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Old 10-15-2008, 10:38 AM   #1
FatSean
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Default Replacing IAC, do I NEED a new rubber seal? (Idle Air Control Valve)

My 01 refuses to idle, the IAC is the last thing to try. Haynes says that I need to replace a rubber seal, but my Motorcraft IAC didn't come with a new seal?

Can I reuse this seal? Don't feel like waiting for the dealer to get one in.
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Old 10-15-2008, 11:52 AM   #2
G-forces
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Default Re: Replacing IAC, do I NEED a new rubber seal? (Idle Air Control Valve)

It's just those little rubber ring seals pressed into the intake manifold. You could put a little grease on them, tighten the IAC snugly, and call it good, if you don't want to wait. But the IAC is so awkward to get at, I'd get the seals first, just to avoid the chance of a leak. Even though a leak is not too likely.
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Old 10-15-2008, 11:54 AM   #3
FatSean
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Default Re: Replacing IAC, do I NEED a new rubber seal? (Idle Air Control Valve)

Good advice. I've ordered the seal, and I'll start the job today. Hopefully with the car on ramps it won't be too difficult. If she leaks, I'll have the seal in a few days and just re-do the job.
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Old 10-15-2008, 11:58 AM   #4
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Default Re: Replacing IAC, do I NEED a new rubber seal? (Idle Air Control Valve)

What? It's hard to reach? I think I need to replace mine as well. Sean, if you would, I would appreciate you posting after you do the job.
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Old 10-15-2008, 12:11 PM   #5
FatSean
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Default Re: Replacing IAC, do I NEED a new rubber seal? (Idle Air Control Valve)

Well the haynes manual talks about removing the intake manifold and/or alternator. Some threads on this site claim it can be done from under the car without removing those parts. I'm going to try getting at it from under the car.

I'll definitely post back after working on it.
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Old 10-15-2008, 12:31 PM   #6
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Default Re: Replacing IAC, do I NEED a new rubber seal? (Idle Air Control Valve)

Cheez Whiz. I don't want to do all that. Hope it works from the underside.

Sean, does your car just not idle at all? Mine will happily idle all day long if you just leave it sitting. Dies everytime you drop from medium or high revs down to idle. Damn scary.
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Old 10-15-2008, 01:12 PM   #7
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Default Re: Replacing IAC, do I NEED a new rubber seal? (Idle Air Control Valve)

It should be possible to replace from under the car, but it would be all done by feel. There is no way to see the bolts, or gaskets from under the car. And if you have big hands and stocky arms, I'm not so sure it can be done. Make sure you have wiggle sockets/extensions.
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Old 10-15-2008, 01:28 PM   #8
redzx300
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Default Re: Replacing IAC, do I NEED a new rubber seal? (Idle Air Control Valve)

I removed the intake manifold to do mine.
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Old 10-15-2008, 02:00 PM   #9
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Default Re: Replacing IAC, do I NEED a new rubber seal? (Idle Air Control Valve)

I had to remove the intake to get to mine. Like G-Force said there is no way to see the bolts and it is all done by feeling around if you can even get your hands in there. You'll save time if you take off the manifold.
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Old 10-15-2008, 03:53 PM   #10
FatSean
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Default Re: Replacing IAC, do I NEED a new rubber seal? (Idle Air Control Valve)

CheaperSleeper - The car started stalling at random times in parking lots, then it didn't like starting and idling in the AM some times, now it refuses to idle. I checked all the hoses and replaced the throttle position sensor. I hope this does the trick!

I guess I'll drive her off the ramps and just remove the intake then. Sounds easier that way. I assume the intake manifold gasket can be reused?

Thanks guys!
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Old 10-18-2008, 06:20 PM   #11
FatSean
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Default Re: Replacing IAC, do I NEED a new rubber seal? (Idle Air Control Valve)

Hey guys, just finished replacing the IACV.

I did not remove the intake manifold, but I did remove the alternator. It's a pain, but removing the intake seemed even more annoying. Just disconnect everything you can around the alternator, bend down that metal tab that grounds the motor, and do some cursing. I recomend PB Blaster on the alternator ears to make it easier to pull out. The back side ears have a sliding bushing, use a vice-grip to push it to the outside so you can get the alternator lined up again when you replace it.

Then, with some contortions and a normal box-end/open-end 8mm wrench, I removed the valve.



I don't know how you guys would get the top/forward bolt out from underneath!

Anyway, care runs great now. The old one was all gunked up. I did replace the seal.

Thanks for the advice!
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