possible.
EDIT!!!! MAKE THAT CLOCK_WISE from the top. I just went and looked.
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[ 08-23-2002: Message edited by: michaelxi ]</p>

[51t]

Great now I am probably going to have to redo the rears. Oh well, another hour or two wasted on the focus. Thanks for the info michealxi. Didn't know I should have rotated them counter-clockways.

[MAlby7]

Got my springs in lat week and installing them next week. Thank you everyone that provided useful information in this post.

[xappie]

Ok so I have part numbers for the following:

SVT front and rear springs
SVT front bump stops
SVT front l/r struts

What about SVT rear shocks? Can't find those parts... and will this be a good setup or should I be using S2 struts and shocks?

And what is with the fordpartsonline website? Can't seem to get onto it...

[MichaelXi]

The S2 struts/shocks would be fine, but You can't go wrong w/ switching if you can afford it.
Whatever you do, use all 4 of either. Mixing and matching probably would diminish your results.
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[MichaelXi]

NOTE MY EDIT ABOVE!!!!!!
You have to turn the rear springs CLOCKWISE (From Above) as far as possible in the perches to seat them correctly.
I just went out and looked, and had to post Immediately.
Sorry for any confusion.
The idea is to turn it 'til the ends of the springs can't turn any further in the perches.
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[xappie]

Ok for members in the Toronto area... I have been in contact with Fraser Ford in Oshawa and I have convinced them to come up with a package deal for an SVT spring swap on a ZX3. Here are the details:

Combination 1) Front and rear springs/struts, rear sway bar/links, and all labor - $1079.00
Combination 2) Front and rear springs/struts, and all labor - $786.00
Combination 3) Front and rear springs/struts, rear sway bar/links, no labor - $694.00
Combination 4) Front and rear springs/struts, no labor - $464.00

Here are the part numbers they are using... all SVT parts:

Rear 21mm stabilizer bar - 1S4Z-5A772-BA
Rear stabilizer bar insulators - Stock
Rear stabilizer bar mounting clamp - Stock
Rear stabilizer bar Stud - 1M5Z-5495-AA
Rear stabilizer bar nut - Stock
Rear stabilizer bar bushings - 1M5Z-5776-AA
Rear coil springs - 2M5Z-5B669-AA
Rear shock absorber - AST-39
Front strut, RH - AST-38
Front strut, LH - AST-42
Front coil springs - 2M5Z-5310-AA
Front strut bumpers - 2M5Z-3020-AA

That should be all the numbers. The items that I listed as "stock" are the same on the SVT as they are on the stock ZX3.

If you are interested, shoot Lance Phillips an email at PARTS@FRASERFORD.CA

No, I don't work for this dealer or any dealer, but I am getting this work done myself and maybe if I can drum up some business for them they will knock a few bucks off my install! [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

It sounds like a good deal to me, especially when you factor in shipping charges etc to order the parts yourself. I haven't done this myself yet so if you need more info send Lance an email. I don't expect these prices to last forever, in fact he says that Ford part prices are constantly changing...

Yes, these are Canadian dollars. What do you guys think? A good deal? You could probably save on labour and do it yourself, but for my peace of mind, and to convince my wife to let me do this, I need professional installation. [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

Edit: OH yeah... tell Lance that phil sent you!

[ 08-24-2002: Message edited by: xappie ]</p>

[MichaelXi]

I KNOW the #'s are Canadian, so I won't try to convert, but they are WAY over-charging on the rear-bar/endlinks/install.
That is SOOOO EASY it's absurd.
You can do it in your driveway with simple tools.
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[xappie]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by michaelxi:
I KNOW the #'s are Canadian, so I won't try to convert, but they are WAY over-charging on the rear-bar/endlinks/install.
That is SOOOO EASY it's absurd.
You can do it in your driveway with simple tools.
[img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img] <hr></blockquote>

Yeah... I will probably go with option 2 myself.

[MichaelXi]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by xappie:


Yeah... I will probably go with option 2 myself.<hr></blockquote>

If you don't wish to tackle it yourself, that's probably the best option.
Rear endlinks, I think about $20 US. Time-10 minutes or less.
I'm not sure on the price for the bar itself, but if you go w/ a Ford bar, re-use the Factory Sway-Bar Bushings, since no company currently offering Poly-Urethane components yet makes bushings which are compatible w/ a neat function of the Factory bars.
Poly-U Endlinks are fine. I recommend Prothane from Tony D at NewEdgePerformance.
[img]graemlins/thumbup.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/thumbup.gif[/img]
Just skip the other parts of the kit.
If possible, see what they'll quote you for installation of the Prothane Poly-U Front Control-Arm Bushings while they're at it.
It's amazing how much more precise it makes the steering, especially under duress.
[img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

[xappie]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by michaelxi:


If you don't wish to tackle it yourself, that's probably the best option.
Rear endlinks, I think about $20 US. Time-10 minutes or less.
I'm not sure on the price for the bar itself, but if you go w/ a Ford bar, re-use the Factory Sway-Bar Bushings, since no company currently offering Poly-Urethane components yet makes bushings which are compatible w/ a neat function of the Factory bars.
Poly-U Endlinks are fine. I recommend Prothane from Tony D at NewEdgePerformance.
[img]graemlins/thumbup.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/thumbup.gif[/img]
Just skip the other parts of the kit.
If possible, see what they'll quote you for installation of the Prothane Poly-U Front Control-Arm Bushings while they're at it.
It's amazing how much more precise it makes the steering, especially under duress.
[img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img] <hr></blockquote>


Ok this is where my ignorance shines through... what are endlinks anyhow? What are Poly-U Front contral arm bushings?

[MichaelXi]

The rear end-links are easy.
Look under the rear of your car at ground-level.
On either side, near the wheel, you will see the ends of your sway-bar attached by vertical bolts with rubber bushings on them.
They are obvious enough that you can see them from 15-20 feet behind a stock-height Focus if you just squat down.
You simply remove those old bolts and rubber bushings, and replace them with the appropriate parts of the Prothane kit.
Just be sure to keep your washers, spacers, bushings, etc. in order, as they all have to slide off the new bolt in the kit, and be replaced in the appropriate locations as you slide the new bolt back through.
The control-arm bushings I'm referring to are for the front control arms. They are an ENTIRELY bigger Fish to fry. The Front control arms are the largest flat piece of metal that laterally connects the frame to the front hub/spindle assembly.
There is a Front, and a Rear Bushing on each of the front control arms. You can see them with the wheel off. They are in the "Hinge-Points" between the arm and the frame. The factory ones are sloppy rubber, and aren't even solid at that, so there's LOTS of slack there.
See my Thread in the Auto-X Forum re: "Swap-Time" for more details on my entire endeavor.
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[ 08-25-2002: Message edited by: michaelxi ]

[ 08-25-2002: Message edited by: michaelxi ]</p>