Right front wheel noise

[Jimmy]

This problem has gradually gotten worse (more pronounced) over a period of weeks/months, to the point that I'm driving the Jeep exclusively. There's a noise coming from the right front wheel, seems like its every rotation, but I cant really confirm that. Almost a knocking sound, and I can feel it through the car itself.

I'd rather avoid throwing new parts at it until I figure it out, but I've never done any real work in this area aside from tie rods. Any suggestions where to start?

[G-forces]

Sound like what a CV joint does when it's going. Especially if the sound/vibration gets worse and better with changes in torque applied.

[Scorpion]

Ya, could be CV. It would normally sound more pronounced when you turn...more of a clicking noise.

Could also be the sway bar end links. That is a common problem. Every little bump you hit will make a 'clonk' sound, which you can feel as you say. Easy and cheap fix....about 18$ each if I remember right. 20 mins to replace.

[Jimmy]

Sweet. CV joint was the first thing I was thinking, but I definitely wanted some input. I'll start tearing into it tomorrow, I think.

Thanks

[Focusfre4k]

I am having the same problem...does not sound like a dificult replacement

[BenP]

CV or Wheel Bearing. Doubt it's the endlinks, it wouldn't match the rotation of the tire like you say it does.

Quick and easy test, jack up the front of your car and grab hold of your wheel at 12 and 6. Is there any give/wiggle? Grab it again at 9 and 3. How about there?

Oh, and until you figure out exactly what it is, it's a good idea to stay off the road. Last thing you'd want is the wheel to seize up and cause an accident if it's something serious.

[Jimmy]

Ugh. What size is that hub nut? I've got a 1 1/16 socket and that's not even close.

[Scorpion]

Originally Posted by Jimmy

.... seems like its every rotation

Ooops, missed that bit

[Jimmy]

Looks like a 1 1/4 socket fits...crikey. I ordered both halfshafts at autozone, they should be in this afternoon (from another location). We'll see how this goes.

[DarkHorse]

Let me know what you come up with. I'm having a similar problem, when I make a right hand turn and apply the throttle, there's a scratching noise. It also happens under heavier acceleration. I've already replaced the end links, and that didn't fix it.

[Jimmy]

What I've come up with is that the ******* who designed the attachments for the slide hammer Autozone carries deserves to be shot in both kneecaps and kicked in the nuts. The damn thing has T-Rex arms that wont fit around the end of the inner CV joint. I've already ripped off the rest of the axle so the boot is out of the way, but the metal can at the end is such a ridiculous shape (the ends are ROUNDED! WTF!?!) that I'm tempted to tow the thing down the highway and just cut the tow strap when I get close to a bridge embankment.

Edit: Tomorrow I try the screwdriver method, I guess. If I go back out there now I'm gonna put the slide hammer through the windshield.


Any other tips to make this a one-man job? Pretty much everyone I know is out of town on post-deployment leave.

[Jimmy]

Well, that wasnt it. Two new axles, same old noise.


Also, dont remove the snapring (I found that tidbit in another thread that I've now bumped with a correction to the how-to). The axle can slide out about 1/4 inch, allowing all the transmission fluid to drain. Hooray. Now I get to do that side again to replace the snapring.

[DarkHorse]

Mine ended up being the motor mount

[BenP]

Wow, okay, there are a lot of off-the-wall suggestions in this thread so far. The noise matches the rotation of the wheel. It's not endlinks, it's not motor mounts, it's not blinker fluid, jesus christ.

Disclaimer, I'm not a mechanic so this will probably sound like a stupid question, but does replacing the axle include replacing the wheel bearing? 'Cause if you've done that, you've already gotten your hands on the CV and would have noticed the problem if it was there. Sooo... that leaves the other really, really common culprit, grindalicious wheel bearing.

[DarkHorse]

Umm, I was just letting him know what it ended up being in my case, no where did I make a suggestion that is what his could be. Mine actually made the same noise while pressing on the gas with the brake applied too, which is obviously not related to rotation.

[Jimmy]

Originally Posted by saurin37

Disclaimer, I'm not a mechanic so this will probably sound like a stupid question, but does replacing the axle include replacing the wheel bearing? 'Cause if you've done that, you've already gotten your hands on the CV and would have noticed the problem if it was there. Sooo... that leaves the other really, really common culprit, grindalicious wheel bearing.

No, I'm pretty sure it doesnt. On the side in question, I've got a new axle, which includes both CV joints, a new endlink (it really didnt take much to shatter the hell out of that ), and an outer tie rod with maybe a thousand miles on it...and the noise was present before that change.

Wheel bearing, eh? Ugh. Looks like I'll be searching for a how-to since its not in my Haynes and I've never done this one before either.

[BenP]

Same disclaimer on this, still hoping someone with a bit more know-how will chime in.

You can't replace JUST the wheel bearing without a press, and even if you have one, it's almost as cost-efficient (as I understand it) to just buy the whole assembly from Tousely and replace it with that.

Side note, have you actually had a mechanic look at it? I mean, "right front wheel noise" is just the sort of really vague problem that's hard to diagnose on a forum but really, really easy to diagnose with five minutes on a lift. They oughta be able to tell you right away what it is you need to replace.

[Jimmy]

Yeah at this point I think I'm going to call the local dealership and ask how much it'll be for them to look at it, and replace the bearing (assuming that's the problem). Hopefully they can give me a ballpark that's not outrageous.

Edit: Its kind of a "thrum" noise.

[BenP]

Originally Posted by Jimmy

Yeah at this point I think I'm going to call the local dealership and ask how much it'll be for them to look at it, and replace the bearing (assuming that's the problem). Hopefully they can give me a ballpark that's not outrageous.

Edit: Its kind of a "thrum" noise.

If they charge you anything look at it, you're getting ripped off :-P I can't think of a single time someone has ever charged me to simply tell me what's wrong with the damn thing. I mean, it's a cost of doing business... you spend five minutes giving a person your assessment and hope that they'll pay you to fix it.

But good call, get an in-person opinion of what's wrong and THEN try and decide what you're going to do, before you spend any more money taking shots in the dark.

[Jimmy]

Well, I'm running out of things to replace down there

Actually if the bearing was something I could do on my own I'd probably give that a shot...but if the best I can do is remove the knuckle and take it in, the hell with it...I've had enough of removing the knuckles from this damn thing. I've had to do it 3 times in the past 2 days (one on each side, then the driver's side again to replace the snap ring).

[Jimmy]

Bad bearing. There goes my winch & front bumper money for the Jeep.

[BenP]

Called it
Sorry to hear that man, just had to replace one of my own and took a real solid hit in the wallet too

[sqwirl]

How much did they run Jimmy? Did you get just the bearing or the whole assembly? I have the exact same problem in my front right now. I was gonna throw new wheel bearings in before doing the CV's. Just did the rear's a few months back.

[Jimmy]

It was the hub and bearing, and I think 2.5 hrs of labor. Total cost: $467. The labor was only about half the cost, actually.

And now my brake light is on for some reason. Its a trouble light, its not a stuck parking brake switch or anything..fluid level looks ok, so they'll be seeing me again tomorrow and they're not getting another penny.

Edit: Its a bigger than usual hit in the wallet, considering I more or less wasted $150 on axles too. This is also the first time I've had to take the Focus to a shop to have work done, and I bought it in November 2001.

[n03ndinsight]

gonna pray you didnt have hubcaps on your focus. my car does the whole ticking thing every time the wheel turns. the ford hubcaps are too large for the factory wheels, they push away where the wheel weights are on the bottom rotation, and snap back against the wheel weight on the upward rotation of the wheel weight. he put little rubber gaskets inbetween the hubcap and rim, and it went away, but the rubber needs more adhesive so it only lasts about a week.

mechanic at my dealership says someone comes in atleast once a month for bad wheel bearings, and they just got hub caps from the same run as my focus , and his fusion.

russ