Proper Break in...... From the Experts??? - Focaljet

**Thameth** · 08-27-2001, 11:58 PM

Well, we've had many a discussion here on the Jet pondering what is the proper way of Breaking in a new engine. From Drive it like u stole it, drive like grandma, Take a long trip, and so on.... But since we have the resources of being able to ask questions directly to SVT i think its time to ask the real experts the best way to Break in our new SVT when we pick them up at our dealer lots in a few months.

So, Pam, Troy, Mandi(?) or anybody else from SVT if u could do us a great favor. How do they break in the SVT test mules? Or what break in do u say we should use? We'd really appreciate any info u can give us. Thanks!

------------------
www.focaljet.com
"I'm Focus Maaaan..." -Jay Z

**zx2hot** · 08-28-2001, 08:40 AM

According to SVT's website, take it easy for the first 1500 miles avoiding the high rpms. Then slowly stretch it out. Also dont brake hard for the first 300 miles.

To find it yourself go to www.svt.ford.com then click on inside svt then click faq's.

**BLKZX3** · 08-28-2001, 10:19 AM

Break ins are stupid. How am I supposed to enter the freeway here in the land of 80+?
Less than 24 hours after picking up my ZX3 I had to slam on my brakes in a rain storm. These things can't be helped sometimes. Engines should be properly broken in and the cvar should be ready to go before the custome gets it. No more babying the darn things. Performance cars are made to be driven.

**wrk4svt** · 08-28-2001, 04:20 PM

zx2hot has got it right. Also, the first 1500 miles should not be long extended periods of travel. Mix the driving between highway and city.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Engines should be properly broken in and the cvar should be ready to go before the custome gets it. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I'm sure that could be worked out. That is if you're willing to buy a "new" vehicle with 1500 miles on it.

Troy

**Slayer420** · 08-28-2001, 05:05 PM

This may be a dumb idea, but the idea of buying a car with 1500 miles isn't bad other then the fact that there would probably be some road nicks and stuff in the paint. On the other hand, I would think that it should be possible to simulate 1500 miles on an engine before ever putting it into an car. I know it will never happen, but it is a valid idea.

**BigRed** · 08-28-2001, 05:21 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by wrk4svt:
zx2hot has got it right. Also, the first 1500 miles should not be long extended periods of travel. Mix the driving between highway and city.

I'm sure that could be worked out. That is if you're willing to buy a "new" vehicle with 1500 miles on it.

Troy<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Since they would be used "fleet" cars, $13,000 ($15,000 fully loaded) would be about right!

p.s. That must be the reason for the delay.

p.p.s. If you need more break-in drivers, I'm available!

**Ducman69** · 08-29-2001, 03:10 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>I'm sure that could be worked out. That is if you're willing to buy a "new" vehicle with 1500 miles on it.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Glad you said it, as I was about to.

Just about any new combustion engine has a break-in period. Some are more critical and or require a longer duration than others. For modern cars, its really really easy. Just avoid the highways until you've gone through two tanks of gas. You can still get around using the backroads of your city. And the stop lights are perfect for breaking in the engine.

**Thameth** · 08-29-2001, 11:10 AM

Hey Troy,

Glad to see u come out of Hiding man!

Also thanks for the info and clearing up the debate. I've always gone with a mix of pushing the car once in a while during breakin while driving it under the guidelines 90% of the time. I've always noticed with honda's that if u grandma them they end up slow, but if u push them once and a while and once past 1500miles u push them hard for a while they end up feeling faster. Could all be boooeey but hey it makes me feel all lil better hehe.

------------------
www.focaljet.com
"I'm Focus Maaaan..." -Jay Z

**Ducman69** · 08-29-2001, 03:35 PM

Well the common advice is "vary the RPMs". That means a couple shots up to redline (after the first hundred miles at least) are great. Just don't hold it at high RPMs.

Just know that the worst thing you can do is drive at high constant speeds on the freeway. Avoid doing that and you'll be fine.

**Ozmotear** · 08-29-2001, 07:57 PM

I had been informed that the engines were run for 1000 miles before they are even installed. Is this true? If so break ins aren't really necessary. (except for brakes and so forth)

**SilverSVT** · 08-30-2001, 05:04 PM

Well it takes a couple hundred miles for the pistons and piston sleeves to "match up" with each other. Thats why your not recommended to run Synthic oil until 3-6000 mile are on the motor.

Scott

------------------
1998 Mustang GT for now..
Mods:
K&N
Pro 5.0 Shifter
Steeda Tri-axe shifter handle
White Gauge Faces
Koieng Villains with 255/45/17s

**Focused** · 08-31-2001, 11:31 AM

Thanks! Thameth asked my question, and Troy and the Focaljet crew cleared it up. The same method of breaking in the SVT applies to the stock ZX3 Zetec right? I think my car is slower than its potential because I think i pushed it too hard and more than i should have during its break-in period. =(

eric

**focaljet-1** · 09-02-2001, 09:56 AM

Personally I would not recommend switching to synthetic oil until 10K+ miles.

Changing to synthetic too soon may not allow proper seating of all components. Synthetic can be very good for prolonging engine life but used early on it can almost be "too" good.

**Ducman69** · 09-02-2001, 10:45 AM

10K? Kinda excessive if you ask me. I would consider my engine pretty much broken in by near 1K miles and start driving harder. Surely by the first oil change, I'd think you are fine.

**focaljet-1** · 09-02-2001, 11:44 PM

I didn't say anything about not driving harder (the Focus manual states while there is no exact break-in procedure that you should vary RPMs for the first 1000 miles).

My point was not to change to a Synthetic oil (i.e. Mobil 1, Redline, etc. not Castrol Syntec, which is not really synthetic). There is no way that your rings are seated at 1K miles. Until they are you will continue to burn oil, using synthetic will just prolong the time it takes to seat them.

There are as many theories as there are oils but I subscribe to the wait at least to the second or third oil change (around 10K) before going synthetic.

Some people would say even that is too quick, while others say I changed to Mobil 1 at 600 miles.

Here is some good reading on the subject:
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng9.shtml

This pertains to filters and is very interesting: http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html

If you learn one thing, don't use Fram filters!

------------------
To reach me by email please use this address wrcfan@teamfocaljet.com

**Ducman69** · 09-03-2001, 01:11 AM

Thank you for the links Ron! I've just finished printing out the first five pages and will read that before I go to bed. And about the Fram filters though... duhhh!

Just skimming through so far, they did point out one thing that I try to convey to others. If you are using synthetic, unless you are in really extreme conditions, there is NO REASON to change your oil at 3K miles.

The manufacture sets the standards for regular dino oil, and thats why the intervals are so very short. Synthetics should be able to last 3X as long with no problems.

**focaljet-1** · 09-03-2001, 10:16 AM

Duc,

You are absolutely right about the 3K change. It was a marketing gimmick invented by the oil companies and basically started the boom of quick oil change facilities.

Maybe in 70s and earlier it was true, but modern cars can easily go 5K+ between changes with no ill effect.

The trend is to produce engines that require LESS maintainence. As biker16 reported in a post about a week ago the the next gen Ford engines will be slated to have regular change intervals at 12.5K.

And if I'm not mistaken the current VW VR6 change interval is at 10K.

So people, save your money.

This is such a good topic, I'm going to start it in the Zetec fourm so more people get in on the debate!

**SilverSVT** · 09-03-2001, 03:34 PM

Just my two cents on oil...

Oil is used in a engine for lubration purposes(duh

)and to help cool the engine. The job of an Oil Filter of course is to filter out any media that might get into the oil, before it fowls up interal compents like your oil pump, etc.

Normally Your Oil Filter is just about useless after a couple hundred miles since the filter media inside of it gets cloged up by little shavings etc in it, that where inside your oil.

Synthic oil is usally normally better then your typical Dino type Oil. Its best suited for applications that have a high heat load like on gas turbine engines or in situtations on where the changing the oil isnt all that practical do to localation etc..

As for oil changes....well I like the 3K oil change theory myself...doing oil changes every 3K is cheap insurance for the heath of your engine, esp if you do it yourself. How can you go wrong for $10 bucks an oil change if you can do it yourself?

I run synthics in my Mustang now....$30 dollars an oil change is a bit much but I have piece of mind that its done right and I don't have to sweat it too much if I go over a 1K or 2 over that 3K mile limit if you will call that.

Just my two cents on the subject matter....

Scott

------------------
1998 Mustang GT for now..
Mods:
K&N
Pro 5.0 Shifter
Steeda Tri-axe shifter handle
White Gauge Faces
Koieng Villains with 255/45/17s

**OTTOMATIC** · 02-19-2002, 01:38 PM

<blockquote>quote:<hr>Originally posted by zx2hot:
According to SVT's website, take it easy for the first 1500 miles avoiding the high rpms. Then slowly stretch it out. Also dont brake hard for the first 300 miles.

To find it yourself go to www.svt.ford.com then click on inside svt then click faq's.<hr></blockquote>

I can't find this info on SVT's website...anyone know if it is still there somewhere?

Any more input on proper break in of the engine?

**Peloton25** · 02-19-2002, 01:58 PM

I was able to find the FAQ's, but that info appears to be missing now. What was stated above sounds like very good advice though.

>8^)
ER

**SVT-STi-M** · 02-19-2002, 02:00 PM

Changing you oil every 3k may be a marketing ploy, but who cares. If you're really so damn cheap not to spend 20 bucks on an oil change every few months, you deserve to have your car sh*t the bed. Or should I say it this way: Why not baby your car with new oil, you treat it like crap most of the time anyway don't you.

**ModMan** · 02-19-2002, 04:18 PM

Let me put my $.02 in on the break in subject... It takes the rings approx. 1500-2000 miles to properly seat to the bore. It will depend on the specific engine family and will also vary engine to engine within that family. What you are risking prior to break in is an increase in oil consumption (blowby past the rings into the combustion chamber) if you drive the car "hard". However, unless you are driving the car at WOT up to redline all the time prior to seating the rings there is no real risk to the engine with this (even then the risk is extremely low worst case). Varying the load and rpm on the engine will help expedite the break in process, though, so if it makes you feel good you can try to vary the drive cycles as much as possible - although it (ring seating that is) will occur naturally anyways... other than that I would just change the oil after about the first 2k miles, then in 3k intervals after that... [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

[ 02-19-2002: Message edited by: ModMan ]

**P_Laz** · 02-19-2002, 05:43 PM

Don't forget about those all important brakes. If you plan on any track work, you sould plan a proper burnish session, consisting of about 30-50 stops of around 0.5gs. Also, if you are changin pads or rotors make sure you burnish new pads on old rotors and vice versa.

P Laz

**Peloton25** · 02-19-2002, 05:52 PM

Cool - can I borrow your G-meter, I seem to have misplaced mine. [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img]

>8^)
ER

02-19-2002, 05:53 PM

Ok...I'm trying to add any confusion, but I just got my first oil at Ford's dealer (since they give me free coupon) change last week when I hit about 2,300.
I asked the guy if I can upgrade for syn. oil, he said "For year 2001 + we use syn. oil for ford cars" I thought I he's smoking, but after verified with the mechanic inside, he's right.
Well, I have my car with 2,400 miles, with Motorcraft syn. oil now. Hope it turns out OK..

[img]images/icons/rolleyes.gif[/img]

=A=

08-27-2001, 11:58 PM	#1
Thameth Administrator Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: North Miami Beach, FL USA Posts: 37,597	Proper Break in...... From the Experts??? Well, we've had many a discussion here on the Jet pondering what is the proper way of Breaking in a new engine. From Drive it like u stole it, drive like grandma, Take a long trip, and so on.... But since we have the resources of being able to ask questions directly to SVT i think its time to ask the real experts the best way to Break in our new SVT when we pick them up at our dealer lots in a few months. So, Pam, Troy, Mandi(?) or anybody else from SVT if u could do us a great favor. How do they break in the SVT test mules? Or what break in do u say we should use? We'd really appreciate any info u can give us. Thanks! ------------------ www.focaljet.com "I'm Focus Maaaan..." -Jay Z

08-28-2001, 08:40 AM	#2
zx2hot Rookie Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Ringgold,Ga Posts: 23	Re: Proper Break in...... From the Experts??? According to SVT's website, take it easy for the first 1500 miles avoiding the high rpms. Then slowly stretch it out. Also dont brake hard for the first 300 miles. To find it yourself go to www.svt.ford.com then click on inside svt then click faq's.

08-28-2001, 10:19 AM	#3
BLKZX3 TEAM Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: San Diego, CA USA Posts: 205	Re: Proper Break in...... From the Experts??? Break ins are stupid. How am I supposed to enter the freeway here in the land of 80+? Less than 24 hours after picking up my ZX3 I had to slam on my brakes in a rain storm. These things can't be helped sometimes. Engines should be properly broken in and the cvar should be ready to go before the custome gets it. No more babying the darn things. Performance cars are made to be driven.

08-28-2001, 04:20 PM	#4
wrk4svt Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Dearborn, MI Posts: 70	Re: Proper Break in...... From the Experts??? zx2hot has got it right. Also, the first 1500 miles should not be long extended periods of travel. Mix the driving between highway and city. <BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Engines should be properly broken in and the cvar should be ready to go before the custome gets it. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> I'm sure that could be worked out. That is if you're willing to buy a "new" vehicle with 1500 miles on it. Troy

08-28-2001, 05:05 PM	#5
Slayer420 Senior TEAM Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Indianapolis, IN, USA Posts: 1,588	Re: Proper Break in...... From the Experts??? This may be a dumb idea, but the idea of buying a car with 1500 miles isn't bad other then the fact that there would probably be some road nicks and stuff in the paint. On the other hand, I would think that it should be possible to simulate 1500 miles on an engine before ever putting it into an car. I know it will never happen, but it is a valid idea.

08-28-2001, 05:21 PM	#6
BigRed TEAM Member Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Omaha, Nebraska USA Posts: 339	Re: Proper Break in...... From the Experts??? <BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by wrk4svt: zx2hot has got it right. Also, the first 1500 miles should not be long extended periods of travel. Mix the driving between highway and city. I'm sure that could be worked out. That is if you're willing to buy a "new" vehicle with 1500 miles on it. Troy<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Since they would be used "fleet" cars, $13,000 ($15,000 fully loaded) would be about right! p.s. That must be the reason for the delay. p.p.s. If you need more break-in drivers, I'm available!

08-29-2001, 03:10 AM	#7
Ducman69 I pretend to know everything. Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: van by the river Posts: 18,745	Re: Proper Break in...... From the Experts??? <BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>I'm sure that could be worked out. That is if you're willing to buy a "new" vehicle with 1500 miles on it.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Glad you said it, as I was about to. Just about any new combustion engine has a break-in period. Some are more critical and or require a longer duration than others. For modern cars, its really really easy. Just avoid the highways until you've gone through two tanks of gas. You can still get around using the backroads of your city. And the stop lights are perfect for breaking in the engine.

08-29-2001, 11:10 AM	#8
Thameth Administrator Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: North Miami Beach, FL USA Posts: 37,597	Re: Proper Break in...... From the Experts??? Hey Troy, Glad to see u come out of Hiding man! Also thanks for the info and clearing up the debate. I've always gone with a mix of pushing the car once in a while during breakin while driving it under the guidelines 90% of the time. I've always noticed with honda's that if u grandma them they end up slow, but if u push them once and a while and once past 1500miles u push them hard for a while they end up feeling faster. Could all be boooeey but hey it makes me feel all lil better hehe. ------------------ www.focaljet.com "I'm Focus Maaaan..." -Jay Z

08-29-2001, 03:35 PM	#9
Ducman69 I pretend to know everything. Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: van by the river Posts: 18,745	Re: Proper Break in...... From the Experts??? Well the common advice is "vary the RPMs". That means a couple shots up to redline (after the first hundred miles at least) are great. Just don't hold it at high RPMs. Just know that the worst thing you can do is drive at high constant speeds on the freeway. Avoid doing that and you'll be fine.

08-29-2001, 07:57 PM	#10
Ozmotear [FJ] Specialist Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: The Garden State Posts: 7,218	Re: Proper Break in...... From the Experts??? I had been informed that the engines were run for 1000 miles before they are even installed. Is this true? If so break ins aren't really necessary. (except for brakes and so forth)

08-30-2001, 05:04 PM	#11
SilverSVT Senior TEAM Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: NJ Posts: 4,972	Re: Proper Break in...... From the Experts??? Well it takes a couple hundred miles for the pistons and piston sleeves to "match up" with each other. Thats why your not recommended to run Synthic oil until 3-6000 mile are on the motor. Scott ------------------ 1998 Mustang GT for now.. Mods: K&N Pro 5.0 Shifter Steeda Tri-axe shifter handle White Gauge Faces Koieng Villains with 255/45/17s

08-31-2001, 11:31 AM	#12
Focused Senior TEAM Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Yonkers Posts: 4,844	Re: Proper Break in...... From the Experts??? Thanks! Thameth asked my question, and Troy and the Focaljet crew cleared it up. The same method of breaking in the SVT applies to the stock ZX3 Zetec right? I think my car is slower than its potential because I think i pushed it too hard and more than i should have during its break-in period. =( eric

09-02-2001, 09:56 AM	#13
focaljet-1 Small Car Czar Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: On the RotorMedia helipad Posts: 29,076	Re: Proper Break in...... From the Experts??? Personally I would not recommend switching to synthetic oil until 10K+ miles. Changing to synthetic too soon may not allow proper seating of all components. Synthetic can be very good for prolonging engine life but used early on it can almost be "too" good.

09-02-2001, 10:45 AM	#14
Ducman69 I pretend to know everything. Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: van by the river Posts: 18,745	Re: Proper Break in...... From the Experts??? 10K? Kinda excessive if you ask me. I would consider my engine pretty much broken in by near 1K miles and start driving harder. Surely by the first oil change, I'd think you are fine.

09-02-2001, 11:44 PM	#15
focaljet-1 Small Car Czar Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: On the RotorMedia helipad Posts: 29,076	Re: Proper Break in...... From the Experts??? I didn't say anything about not driving harder (the Focus manual states while there is no exact break-in procedure that you should vary RPMs for the first 1000 miles). My point was not to change to a Synthetic oil (i.e. Mobil 1, Redline, etc. not Castrol Syntec, which is not really synthetic). There is no way that your rings are seated at 1K miles. Until they are you will continue to burn oil, using synthetic will just prolong the time it takes to seat them. There are as many theories as there are oils but I subscribe to the wait at least to the second or third oil change (around 10K) before going synthetic. Some people would say even that is too quick, while others say I changed to Mobil 1 at 600 miles. Here is some good reading on the subject: http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng9.shtml This pertains to filters and is very interesting: http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html If you learn one thing, don't use Fram filters! ------------------ To reach me by email please use this address wrcfan@teamfocaljet.com

09-03-2001, 01:11 AM	#16
Ducman69 I pretend to know everything. Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: van by the river Posts: 18,745	Re: Proper Break in...... From the Experts??? Thank you for the links Ron! I've just finished printing out the first five pages and will read that before I go to bed. And about the Fram filters though... duhhh! Just skimming through so far, they did point out one thing that I try to convey to others. If you are using synthetic, unless you are in really extreme conditions, there is NO REASON to change your oil at 3K miles. The manufacture sets the standards for regular dino oil, and thats why the intervals are so very short. Synthetics should be able to last 3X as long with no problems.

09-03-2001, 10:16 AM	#17
focaljet-1 Small Car Czar Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: On the RotorMedia helipad Posts: 29,076	Re: Proper Break in...... From the Experts??? Duc, You are absolutely right about the 3K change. It was a marketing gimmick invented by the oil companies and basically started the boom of quick oil change facilities. Maybe in 70s and earlier it was true, but modern cars can easily go 5K+ between changes with no ill effect. The trend is to produce engines that require LESS maintainence. As biker16 reported in a post about a week ago the the next gen Ford engines will be slated to have regular change intervals at 12.5K. And if I'm not mistaken the current VW VR6 change interval is at 10K. So people, save your money. This is such a good topic, I'm going to start it in the Zetec fourm so more people get in on the debate!

09-03-2001, 03:34 PM	#18
SilverSVT Senior TEAM Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: NJ Posts: 4,972	Re: Proper Break in...... From the Experts??? Just my two cents on oil... Oil is used in a engine for lubration purposes(duh )and to help cool the engine. The job of an Oil Filter of course is to filter out any media that might get into the oil, before it fowls up interal compents like your oil pump, etc. Normally Your Oil Filter is just about useless after a couple hundred miles since the filter media inside of it gets cloged up by little shavings etc in it, that where inside your oil. Synthic oil is usally normally better then your typical Dino type Oil. Its best suited for applications that have a high heat load like on gas turbine engines or in situtations on where the changing the oil isnt all that practical do to localation etc.. As for oil changes....well I like the 3K oil change theory myself...doing oil changes every 3K is cheap insurance for the heath of your engine, esp if you do it yourself. How can you go wrong for $10 bucks an oil change if you can do it yourself? I run synthics in my Mustang now....$30 dollars an oil change is a bit much but I have piece of mind that its done right and I don't have to sweat it too much if I go over a 1K or 2 over that 3K mile limit if you will call that. Just my two cents on the subject matter.... Scott ------------------ 1998 Mustang GT for now.. Mods: K&N Pro 5.0 Shifter Steeda Tri-axe shifter handle White Gauge Faces Koieng Villains with 255/45/17s

02-19-2002, 01:38 PM	#19
OTTOMATIC Senior TEAM Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Portland, OR 97035 Posts: 1,931	Re: Proper Break in...... From the Experts??? <blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by zx2hot: According to SVT's website, take it easy for the first 1500 miles avoiding the high rpms. Then slowly stretch it out. Also dont brake hard for the first 300 miles. To find it yourself go to www.svt.ford.com then click on inside svt then click faq's.<hr></blockquote> I can't find this info on SVT's website...anyone know if it is still there somewhere? Any more input on proper break in of the engine?

02-19-2002, 01:58 PM	#20
Peloton25 Mr Know-It-All Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Moorpark, CA USA Posts: 21,779	Re: Proper Break in...... From the Experts??? I was able to find the FAQ's, but that info appears to be missing now. What was stated above sounds like very good advice though. >8^) ER

02-19-2002, 02:00 PM	#21
SVT-STi-M TEAM Member Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: LA, CA Posts: 211	Re: Proper Break in...... From the Experts??? Changing you oil every 3k may be a marketing ploy, but who cares. If you're really so damn cheap not to spend 20 bucks on an oil change every few months, you deserve to have your car sh*t the bed. Or should I say it this way: Why not baby your car with new oil, you treat it like crap most of the time anyway don't you.

02-19-2002, 04:18 PM	#22
ModMan TEAM Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Whitmore Lake, MI USA Posts: 132	Re: Proper Break in...... From the Experts??? Let me put my $.02 in on the break in subject... It takes the rings approx. 1500-2000 miles to properly seat to the bore. It will depend on the specific engine family and will also vary engine to engine within that family. What you are risking prior to break in is an increase in oil consumption (blowby past the rings into the combustion chamber) if you drive the car "hard". However, unless you are driving the car at WOT up to redline all the time prior to seating the rings there is no real risk to the engine with this (even then the risk is extremely low worst case). Varying the load and rpm on the engine will help expedite the break in process, though, so if it makes you feel good you can try to vary the drive cycles as much as possible - although it (ring seating that is) will occur naturally anyways... other than that I would just change the oil after about the first 2k miles, then in 3k intervals after that... [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img] [ 02-19-2002: Message edited by: ModMan ]</p>

02-19-2002, 05:43 PM	#23
P_Laz TEAM Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Dearborn, MI Posts: 103	Re: Proper Break in...... From the Experts??? Don't forget about those all important brakes. If you plan on any track work, you sould plan a proper burnish session, consisting of about 30-50 stops of around 0.5gs. Also, if you are changin pads or rotors make sure you burnish new pads on old rotors and vice versa. P Laz

02-19-2002, 05:52 PM	#24
Peloton25 Mr Know-It-All Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Moorpark, CA USA Posts: 21,779	Re: Proper Break in...... From the Experts??? Cool - can I borrow your G-meter, I seem to have misplaced mine. [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img] >8^) ER

02-19-2002, 05:53 PM	#25
Posts: n/a	Re: Proper Break in...... From the Experts??? Ok...I'm trying to add any confusion, but I just got my first oil at Ford's dealer (since they give me free coupon) change last week when I hit about 2,300. I asked the guy if I can upgrade for syn. oil, he said "For year 2001 + we use syn. oil for ford cars" I thought I he's smoking, but after verified with the mechanic inside, he's right. Well, I have my car with 2,400 miles, with Motorcraft syn. oil now. Hope it turns out OK.. [img]images/icons/rolleyes.gif[/img] =A=

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode