New Ignition Cylinder Help.

[skipsjh]

I thought I was going to have to cough up $250 or so to my stealership. Instead I read these instructions and ordered the new cylinder from FORDSVTPARTS. $96 is a lot better than $250.

[fordblue03]

Glad to hear.

[edandbeka]

I'm adding to this thread because of the good pictures above. We've had this problem on our 2000 Focus ZTX, and my wife has been using a stapler (no joke) to get the key to move. After seeing these photos of how to remove the ignition cylinder, I gave it a shot. I also had read on a different forum (can't remember which one) that the Focus ignition cylinders are junk, even the replacement ones, and the only reliable solution is to remove the pins from the cylinder and re-install it. I gave it a try, and it worked.

What you have to do, after removing the cylinder, is to remove the split metal ring from the end of the cylinder, it's gray and shown in the picture. It's a bear, so be patient. Once that's off, the inner portion of the cylinder will slide free from the sleeve. Slide it out and take a look at the inner portion, it has a stamped metal "hood" (lack of a better term) that, in my case, had two dots of green paint on it. Carefully remove that, and all the pins are underneath. There will be 7 pins and 7 springs, all of which need to come out. I had to tap the inner portion on a table to get them to fall out, they were too small for any pliers I have.

Once you have them out, put the hood back in place (not sure if that's required, but I did it to be on the safe side), slide the inner portion back into the sleeve, and replace the metal ring. Then reinstall the entire cylinder as shown in the picture.

I know for some repairs it works until it doesn't, but this worked for us and was easier than I thought it would be. I think this will allow you to turn the ignition cylinder without the correct key, but the PATS system will require the correct key to be in close proximity of the dash, so the car can't be started without the right key anyway.

Hope this helps someone else, and thanks to the above member for uploading these photos. I would have done the same for this procedure, but alas my camera is not working!

[fordblue03]

Also if you were to drill the indent out instead of depressing it (in the instance you couldn't turn the key) That will work just as well.

[j20000]

I'm glad that this thread helped you get your Focus fixed.

[SecretAgentMan2k]

Has anyone's cylinder just stop turning once it reaches the run position when it went bad? I've had two cylinders go bad on me before, but it usually just didn't turn or let the key go in. I just want to make sure it's the cylinder before I replace it. I don't think a PATS issue would cause this.

Thanks.

[fordblue03]

Did this happen to the same car? Did they sell you the newer cylinder, the face plate looks like an 05 or newer, to replace the old one?
No PATS will not effect the key being inserted or turned.

[SecretAgentMan2k]

I have a very basic understanding of how lock cylinders work, but I can't say I've rebuilt one. Is it tough to key a new cylinder? I seen posts on replacing the tumblers, but no real instructions. Do I need to file down the tumblers or do they have set lengths that snap off?

Thanks

[j20000]

I honestly don't know...My Dad is the Parts Manager at a Ford Dealership, so I always had them set the cylinder to my key. You could probably just use the old tumblers from your old cylinder.

[Jeepsbeme]

With the upgraded Ford service part, it's very easy. You just select the proper brass tumbler for each position. Even using the trial and error approach for each sized tumbler for each position, it's not a bad job. Just work with a single position at a time. When you find the correct one, remove it (noting it's position) and move on to the next one. Once you've identified the appropriate tumbler for each position to match your existing key, then put them all in.

[fordblue03]

When I ordered the cylinder from b16sir, he's over at FF, he sent me mine already keyed. He'll need you VIN for it. I paid $65 about 1.5yrs ago. and I got it within a week.

[SecretAgentMan2k]

So each kit comes with all the various sizes of tumblers? That doesn't sound so bad. I'm surprised Ford provides that much waste.

[fordblue03]

Maybe it is cheaper than keeping a stock of tumblers.

[SecretAgentMan2k]

OK, first to answer my own questions.

1. Yes, the kit comes with 5 or 4 tumblers in 5 separate sizes. There are 7 positions. I'm sure I learned how to calculate all the possible key codes in high school, but it escapes me right now.

2. The instructions to key the cylinder yourself are included with the part. They're actually quite good.

Here are a few hints I picked up if you decide to key it yourself.

1. The most sane way to key the new cylinder is to pull the old one apart. The toughest part to pulling the old one apart is the c shaped clip at the end. After failing to spread it apart with pliers or screwdrivers, I actually took the pliers and forced the clip further on to the center post. This spread the clip apart. Then take the pliers and start wiggling the clip off the post. You'll probably gouge the metal, but you're not going to be reusing it anyway.

2. Putting the new clip onto the new cylinder is similarly difficult. I took a large flat head screwdriver and wedge it into the C. This spreads the clip just enough to slide it onto the post. Once on the post, tap it down to the end where it locks on place.

Yes, the new part is much simpler than the original. It has larger tumblers as well. It looks like a typical lock cylinder found in desk drawers. That original part is really ridiculous. The tumblers are tiny and are held in place by a thin metal flap. In my case the flap no longer laid flush and was catching the inside of the outer cylinder. The tumblers work to pop a small band of metal that locks into the outer cylinder until the key is put in.

I found a local locksmith that was going to charge $65 for the Strattec part and to key it for me. The dealer originally wanted $67 with no keying. I kept hearing from the parts and service guys that this may end up being a recall, so I figured I'd get the FoMoCo part to hopefully make getting a refund easier. It ended up costing $88 out the door because the parts guy looked up the wrong item. It's fine though. I wasn't going to make it to the locksmith before they closed anyway. It was actually kinda fun tinkering with the cylinder and keying it myself. I actually had to do it at the local Borders since the car was broken down nearby. I'm sure I drew a few odd stares!

[Jeepsbeme]

Originally Posted by SecretAgentMan2k

The most sane way to key the new cylinder is to pull the old one apart.

Your reply contained some good information, but you lost me about the need to pull the old one apart. Other than seeing how needlessly complex the original was, how does taking it apart fit into the process of keying the new cylinder? If I remember correctly, I didn't have to open my old cylinder up when I keyed my new one.

[SecretAgentMan2k]

Yeah, it was getting late and meant to go into more detail. You take the old one apart to get the key code to use for the new cylinder. Each of the 7 tumblers is labeled 1-5. You use that sequence on the new cylinder.

I assume you could start at one end of the key and try out each tumbler until it fits flush with the new cylinder. Then you just move on to the next one on that side. When you're done with one side, you just flip it over and try out the tumblers on the other side. I thought it might be a bit maddening trying to test out all the possibilities, but I guess it can be done systematically.

[Smacaroni]

I forgot how much fun it was to own a Ford since I got rid of my Windstar a few years ago.
Then we found a 2001 Ford Focus with 219,000 miles on it for a grand in craigslist. We've been looking for a cheap car for our soon-to-be 17 year old to back into posts, ding, curb rash etc. for a few months and this looks like the ticket.
And since it's a $1000 car, I know there's going to be some problems. Like the cracked windsheild and the AWOL muffler. We fixed those. Then, all of a sudden, my girlfriend puts the wrong key in the ignition, it turns, but won't start. So she takes the key out and POP! the ignition cylinder pops out! That's weird.
Well, I put the cylinder back in, the car starts, no problem.
A few days later, the cylinder won't turn at all. I can't get the cylinder out. (I was going to remove the tumblers so it would turn no matter what key was inserted. Remember, it's a $1000 car.)
Then I found this thread.
So here's my solution to the cylinder problem, costs about $7 in parts and about half an hour besides the time it takes to remove the plastic covers on the steering column.
Somebody else may have posted this already, if so, I appologize for the repost.
There are five wires running out of the key switch.
Black/Grey -- starter
Yellow -- Accessories
Red/Black -- Key dinger
Red -- 12V+
Green/Yellow -- RUN (all the good stuff that isn't ACC to make the car run)
There are two other contacts, I don't know what they do, there were no wires in mine.
Red is the 12V source. When you put the key in and push it, the Red/Black wire is connected to the 12V+, and it "dings". I didn't do anything with that. The dinger is kinda useless, IMHO.
Next is the ACC position, this connects the red and yellow, I'm not sure what it's purpose is yet, we just got the car and haven't done much with it, but I know the radio will turn on without the key, so that's what the ACC position is usually used for. It probably runs the HVAC too.
The RUN position on the key, the Yellow and Green/Yellow are now connected to the red, and the engine will run (if you can start it) without a key. (Yeah, the PATS is wonderful!)
The Black/Grey is only connected to the red when the key is in the momentary start position.
So here's what I did.
I wired two switches, one momentary, one rocker.
The momentary is connected to the red and black/grey wires, so when you push the switch, it makes contact between those two.
The other switch, connects the red on one side, yellow and green/yellow on the other.
And I rely on the PATS sensor to make sure the key placed in the switch is authorized. If you parked on a sufficent hill, I think you could push start the car by turning it in the "on" position. This would be all fine and dandy provided that you're willing to push start it all the time or keep feeding it gas. These switches could be hidden anywhere if that makes you feel better. Without the key, turning the car "on" and pressing the start button does nothing.
Two notes, use 10 guage wire for all connections, it's just easier that way. Buy a 30A rocker switch, and the highest amp momentary switch you can find (60A should be good, but I don't think you'll find one that high, if it's too low, you'll have to replace it often.)
Secondly, if your rocker switch is rated at over 30A, you should run the power to the momentary switch from the switched side of the rocker. I didn't. I figure that of the people who do drive this car, they should be able to remember to turn the rocker on before hitting the start button. I couldn't find a >30A switch, so I wired the start button from the 12V+ so that I don't burn out the rocker.
Here's a photo.

[j20000]

glad you got it running. There are several ways to try and "free up" the ignition cylinder. (remember the cylinder has to be free to remove it.) One of the best it just inserting the key, and hitting it with your hand or a rubber mallet, they usually frees up the cylinder so that you can get it out. If you can't do that, you have to drill it out. The cylinder can be bought from ford...keyed for your car, for about $80.

Oh, and welcome to the Focus Family and FocalJet. There is a wealth of information on this site...I'm sure any problem that you could have...has already been had by someone else.

Again, welcome.

[Smacaroni]

I considered freeing it up with a crow bar.
Or a blow torch.
Whacking it with a replacement key never crossed my mind, but I did try it with the original key.
Taking the assembly off was also in consideration, till I figured out that you need to remove the steering wheel to get the whole thing off.
I'm just glad that it did it's little trick while sitting in my driveway.
I feel bad for anyone who doesn't have a whole lot of automotive knowledge and this happened away from home. $100+ towing bill, $80 in parts, probably $100 in labor. Pretty big bill for a really poor design on Ford's part. I signed some recall petition, but they emailed me asking for a dollar, so I'm guessing it's a half-assed scam.

[dsgrey]

The lock seized on the oldest Foci so I had to drill it out. That was easy but even after blowing out, shards must have been stuck. It took 15 minutes with vise grips pulling the old cylinder. The local stealership wanted $151 for the cylinder PLUS a charge from the mechanics to set the tumblers. Many lock smiths wouldn't sell me the part but one would (pick the lock smith with part of their name in the business name verses an emergency service). $70 for a StratTec 707592 and $25 for setting the tumblers. He laughed at the dealer charge since he does most of their lock work. 10 minutes to install and it works great!

[focusmike04]

What if you put in the new the ignition switch but your car wont start and when you try the red light next to the hazard button just blinks repeatedly what do you do? Need help A.S.A.P thanx

[j20000]

That's probably because you are using a key that isn't programed. You still need your original PATS key to start the car. If you are using your original programed key, try disconnecting the battery and then reconnecting it and trying it again. Make sure that the little black plastic ring is still around where the cylinder goes into, and not just hanging back there somewhere.

[focusmike04]

Im using a new key from when I got the new ignition switch not the old key. What do I do?