do all these steps need done???

[mattc123]

i was planning on doing myself but it looks a little bit hard and time consuming

1. Loosen the strut and spring assembly top mount nuts by five turns.

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2. View Full Image CAUTION: Use a socket to loosen the wheel hub retaining nut to prevent damage.
   Loosen the wheel hub retaining nut.

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2. Remove the brake disc. For additional information, refer to Section 206-03.

Vehicles with ABS

1. Detach the wheel

All Vehicles

1. Remove the tie-rod end retaining nut.

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2. View Full Image CAUTION: Protect the seal using a soft cloth to prevent damage.
   Using the special tool, detach the tie-rod end ball joint end.

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2. View Full Image CAUTION: Protect the ball joint seal using a soft cloth to prevent damage.
   Detach the lower arm ball joint.
   1. Remove the nut and bolt.
   1. Detach the ball joint.

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2. View Full Image CAUTION: The wheel hub retaining nut can be re-used four times, mark the retaining nut.
   Remove the wheel hub retaining nut.

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2. NOTE: Make sure that the halfshaft does not disengage from the inner constant velocity joint.
   Using a suitable puller, separate the wheel hub from the halfshaft.

1. Remove the wheel knuckle bolt.

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2. Remove the wheel knuckle.
   1. Using a suitable lever, release the knuckle.
   1. Remove the wheel knuckle.
   • Support the halfshaft out of the way.
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Now that the knuckle is removed you will need to take the knuckle to shop to have the hub bearing pressed out of the knuckle

[G-forces]

When I clicked the link, the following is the only "answer" I saw... "1. Loosen the strut and spring assembly top mount nuts by five turns."

That doesn't seem like allot to do, lol... it sure isn't the whole story. I haven't replaced the wheel bearings yet, but I know that won't get it done. You might get more answers if you state a real question.

[mattc123]

ill have to get the right link it has about 15 steps

[mattc123]

ok i fixed the link

[G-forces]

That's more like it... Yes, there can be no short cuts when disassembling the hub/knuckle to remove the bearing. Like I said before, I haven't done mine yet, but the instructions don't seem to leave anything out, or add any unnecessary steps.

[SkaAddict]

I've done this a few times...in my experience its not really necessary to loosen the strut top bearing as the axle telescopes, just cut the wheel to either extreme and it'll back out of the hub. You can substitiue a GP puller with a mini-sledge and a block of wood or a deadblow/rubber mallet (objective being to pound the axle out without ****rooming the end.)

The ball joint retention bolt isn't threaded into the spindle, just remove the nut off the backside and pound it out with a centerpunch and a hammer, and throw it away and replace with new hardware. The ball joint will pop out, it just takes a bit of force...take care not to puncture the rubber boot. Once it comes out keep tension on it until you can control where its going to go...I've had the ball joint pop right back into the spindle more than once as the control arm is spring loaded. Once its out the spindle will come off the strut, usually with a little coaxing from a hammer.

If you're up to it you could technically drive the new bearing into the spindle with a hammer and an old socket or piece of pipe just slightly smaller than the outside race of the bearing, but you should be able to find a shop that will drive the bearing in for a reasonable price (reasonable being $15-20.)

[Chaney]

I used the old bearing and a socket to put the new bearing in the knuckle. It took a 5lb sledge and once it started in there smooth, a few GOOOOOOOD hits with the sledge to seat it. It'll take a few hours to complete.