SVTF Front Sway-bar Install (SVT Specific)

[getn2focus]

SVTF FSB Swap: Stock to whatever size you choose.

This is obviously for a SVT Focus front sway bar swap. The bar I chose is the H&R 24mm FSB.

*This is meant to be a guide to help other fellow FocalJet members with the SVTF who think/want/will change theirs out. Therefore, I can’t and will not be held liable for ones action!

This swap took me roughly 6-8 hours. I’ll admit that I wasn’t fully prepared for this. I had to make some breaks to get some tools/sockets/wrenchs as I didn’t have them. And it didn’t help I started so late in the afternoon either…..but anyways…Thanks to some help who posted in my thread I was able to get a somewhat idea of what this swap was going to be like. Personally, I didn’t find that all that helpful. So I decided I would do a detailed write up with detail pix so anyone can reference this thread when need be. Maybe this even could become sticky status.

On with the process shall we…….


Step One: Gather Equipment

1-jack(s) and jack-stands
2- breaker bar (the one I used was a 2 foot; it was half inch drive)
3- torque wrench(half inch drive as well)
4- ½ , 13/16, 15mm open/box wrenchs
5- 15mm and 18mm sockets ( ½ drive preferably)
6- 5.5mm allan wrench
7- more importantly-----time and patience!

*Note: This process would be best done a flat surface, AND would be advised to have an extra set of hands that can help get things done.


Step Two: Prepping the car for transplant

This covers the steps required to get the car ready to start the transplant.

1-Scotch both rear wheels off properly. Picked these up at Wal-Mart for cheap.

http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/p..._scothced1.jpg

2-Break wheel lugs loose while all four tires are still on the ground. (DO NOT remove lugs just yet!)

3-Now with the lugs broken loose, we now need to get the front end in the air. Jack one side of the car to a safe height to remove the front wheel.

4-Before removing the tire, place a jack-stand in an appropriate location under the car.

http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/p...dlocation1.jpg

5-Now you can remove the front wheel.

http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/p...jackstand1.jpg

6,7, & 8- Steps 6,7, and 8 are to repeat steps 3,4, and 5 for the other side of the car.



Step Three: The Transplant

Now we have the car safely prepped, and then front wheels/tires removed, we can now start the uninstall/install process. Time for surgery.

1-We first need to undo the swaybar endlinks. This is where the 5 ½ mm allan wrench and 15mm wrench work. This can be done more than one way. Basically just need to get the endlinks undone.

http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/p...lanwrench1.jpg
http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/p...lanwrench1.jpg

2-Once the endlinks are loose, go ahead and remove the endlinks from the swaybar itself. The nut from the endlink I placed back on the stud after removing it from the swaybar. Now we have one side done, we need to undo the other side.

3-Now we have the swaybar endlinks undone we can now move to the subframe. This is where an extra set of hands can come in really good use.

http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/p...inkundone1.jpg

*On the subframe there are a total on 10 nuts/bolts holding the subframe to the frame of the car; 5 on each (right/left hand) side. On each side there is one bolt that I would consider the upper subframe bolt (leaving four on the lower portion of the subframe…..pix show this) Three of the five bolts on each side you can remove youself. These three bolts actually hold up the subframe. One of these three bolts are the upper subframe bolts (15mm). The other two are two lower subframe bolts that are 18mm.

The other two are bolts with nuts on top. These actually hold part of the lower control arm to the subframe. These two bolts will require the help of the extra set of hands.

-The pictures below show the left and right hand side lower subframe bolts. The two on each picture with the yellow circles are the bolts with nuts on top (LCA). The bolts circled in yellow will require 15mm, 18mm sockets with a 13/16 wrench.

Right Side subframe bolts

http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/p...ramebolts2.jpg

Left side subframe bolts

http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/p...ramebolts2.jpg

The picture below shows the upper subframe bolt. (again, 15mm)

http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/p...framebolt1.jpg

4-Now we know the wild setup for the subframe, we can go ahead and remove all the lower bolts.

5-Before we remove the upper subframe bolts, support the lower subframe with a jack(s).

6-Slowly undo the upper subframe bolts.

7-The upper subframe bolts should be the last of them to remove. Remember those jacks? We will need to use those to help lower the subframe to access the swaybar.

*Now, Some might not have noticed, some might have. I didn’t remove the dog-bone style lower motor mount bolts. This motor mount bolts to the subframe. I didn’t un-bolt it for two reasons: 1) it acts like a hinge for the front portion of the subframe which leads to number two. Number 2) It keeps the subframe connected to a central location. Keeping it connected makes everything line up much better than completely removing the subframe.

8-Now that the subframe is lowered, we should be able to access the swaybar at this point. The swaybar is held to the subframe with two ½ inch bolts on each side. These four bolts aren’t the easiest by all means. These will require patience as these are in limited space.

These two are the right hand side. (looking at them from the side with the wheel off.

http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/p...osubframe2.jpg

This is looking at the sway bar from underneath the car.

http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/p...s/S6300462.jpg

9-Once you have these four bolts removed, we can move the brackets from the tops. Now all you got to do is remove the bar. You’ll have to snake it out like a Chinese puzzle. (hint: remove old swaybar bushings)

This is the subframe with the sway bar removed.

http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/p...amelowered.jpg

10-With the old stock bar removed, we can now insert the bigger better bar. (remember how you tok the old puny bar out?) Attach the new bar with the four ½ inch bolts with the brackets on top

http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/p...rinstalled.jpg


Step Four: Sewing up the patient

-With the new swaybar installed, we got to sew everything back together.
-Sewing up the patient should be somewhat easy if you were able to remove the front stock piece. This is just the reversal of the uninstallation.

Step Five: Testing (Enjoyment)

-The patient all sewn up together now should now be run through a series of tests to acquire improvement results over the original piece. Open/closed parking lot worked for me.
-For me, the 24mm H&R FSB really compliments the 28mm RSB from Steeda.

[svtazz]

Awesome pictures, great note's, thanks soo much.

[getn2focus]

[svo_dave]

What did you use to align the subframe?

[OmniFocus]

It looks like you took a bit more complicated route than I usually do.

I just remove the six bolts that attach the subframe to the car (there are ONLY six), and then remove the dogbone from the transaxle.

I then let it hang down by the control arms... that gives plenty of room for access to get it out.

Before removing the crossmember I scribe the position into the body with a sharp object... it needs to be aligned on the car to prevent wheel alignment issues.

Also, none of that is SVT specific... it is just another Focus as far as those parts are concerned.

[svtf02red]

Wow, yes, that is the complicated method. But you did manage to get it swapped - props for that. I wish my GTI allowed swaps this easy - you pretty much have to drop the whole subframe to prevent insanity from setting in while trying to install the bar bushings.

[illinipo]

hmm... friend and I pulled his bar out without touching the subframe bolts a couple weeks ago...

[sleestak]

Those bolts that mount the sway bar to the sub-frame are a royal pain to get to, esp if you have giant hands.

One way to do this is to get a 4' long extension and a universal and go down the back of the engine to access them. It made things MUCH easier ... an extra set of hands to guide your socket helps as well.

[illinipo]

well... we did have a lift... lol

[getn2focus]

Well. I'll stand corrected. You're correct in the fact there are only 6 bolts that actually hold the subframe. the other four I dealt with where holding the LCA's to the subframe. Personally, I thought this was actually an easier way. I was able to get to everything much easier at least for me.

Too each his own however. I really couldn't find much in the way for the differences of the SVT or a regular Focus. I did with the help of a post find a less detailed write up from FF that showed a regular Zetec. Now maybe it was the less detail in that write-up, but it did seem a bit different from the SVT.

As for the alignment of the subframe, I never removed the dogbone motor mount. That left a connection point to the subframe. It acted like a hinge for the subframe and I could raise/lower the subframe with a jack.

*sighs.....* I wish I had a lift.

[OmniFocus]

Originally Posted by getn2focus

As for the alignment of the subframe, I never removed the dogbone motor mount. That left a connection point to the subframe. It acted like a hinge for the subframe and I could raise/lower the subframe with a jack.

Unfortunately that won't preserve alignment of the subframe to the chassis.

If that is off, the caster or camber settings will shift... also, your toe settings aren't preserved once the LCAs are unbolted from the subframe. There is a lot of slop in those holes.

Everything *might* be just fine, but I'd get an alignment with a printout.

[svtf02red]

Originally Posted by OmniFocus

Unfortunately that won't preserve alignment of the subframe to the chassis.

If that is off, the caster or camber settings will shift... also, your toe settings aren't preserved once the LCAs are unbolted from the subframe. There is a lot of slop in those holes.

Everything *might* be just fine, but I'd get an alignment with a printout.

Yes, & nothing sucks worse than trying to "eyeball" your thrust angle w/o having an alignment rack. Hell, if I have to drop a subframe, I make as many alignment marks as I can before so much as spraying down the bolts with PB Blaster.

[illinipo]

Originally Posted by svtf02red

before so much as spraying down the bolts with PB Blaster.

...and end up losing your sharpie marks lol

[svtf02red]

Originally Posted by illinipo

...and end up losing your sharpie marks lol

Sharpie? F that, I use a cold chisel - just in case I have to do it again

[getn2focus]

I honestly don't see how it could be thrown out of alignment. I was planning on getting an aligment soon anyways I have new shocks/struts to install.

The dog-bone mount would have kept everything inline and seemed to do so when I jacked it back up to put all the bolts back in. I was able to get the LCA bolts to go through the subframe no problem. And, other then unbolting the LCA's from the subframe, I never unbolted anything else suspension wise.

I'm not trying to seem like a smarta** or anything. It's just this was the first time I have actually messed with the subframe of the SVT. I'm not discrediting anything you all are saying either. Guess I'm trying to say that I appreciate your time to reply with your concerns/thoughts. Just letting everyone know what I had experienced when swapping it out.

[illinipo]

The slightest movement of the subframe to the right or left will make the car "dogtrack" aka it will have a thrust angle. This will eat up tires like crazy.

[getn2focus]

Oooh. I see now. Thanks for clarifying that. Like I said, I have my suspension to install soon so I will be getting the alignment checked for sure.

[svo_dave]

Has anyone tried just using the alignment pins ford sells? I was think of ordering some if they would get the job done.

[illinipo]

Usually when you see "Use Ford special tool #_____" you're looking at $60-100 for the tool...

[Take_That_Subspace!]

What does the tool look like? Is it something to center the subframe bolt holes to the frame bolt holes?

Great write up by the way.

[illinipo]

I would guess they are just dowels that go in the holes in the back end of the subframe and also the two near the front sort of closer to the middle. if youve spent as much time under a focus as i have you will understand what im trying to say lol