Quote:
|
Originally Posted by Honkeytonk Monkey
Like I said I am just being honest, I'm glad if you understand that. Car audio is my hobby, I enjoy it and try to help others where I can.
I see the blue tape is actually in-line connectors, my mistake, but realise those are not a very good permanent sollution, soldered/heatshrunk is the only way to go especially with a bottle of juice a foot away. While you may not have had a problem with anything yet, you probably will especially if you've wired the speakers in a certain way. The head unit's tiny amplifier now has to power an additional 4 drivers off two channels. You could be placing a much lower impedance on the head unit's amplifier which will overheat it and cause it to fail. It's something that may not happen right away, but it's at much higher risk. You really should consider looking into another setup than what your have there though. While I realise you are trying something different there is a reason nobody does certain things. My own system is very different than a normal setup, but I spent a good chunk of time figuring out what parts and where they would workk before cutting holes. The speakers you've mounted in the rear will never be able to emulate a subwoofer. First off they are all running together off the factory head unit's 6 watts or so of power. Second, they simply cannot play the frequencies a subwoofer plays. In fact the factory premium speakers play low frequencies quite poorly. What you probably are thinking is a kicking system is actually the four speakers playing redundant mid-bass frequencies, meaning the actual law and high range sounds are being drowned out by the overboosted midrange which you are simply mistaking as real bass. Simply replacing the factory head unit with an aftermarket head unit worth $200 or even less will make a big difference in sound quality. When you do change the speakers, the rear hatch panel is the worst place to put them as a speakers response requires a solid mouning point, which the removable cargo cover isn't. It doesn't matter if they aren't getting alot of power, if the speakers are producing any vibration, a non-secure mounting location will shake with them. If you mount anywhere besides the doors, kickpanel pods and a-pillar tweeter pods are the only options that will offer an actual improvement. I'm just hoping to help you improve the system you're starting, maybe getting you on the right track before you get too far down the wrong path. Alo I like getting new people interested in the hobby. While you aren't an audiophile now, after you see what a change you can make with $500 or so you might become interested in the hobby too. It's how I started. Take it from someone who had 2 6x9s sitting in boxes on the rear dash in his first car back in 1993. I made a whole bunch of mistakes, but back then there wasn't an internet with people to steer me right. I found the Contour.org forums and listened to the moderator and the esperienced guys there. Before long all my money was going into new and more interesting systems. I am in no way trying to bash you or in any way look down on what you did, I just know it's not done right. If you saw someone build something and you knew they were doing it wrong you'd probably tell them too. Just think about it in any case. I have no problem with the rest of your car, like I said you obviously keep it well maintained and take pride in the car |












