How to remove alternator?

[XboxHacka]

ok i Removed it from the bracket but now I cant remove from behind the engine. Anyone know how without removing the engine mount?

[kyle]

which engine? if zetec i found lossening the rear lower mount and the upper passenger side mount. find a good solid spot and get a big pry bar and move the engine forward. gives it just enough space. and move all the other stuff. the coolant overflow and i dont recall what else is there but you will see what you need to move

[Jibberish18]

Per Haynes Manual.
Place Coolant Expansion Tank to one side.
Lift out Power Steering Reservoir and put to one side.
Remove DriveBelt.
Unscrew Wiring Loom bolt and move wiring to one side.
Remove Ground Cable from Strut Tower.
Bent the ground bracket down as much as possible.
Move Canister Purge Valve to one side.
Remove Plastic Cover from Alternator.
Unscrew and the alternator mounting bolt nearest the engine first.
Unscrew the other retaining bolt until it has fully disengaged from the bracket (not possible to remove bolt from alternator at this stage).
Lift the alternator out, Pulley side facing upwards.
Take care not to damage or you might screw your surrounding components!

[kyle]

a lot of that stuff doesnt need to be moved if you loosen the motor mounts. its your call. i was just doing this play by play when i did it and i had to try everything. the motor mount thing seems like a hassle .. but its faster IMO.

[XboxHacka]

What about installing it Damn thing dosent want to go back on

[TXFO]

while the alternator is out, screw the bolts in a few threads and them smack them with a hammer. (while supporting the ears on a table or something. The threaded ends slide in and out and need to be knocked out a little so that the alt will get into the bracket easily. As they are now, you'd have a hell of a time coaxing it into place.

[Foci_Fosho]

you obviously have the zetec.
But the title and subject to this thread is still relevant.

If duratec, the passenger side axle must be removed (at least to my understanding, and the method the Tech used to replace the alternator)

Good-luck with the install. I didn't trust myself, so I paid $200 labor.

[das0618]

I did it with the Zetec on my 2k ZX3 about a week ago or two. I had to remove the pax side motor mount and slide the motor forward about one inch to get the clearance to remove it. The new one should slide right in there and slide on the brackets with WAY less force than it took to get out. Wiggle the alt. back into place and the bolts should just rethread into the mounting holes.

[fungusfocus]

I concur, the alternator comes out easy if you pull the RS motormount and bar the engine forward.

I'ne been wrenching on cars since 1970, I've found in most cases what appears to be the LONG WAY of doing something, is actually the SHORT WAY. Remove what you need, give yourself room, and the job is easy, and quick!

John

[SaxManZX3]

I had one HELL of a time getting mine back on. Ended up using a pry bar (to keep it going in one direction) and a mallet to knock it in. Then it was a SUPER duper bitch getting the bolts threaded in.

This was all only to replace the CHT sensor...

[celtictexan]

Well my question has been answered. I have never seen such a difficult alt to remove. I was afraid it would be the eng mount removal thing. Or the drive shaft. It's really a stupid system. Is there anything else that should be done while I'm this far into it? Its a 2004.

[BowDown]

Belt tensioner might give you piece of mind, along with the belt itself.

I had to take mine out a 2nd time. It took me an hour each time. I don't know what you people are bitching about.

I also upgraded the BIG 3 wiring. Alt functions great now!

[Omega Anomaly]

You don't need to remove the ps mount in order to get it in and out. An easier way to do it is to loosen the dog bone bolt that connects it to the undercarriage, removed the bolt that holds it to the tranny, turn the mount so that it sits inside the undercarriage. Then take a ratchet strap and place one hook through the hole on the tranny near the front of the vehicle and place the other hook on the back of the undercarriage and tighten it up. It will tilt the motor forward and allow you to remove and install the alt easily.

[SkaAddict]

Originally Posted by BowDown

Belt tensioner might give you piece of mind, along with the belt itself.

If the car has any serious mileage and/or has seen a few winters in its lifespan the belt tensioner assembly is almost certainly going to need to be replaced. They just freeze up over time and you'll never get the belt on. Just figured that out the hard way earlier this week doing the same thing...had to break the arm off the factory tensioner to get it off the block.

You might as well replace the idler pulley while you're in there too, ~$15 at a chain parts store.

[BowDown]

Originally Posted by SkaAddict

If the car has any serious mileage and/or has seen a few winters in its lifespan the belt tensioner assembly is almost certainly going to need to be replaced. They just freeze up over time and you'll never get the belt on. Just figured that out the hard way earlier this week doing the same thing...had to break the arm off the factory tensioner to get it off the block.

You might as well replace the idler pulley while you're in there too, ~$15 at a chain parts store.

Ha, I know the feeling. I took a 2ft piece of 2x4 and placed it onto the pulley, then used a 5lb sludge hammer to knock the idler down so I could get to the bolts.

Works pretty well.. I would highly suggest it.

[celtictexan]

Who do you all like best for ordering parts online? I'm having a bit of a hard time finding this alternator. They need the vin then tell me its special order.

[BowDown]

I bought mine right from the guys at the Ford Parts counter. I know them well there.

Could also check with NAPA?

[celtictexan]

Originally Posted by celtictexan

Who do you all like best for ordering parts online? I'm having a bit of a hard time finding this alternator. They need the vin then tell me its special order.

I was having the exact same prob. Finally got the Alt at Advance auto. Now I'm haveing hell finding a idler pully. Seems to be a dealer only item. They want $69. for it.

I've never had a car so hard to get the right parts for. There must have been hundreds of combonations in 2004.

[ghostrider86]

Most of the time i tell them its a 03 even if its an 04. I have Focus models ranging 01-06 and the alt pully and A/C pully have been wrong many of times. If the alt doesn't come with a pully remove the old pully from the old alt and install it on the new one. If you end up buying one, make sure its the exact same size.
Serp belt length is difficult to find aftermarket as well. I have found atleast 3 different lengths between 01-04 models with the same exact pulley configuration. When i order the belt from Ford i use the VIN and get the right belt 99% of the time (its what i suggest to do)
Jeff