front camber kit ?

[bryan_ruiz]

where does the bolt have to be to adjust camber (to get rid of negative camber)? Bolt on outside or inside?

[Oreo]

I assume you're talking about the front camber plates & the strut top nut?

If so, you want the nut outside, or away from the engine bay.

[DisrupTer911]

you've got a few options

SPC Front camber plates Though, these tend to eat bearings and don't seem to be made of the strongest metal as I've broken 3 and i've heard of countless others who have as well. Cause spring strut misalignment and can cause more force to be applied to the strut. Adjust via the top center nut but adjust Camber & Caster collectively. but its still a viable option.

Progress front and rear camber shims/platers I'm not to familiar on anyone actually using these so I don't know how well they work

K-Mac focus camber plates seen here. Similiar in design to the SPC plates, but use a spherical bearing to reduce spring strut misalignment and keep things center. Again, alignment is via top nut but adjusts Camber and Caster collectively. A much better option but cost $400+ from Austrailia.

F2 fixed camber plates fixed camber to -1.25*. maintains spring & strut alingment cheap. and seem to work well. No adjustment.

I've got a set of these on order, should be getting here on teh 1st. so i'll let you know how they are.


Kearny Racing also produces a slotted control arm w/ longer tie rods to adjust camber but just to fix a lowered cars alignment, I don't recommend them. More race use then anything.

Basically, SPC & K-Mac adjust via the top center nut on the strut to positon it where you want the camber to be at.
Sliding the strut in towrads the engine creates Negative camber and sliding it out towards the street create Positive camber.

Progress and F2 are fixed.

[Oreo]

If you're looking to BUY the SPC camber plates, see my ad in the for-sale forum!

[bryan_ruiz]

thanks for the help, I just wanted to make sure I had the kit on correctly I have the SPC plates.

[DisrupTer911]

yes, you'll wna put a long 3/8th extention into the square hole

then losen the middle nut just a bit so you can move it then twist the extention with a ratchet

then torque down the middle nut to 35#s after you've got it set.

[MichaelXi]

Just remember that unless you're at full positive or negative camber adjustment, you're simultaneously messing with the caster, so plan accordingly.

[Honda Hunter]

you've got a few options

SPC Front camber plates Though, these tend to eat bearings and don't seem to be made of the strongest metal as I've broken 3 and i've heard of countless others who have as well. Cause spring strut misalignment and can cause more force to be applied to the strut. Adjust via the top center nut but adjust Camber & Caster collectively. but its still a viable option.

Progress front and rear camber shims/platers I'm not to familiar on anyone actually using these so I don't know how well they work

K-Mac focus camber plates seen here. Similiar in design to the SPC plates, but use a spherical bearing to reduce spring strut misalignment and keep things center. Again, alignment is via top nut but adjusts Camber and Caster collectively. A much better option but cost $400+ from Austrailia.

F2 fixed camber plates fixed camber to -1.25*. maintains spring & strut alingment cheap. and seem to work well. No adjustment.

Kearny Racing also produces a slotted control arm w/ longer tie rods to adjust camber but just to fix a lowered cars alignment, I don't recommend them. More race use then anything.

I've got a set of these on order, should be getting here on teh 1st. so i'll let you know how they are.

Basically, SPC & K-Mac adjust via the top center nut on the strut to positon it where you want the camber to be at.
Sliding the strut in towrads the engine creates Negative camber and sliding it out towards the street create Positive camber.

Progress and F2 are fixed.

Excellent post. It sums up and explains all our options perfectly.

It seems every other day there is a post asking about camber correction.

This should be sticky'd at the top of this forum!!

-Nick

[808ZXthree]

I've got Progress on the fronts. They only allow positive adjustment up to 1*, in 1/4* increments.

With my Sportlines, my driver's front is still a bit off.

[mievil]

So say your camber is uneven up front, and one were to purchase the F2 plates, then your fronts would still be uneven, only now with more negative camber, correct? So it seems the only options are the SPCs, which everyone gripes about, or $400. :sad:

[DisrupTer911]

well, how uneven is it?

i don't think you'll ever get both sides exactly perfectly the same.

what you want to do is, make both sides as even as possible even if its just every so slightly off.

-1* and -1.2* arn't probably going to make a huge difference...

[mievil]

Anyone know if these would work? I don't know any of the measurements up there, so maybe someone who knows them could chime in?

http://www.ground-control-store.com/...ion.php/II=135

[mievil]

Just to throw this in here, reportedly up to 0.4 of negative camber can also be achieved by using front "crash bolts". The numbers for these parts are listed below:

W500550-S309 = BOLT (2 UNITS)
W703217-S309 = NUT (2 UNITS)

[pitchblack23]

One of FocalJet's new sponsors, Leo Capaldi Racing, now offers their own front camber plates. They seem very similar in design to the K-MAC parts, but they're cheaper. I'll let everyone know how they are once my set shows up.

[DisrupTer911]

Originally Posted by mievil

Anyone know if these would work? I don't know any of the measurements up there, so maybe someone who knows them could chime in?

http://www.ground-control-store.com/...ion.php/II=135

from waht i'd heard..

there was talk about some suby parts being interchangeable due to size and you could possibly make those work.

if you do a post way back with my name. look for soemthing in regards to

Independently adjustable caster and camber plates

there was a nice thread that I started bout that.

[Go2000gt]

Originally Posted by 808ZXthree

I've got Progress on the fronts. They only allow positive adjustment up to 1*, in 1/4* increments.

With my Sportlines, my driver's front is still a bit off.

What are you using in the back?

[808ZXthree]

^^ Eibach camber bolts

[leLady]

Wild Pony Motorsports recently became K-Mac's official U.S distributor and is now stocking the K-Mac camber caster plates because of the following differences from the other kits:

1.) They offer twice the adjustment - over 1" of travel - positive or negative camber and allow for SEPERATE CASTER adjustment - you don't have to split the difference!

2.) 30 SECONDS to change from Road to Race settings - (just the time to loosen the 3 strut mount nuts). All other designs feature separate hold down bolts which are time consuming and with the small tower hold in the Focus frustratingly restricted access.

3.) Because they are not an additional camber plate they do NOT RAISE THE VEHICLE HEIGHT!

4.) K-mac's design eliminates the OEM plastic encased bearing! It replaces it with a self aligning heavy duty spherical bearing and can be used with or with out coil over suspension!


Take a look at the installation instructions we have posted on our site

http://www.wildponymotorsports.com/p...idproduct=1233

and learn for yourself!

Oh - and they are only $329.99 including shipping!

[BadIdea]

2.) 30 SECONDS to change from Road to Race settings - (just the time to loosen the 3 strut mount nuts). All other designs feature separate hold down bolts which are time consuming and with the small tower hold in the Focus frustratingly restricted access.

And how long to re-adjust your toe?

[leLady]

That is a very good question.

Of course your toe settings will change when you adjust camber. To begin with, I must ask:

1.) What is the difference between your street toe setting and your race toe settings?

2.) How much does the camber change you do at the track affect your specific toe spec?

3.) Is that amount of change within the toe specifications for your race/street settings?

There are a lot of things that will change toe, the weight of the driver, fuel load, not to mention that different track configurations will require different settings. How far into toe and alignment adjustment do you want to go? The toe change resulting from a camber setting change can affect your bump steer settings as well. Where are those at currently and how much of a change does the camber and toe changes effect on the bump steer? How long does it take to adjust that? What I'm trying to say is its all relative.

For most people, the small change from street to race settings when adjusting the camber is ok. Most enthusiasts that are driving their cars on the street are driving them at the same alignment specifications as they would on the track because they want it to perform at its best all the time. They have added the plates because some other suspension change has required them to use them so that they can have the alignment where they want it. The other group - yes, they may change their alignment settings at the track, but how much effect those changes have on their specific cars toe settings with all the variables of their current suspension mods will be directly related to if they really need to/want to adjust the toe settings.

The true racers are going to adjust their suspension at every track and even multiple times during that track event. So the fact that the camber change affects the toe doesn't really matter because they would be adjusting it anyhow.

These camber plates just simply make the process easier and in our opinion are superior to the other products that we have seen which are available on the market.

That's what I know.....

Vicky

[BadIdea]

When I went from around -1 camber to -3, the toe went to 1" in. Camber changes make a huge diffence in toe, so I really don't see how you can make any changes without getting a re-align.

Now if the steering rack was in front of the strut it might help.

[03_SPI_Sedan]

While this thread does have alot of info, I still have a question- I just got KYB GR-2's and Eibach pro-kit springs installed the other day.

How badly do I need front and/or rear camber kits?

I hear that it increases negative camber, however I am still using stock rims and tires. Does this still apply?

I can't afford the camber kit right now and I drive alot, am I just running up my bill and am i going to be needing new tires very soon too?

[BadIdea]

Originally Posted by 03_SPI_Sedan

While this thread does have alot of info, I still have a question- I just got KYB GR-2's and Eibach pro-kit springs installed the other day.

How badly do I need front and/or rear camber kits?

I hear that it increases negative camber, however I am still using stock rims and tires. Does this still apply?

I can't afford the camber kit right now and I drive alot, am I just running up my bill and am i going to be needing new tires very soon too?

You should not need camber kits. Maybe for the rear you could buy the eibach bolts which aren't too much.

You do need an alignment to correct your toe. That is what kills tires.

[John B]

Originally Posted by pitchblack23

One of FocalJet's new sponsors, Leo Capaldi Racing, now offers their own front camber plates. They seem very similar in design to the K-MAC parts, but they're cheaper. I'll let everyone know how they are once my set shows up.

I second that

How do you like 'em?