Nine inch wide wheels (widebody)... overkill?

[CaysE]

Yeah post #8 above.

[ClintB1321]

^those are 18x8 and 18x9, i was talking about 17x8 and 17x9. my 17x8 TD 1.2's look significantly different then the 18x8.

[CaysE]

I'm not talking about 17"s in this thread. LOL

17x9: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...100_4043-1.jpg

[Nliiitend1]

Fitment issues aside, I think you should consider what a change like that will do to your scrub radius, among other things...

"Darty" will probably be an understatement with low-offset 9" wide wheels on a Focus.

You'll also be screwing with the rear geometry in a way that you might not think about right away...you'll effectively be lengthening the "moment arm" of the rear's passive rear steering setup, which could add some unsettling behavior to your car's handling dynamics.

It's one thing to use these crazy wheel sizes/fitments to get "the look," but it's an entirely different thing to be attempting to put together a package with superior handling dynamics by using them.

Food for thought, anyway.

[ClintB1321]

Originally Posted by CaysE

I'm not talking about 17"s in this thread. LOL

17x9: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...100_4043-1.jpg

hey man, i was just giving you input from a performance stand point from my personal track based experience, because i THOUGHT thats what you were interested, you said you wanted a car with good grip, and i was giving you a heads up about what I know works well cornering. Sorry i wasted your time with 17inch rim talk....

[CaysE]

Yikes.... I even took the time to find a picture for you. I thought it was clear I'm looking at 18's, that's all.

[ClintB1321]

from the talk in the thread, and your posts it seemed to be about the fact you wanted to know if getting a 9 inch wide wheel was worth the trouble then a 8 inch wide for the sake of performance, seemed like weather it was a 17 or 18 wasnt so much of a big deal. But now its obvious it is. so good luck

[CaysE]

Sorry man... I guess I'm getting comfy with everyone on FJ. I'm not a prick in real life, I swear.

[Davor]

I am copying this from Canadian FS website...has lots of info for those doing RS conversion without actual RS powertrain. Pics are great for wheel/tire/suspension reference.


After long debate...

Here is my Ford Focus RS Replica, it's a huge head turner. The colour changes throughout the day and its absolutely stunning. Always get compliment on the colour.

The car handles great due to the added 3" of width and suspension components.

The braking is out of this world.

It's a great track car especially with the added gearing and limited-slip diff.


Consisting of a 2001 Ford Focus ZX3 with 86000KM

Ford Imperial Blue (Ford Racing blue)
Full RS body. All original OEM lights + body trims (not the cheap wide body kit)
18" OZ RS Wheels
Front 13" floating Alcon discs, 4 piston Alcon monoblock calipers
Rear RS/SVT disc brakes.
Hawk HP+ Pads
Stainless braided brake lines.
Sparco Torino 2 seats.
2" lowered suspension (spring and struts)
Rear Sway bar
Front and rear strut braces
B post brace (for seat belts)
Poly bushings all around.
Torsen Limited Slip Diff
Euro Gearing.
Sach sports clutch
Lightened flywheel
Short shift
Borla exhaust
Poly Engine mount
Most RS interior components (minus seats)
Start button
Brand new red top battery
K&N air filter
Sceaming Demon coil and Live Wires

Priced at $10,000 OBO

eMail me for more info @ xxxxxxxxxxxxx

[ClintB1321]

Originally Posted by CaysE

Sorry man... I guess I'm getting comfy with everyone on FJ. I'm not a prick in real life, I swear.

no prob, im not taking offense, i was just giving what i thought would be useful input but it doesnt work in conjunction with what your looking for, my bad

[stage3]

Originally Posted by Spatakula

Just a FYI, on KW V1 coilovers dropped completely, regular fender widths, on an 8.5 et30, 205/40/17 no "smashing" or rubbing what so ever at full lock.

If anything, the tire you choose will rub. What size of tires were you looking at?

-spatakula

Thats odd I have the same thing on the front 8.5 et30 with a 205/40/17 and I had to roll the fenders with about 3/4" to go on the coilover. If I slammed it all the way, it would surely rub without an agressive fender roll.

Originally Posted by REVSWIN

Correct, that is what I was talking about.

I say 9" are fail safe, 9.5" are flush.

How can that be correct? You can have 7.5" with a super low offset and have it flush. Or even a 10" with a super high offset and have it tucked.

Originally Posted by CaysE

My point is that I like the look of the 9" wide versions of these two wheels far better than the 8" counterparts.

The difference in lip which you are referring to is based on the offset as well. If you want 8's have them make them in a lower offset to achieve the lip you want.

[CaysE]

It's not... it was confirmed with TDR that the lip is set by the wheel width, and the offset is done by shaving the hub of the wheel. They have a pretty big wheel design program though so I'm hoping they can custom make me an 8" wheel with the 9" face. Even the concavity of the spokes is different which I like better on the 9" version.

[stage3]

^^^ That is true with with certain manufacturers. Primarily with lower cost wheels.
I was referring to the Compomotive wheels and other higher end monoblock and multi-piece wheels. If you do end up going with a high end wheel, most companies can build you whatever you want.

I had a set of the Compomotive MO 6-spokes in 18x8 and they had a decent 1" lip even with a 40mm offset.

[REVSWIN]

stage3,

I was agreeing with him that a 18x8 10mm et wheels on a RS bodied ZX3 would have the same outer track width as a real RS.

Not sure what you are asking.

[CaysE]

Originally Posted by stage3

^^^ That is true with with certain manufacturers. Primarily with lower cost wheels.
I was referring to the Compomotive wheels and other higher end monoblock and multi-piece wheels. If you do end up going with a high end wheel, most companies can build you whatever you want.

I had a set of the Compomotive MO 6-spokes in 18x8 and they had a decent 1" lip even with a 40mm offset.

I already spoke with Compomotive, who basically said they couldn't make the 8" MO6 with the 9" face. In any case, I'm almost dead set on the TDRs. Maybe I'll get the 9s and have you shorten them. LOL

Originally Posted by REVSWIN

stage3,

I was agreeing with him that a 18x8 10mm et wheels on a RS bodied ZX3 would have the same outer track width as a real RS.

Not sure what you are asking.

Et16 is needed for an 18x8 on US hubs.

[REVSWIN]

I thought it was determined earlier this year that the RS set-up is 1.25" wider per side. That equals 32mm, so 18x8 42mm + 32mm = 10mm. Where am I missing something?

[CaysE]

I guess that's part of some of the confusion... normally track width is measured to the center of the wheel, but some of the RSOC guys in the UK seem to think the +65mm spec includes the extra width of the wheels, so actual track width might be smaller.

I don't know for sure, but I thought that was correct.

[Spatakula]

Originally Posted by stage3

Thats odd I have the same thing on the front 8.5 et30 with a 205/40/17 and I had to roll the fenders with about 3/4" to go on the coilover. If I slammed it all the way, it would surely rub without an agressive fender roll.

With the LCR plates close to bieng maxed out, the front wheel has a slight poke from the fender.





I wish I had better pics to show you. I will gladly pull a wheel off and take pics of everything underneath. The only rubbing is from an old set of wheels/tires I had on my car (17x7 et40 215/45/17 on KW V1's)

-spatakula

[Davor]

Cayse, best thing you can do is finish your exterior and use your current wheels. After you fiddle with your coilovers, find a way to take some measurements where current wheels reside. Since you know current wheels dimensions [diameter, width and offset], apply empty space measurements to find what dimension you should go after. If it was me, I would do all this with fender removed so you can get clear view on all potential rubbing issues.

[CaysE]

That's probably best, Davor... I just know I'm going to end up in a holding pattern for a few weeks though as the wheels get made at Team Dynamics.

[o2_designs]

I fit my 9 inch rears on the front and they fit...I never actually drove with them tho...

[CaysE]

What offset, drop, diameter, tire size, got pics, etc?

[o2_designs]

They were the Schmidts I ran...the rears are 16x9. Just to see what they look like, I put them on the front. This was on my hatch with the coils wound all the way down...but like I said, I never actually drove with them on the front.

[CaysE]

Bump... anyone have an 18x9 setup in the rear that they'd be willing to try mounting up front for testing?

[WRCwannabe]

Originally Posted by REVSWIN

I thought it was determined earlier this year that the RS set-up is 1.25" wider per side. That equals 32mm, so 18x8 42mm + 32mm = 10mm. Where am I missing something?

stock svt wheels are 49mm. and a inch less wide.

so you add an inch wider wheel on each side.
would make up 1 inch total (giong further out)

then you take it from a 49mm offset down. to a 16mm= 33mm
33mm =1.29" further out on each side.
2.6"+1 inch from the wider 8" wheel over the stock 7" (svt)

3.6"= 91mm

or am i mistaken?
i probably am wrong but thats how im seeing things.