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| Suspension Springs, dampers, coilovers, anti-roll bars and suspension tuning. |
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#1 |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 308
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I am going to start my Roush suspension install. I did not know if I should use anti seize or loctite when I reinstall the hard ware. Thanks
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#2 |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 308
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It is getting dark so I am going to start tomorrow. Is using the rear crossmember to jack up the back of the car ok? After I put the new stuff on I don't think my jack will go low enough if I use the pinch weld. I can use the emergency jack if I have to.
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#3 |
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Senior TEAM Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Metro Detroit
Posts: 1,303
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i would use jack stands because unless you have an INTERNAL spring compressor youll need the jack when you unbolt the rear controll arm to get the springs out and news in. Then you need to jack the rear LCA back up to get the bolt threw it with the new spring in it.
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03 Comp Orange SVTF |
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#4 |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 308
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Thanks. I am going to use jack stands. Before I had my focus I never used the pinch weld to lift my cars. I searched and most people say to use the pinch weld. I guess I will have to use an emergency jack.
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#5 |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Clarksville, TN
Posts: 912
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If you need to get the jack out from under the car and the car is too low use a 2x4 under the tire. It will give you some room.
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2003 LX, 2.3L, ATX, Arizona Biege sedan. -FocusSport front strut-bar -SCT tune by FocusSport -Eibach Sportline Springs -FocusSport CAI w/factory splashguard -LCR Front Camber plates -FocusSport Catback Exhaust -SPC Rear Upper Camber arms -Red Prothane Bushings (full kit) -28.6mm Steeda rear sway -24mm H&R front sway |
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#6 | |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 308
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Quote:
Good idea. Thanks |
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#7 |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Livonia, MI
Posts: 183
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I don't like using the pinch weld to raise the car, it tends to get all bent up. You are not supposed to lift in the middle if the rear crossmember either. I used one of the frame members on each side under the car. Somewhere online I found a diagram that shows the factory recommended lifting points. It might be on FocusHacks.
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#8 |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 308
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Thanks Maroon. I will take a look to online. I don't like to use the pinch weld either.
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#9 |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 308
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here we go. http://www.focushacks.com/index.php?modid=74 but still have to use the pinch weld to lift the car.
Last edited by duckmans : 12-29-2007 at 04:55 PM. |
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#10 |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Livonia, MI
Posts: 183
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I'm sure I did not use the pinch weld in the front or back. I don't recall exactly where, but there is some beefy looking frame material a little way in from the rocker panel in front of the rear wheel.
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#11 |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 308
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I will take a look. Thanks
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#12 |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 308
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My wife has to go to work so I did not get a lot done today. I was about to slap one of the rear springs in when I realized I don't know the difference form the top and bottom. If some one knows please let me know. I hope I can get the rear done tomorrow. Also does anyone use anti seize or loctite?
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#13 |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Clarksville, TN
Posts: 912
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I haven't used loctite or antiseize on my install.
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2003 LX, 2.3L, ATX, Arizona Biege sedan. -FocusSport front strut-bar -SCT tune by FocusSport -Eibach Sportline Springs -FocusSport CAI w/factory splashguard -LCR Front Camber plates -FocusSport Catback Exhaust -SPC Rear Upper Camber arms -Red Prothane Bushings (full kit) -28.6mm Steeda rear sway -24mm H&R front sway |
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#14 | |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 308
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Quote:
Thanks. Thats how I did it last time and everything seems ok taking everything apart this time. I have been searching all over and can not find anything about what is the top or bottom of the springs. Does it not mater? Last time I did a spring swap is was just the SVT springs and the coils were not that close on either side. |
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#15 |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Clarksville, TN
Posts: 912
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IDK really, but I installed mine "letters rightside-up"
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2003 LX, 2.3L, ATX, Arizona Biege sedan. -FocusSport front strut-bar -SCT tune by FocusSport -Eibach Sportline Springs -FocusSport CAI w/factory splashguard -LCR Front Camber plates -FocusSport Catback Exhaust -SPC Rear Upper Camber arms -Red Prothane Bushings (full kit) -28.6mm Steeda rear sway -24mm H&R front sway |
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#16 |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 308
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No letters on mine
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#17 |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 308
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This sucks. I don't have much time tomorrow either. I think I will just start on the other side. I still need to install one more camber alignment bolt. I hope someone can give me a clue about the springs.
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#18 | |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Livonia, MI
Posts: 183
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Quote:
I did not use any Loctite. If the lower rear control arm bolt comes out easily, then you are lucky. I would recommend antisieze compound on that bolt at least. I usually put antisieze on all of my undercar threads. As far as the spring, I don't think it matters which side is up. I would probably put the tighter coils on the bottom. They are the ones that compress first on a progressive spring. |
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#19 |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Clarksville, TN
Posts: 912
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OK. I checked mine out. Flip your pic upside down. V like this V
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2003 LX, 2.3L, ATX, Arizona Biege sedan. -FocusSport front strut-bar -SCT tune by FocusSport -Eibach Sportline Springs -FocusSport CAI w/factory splashguard -LCR Front Camber plates -FocusSport Catback Exhaust -SPC Rear Upper Camber arms -Red Prothane Bushings (full kit) -28.6mm Steeda rear sway -24mm H&R front sway |
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#20 |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Clarksville, TN
Posts: 912
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The fronts were easy. They seat good if they are in correctly.The rear. the spring compresses from the bottom then that means it would get much stiffer faster the more you were to compress it.
i.e. the closer the coils are together the more resistance there is.
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2003 LX, 2.3L, ATX, Arizona Biege sedan. -FocusSport front strut-bar -SCT tune by FocusSport -Eibach Sportline Springs -FocusSport CAI w/factory splashguard -LCR Front Camber plates -FocusSport Catback Exhaust -SPC Rear Upper Camber arms -Red Prothane Bushings (full kit) -28.6mm Steeda rear sway -24mm H&R front sway |
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#21 |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 308
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Thanks for the advice. I found this pic of them. So the rear springs in this pic look correct. How about the fronts? I will probably use antiseize. It was probably easy this time because I took everything off less than a year ago. I only have about 2 hrs of work on the car today so I will probably work on getting the other camber bolt in. Thanks again for the advice. Any other advice is welcome.
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#22 | |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 308
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Quote:
I talked to my dad and he told me basically the same thing. I think I miss read this the first time. Thanks again for the help. |
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#23 |
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Rookie
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 41
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any update?
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#24 |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 308
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Rear is done. I just need to put the front struts in and I am done. I will still need an alignment. I did get some front sway bar bushings so I guess I will put those in also.
I do want to double check the rear end links. I here to tighten them to 11 ft/lbs but the last time I did that I ran out of threads on the bolts. |
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#25 |
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TEAM Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 308
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Well that was nice of ford to cross thread one of the bolts that holds the sway bar in. I did not pull the bolt out all the way. The new bushings are in but I still need to torque everything down. I hope that bolts goes in ok.
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