Rear brake install...

[Focus THIS]

I am a seasoned veteran at replacing the front rotors and pads, how hard are the rear brakes? Any tips? I just got the set of mintex shoes I ordered from BAT, and I am a little concered they didnt included any of the springs. Do these need to be replaced? In the other cars I have owned these were included when I bought shoes. If i need to get them does anyone have part #'s. Thanks

[noresull]

First, the rear springs wil not need to be replaced,

Second, to remove the drums, if you remove the drum using the retaining nut, re-torque the nut to 173 ft/lbs. If you don't want to retourque the nut, you can remove the 4 bolts on the back of the spindle to remove the complete spindle/drum assy.

[Focus THIS]

173 Ft/lbs?? damn... I dont feel like buying a new torque wrench for that , I think Ill stick with removing the complete assembly. Hopefully Ill get a chance to get them done tommorow.. Do i remeber reading that you should relube the backing plate in there to stop alot of the annoying squeaking? Sounds like a good idea to me,=.

[Focus THIS]

woohoo 100 posts

[noresull]

Definitely lube the backing plate in the 6 high spots where the shoes will rub. If not, you will get the infamous rear brake squeek.

[BonBzx3]

Hey NORESULL,I have an annoying brake squeel moaner coming from right rear wheel is this just dust rust and needs blown out lubbed or a bigger issue only 5k mixed easy driving on these guys.. I want to send you the pics of caribou nite Woodbury.. Thanks for any advice.. Larry M..

[This message has been edited by noresull (edited 08-21-2001).]

[noresull]

Hey Larry, I wrote down your phone number, then edited it out of your post. I will try and call you tonight.

The rear brake noise you are hearing is because of the dry backing plates. If you get into the dealer, they will be able to fix it under warranty.

[noresull]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Zerostixxs:
how do you know when your rear brakes need replacing? Recently I've stared to noticed a squeak every time I release my brakes and I'm sure its coming from the rear.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The rears don't need to be replaced, but the backing plates are dry and the squeek you hear is the shoes rubbing on the dry backing plate.

If you still have warranty, this will be covered.

[Zerostixxs]

how do you know when your rear brakes need replacing? Recently I've stared to noticed a squeak every time I release my brakes and I'm sure its coming from the rear.

[c-grimmace]

Originally posted by noresull:
Definitely lube the backing plate in the 6 high spots where the shoes will rub. If not, you will get the infamous rear brake squeek.

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Waht do you lube them with? I do have warranty, but the dealer always ****s my car up every time i take it in, its easier for me to do it myself.

[Ray]

Originally posted by c-grimmace:
the dealer always ****s my car up every time i take it in, its easier for me to do it myself.

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">i've noticed that when i bring it in for warranty i have to bring it back in 2 more times for them to fix what they messed up on the first...

[sh0velman]

thats great.

how bout the brake questions? noresull you out there???

i really need some help here...

[TXFO]

dont sweat it sh0velman! its really easy. heres how I do it. remove cap from brake master cylander. remove the 4 bolts from the back of the drum. hit drum with sledgehammer to free it from the rust and corrosion. pull hub off. on either side of the shoe assembly there will be two retainer clips. pry those off and pull the pins out of the back. compress the piston and pull the entire shoe assembly off. disconnect the e-brake cable from the shoe and then begin disassembly. assemble the springs for the cam bar first. then hook the lower spring. Now your new shoes should be fully assembled and ready to be placed back on. grease the points and squeeze the piston again. hook the e-brake cable back on and position the shoes et al on the backing plate. let the piston hold them on and then reinsert the pins and retaining clips. set the cam to its narrowest setting and then place the hub back over the shoes. tighten the bolts and your done. set the p[arking brake a few times and then pump the brakes untill it loses its spongyness. put the cap back on the brake cylander and your finished.

The first time I ever tried this, it took me 4 hours to finish. I had never done drum brakes before and had no instructions. I was also lacking in jackstands and air tools. If I can do it, you can too. [img]graemlins/thumbup.gif[/img] Just pay close attention to how the springs and cam go. remove both hubs and do one side at a time, that way you can look at the other side for reference.

[noresull]

You can use any type of silicone lube available at the parts store.

[yellowreaper01]

173lbs????? i just use an impact...not a cheap one. one with balls. what do you think the dealer use when they change you rear brakes. they will do it the easies way possible. impact the b*tch....just make sure you know how much power the impact is so it can be adjusted to your needs...

[sh0velman]

can somone post some specifics on how to replace the shoes?

i have NO idea how to go about this...

and 173 pounds? iunno if our torque wrench goes that high... guess im taking off the 4 bolts you guys are talking about...

[biker16]

Originally posted by sh0velman:
can somone post some specifics on how to replace the shoes?

i have NO idea how to go about this...

and 173 pounds? iunno if our torque wrench goes that high... guess im taking off the 4 bolts you guys are talking about...

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">that is the recommended way to do it.

[size="1"][ 04-04-2003, 01:54 AM: Message edited by: biker16 ][/size]

[noresull]

Every decent tech knows, if You impact a retaining nut for a bearing, You will mess it up, so more than likely, the torque wrench will come out of the toolbox.

[zetec2000]

For those of you needing a Torque wrench capable of 175 ft-Lb, most auto parts chain stores (Murrays in Michigan for Example) will "loan" tools like this (I use them a lot).

They basically sell you a used wrench for 40 bucks, and you have 2 weeks to get is back to them. Then they refund your money. Some stores just make you leave a deposit, it's basically the same thing.

Considering the same rating of wrench is 165 from craftsman, it's worth the extra trip to the parts store.

My .02$
~Paris

[Stay Focused]

Originally posted by Focus THIS:
173 Ft/lbs?? damn... I dont feel like buying a new torque wrench for that , I think Ill stick with removing the complete assembly. Hopefully Ill get a chance to get them done tommorow.. Do i remeber reading that you should relube the backing plate in there to stop alot of the annoying squeaking? Sounds like a good idea to me,=.

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Or do what I do, stand on the wrench handle 1 foot from the nut!! [img]graemlins/evilgrin.gif[/img]

[Stay Focused]

Originally posted by zetec2000:
For those of you needing a Torque wrench capable of 175 ft-Lb, most auto parts chain stores (Murrays in Michigan for Example) will "loan" tools like this (I use them a lot).

They basically sell you a used wrench for 40 bucks, and you have 2 weeks to get is back to them. Then they refund your money. Some stores just make you leave a deposit, it's basically the same thing.

Snap on sells torque multipliers
Considering the same rating of wrench is 165 from craftsman, it's worth the extra trip to the parts store.

My .02$
~Paris

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">

[Stay Focused]

Also, when you put the new shoes on, you will have to reset the auto adjusters. These DON'T adjust if you just use the back up and hit the brakes technique.

You will need to get the little ratchet wheel started first. I do that by gently prying the shoes open and then tripping the little wheel with a screwdriver.

AFTER you do this, the auto adjuster will work.

[Stay Focused]

Originally posted by Stay Focused:
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Originally posted by zetec2000:
For those of you needing a Torque wrench capable of 175 ft-Lb, most auto parts chain stores (Murrays in Michigan for Example) will "loan" tools like this (I use them a lot).

They basically sell you a used wrench for 40 bucks, and you have 2 weeks to get is back to them. Then they refund your money. Some stores just make you leave a deposit, it's basically the same thing.

Considering the same rating of wrench is 165 from craftsman, it's worth the extra trip to the parts store.

My .02$
~Paris

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial"></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">I don't know how that happened! My response goes here:

Snap on sells torque multipliers