[SR Performance]

Should i put some oil down the cylinder and turn it over a few times with the injectors turned off to help reseat the rings from the previous wash?

No. Just get the tune squared away. The best way to seat rings is with combustion and compression.

 

[2006GFX]

So I got a new tune. Car runs fine until it goes into closed loop. Starts to run rich and hunt RPP then stalls. Could it be that from all the previous pig rich running conditions I failed my primary O2 sensor?


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[Wobb]

It's possible. Did you put a new one in when you started this? Supposed to replace after 60K miles. Just make sure you get an OEM one.

 

[2006GFX]

I did start with a new one. This new O2 has seen a half a tank of pig rich conditions though


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[Wobb]

It shouldn't have blown it out that quick... my car always runs stupid rich and still doesn't go through them that fast. I guess it's worth a shot. Could have fouled your plugs to... Did you try new spark plugs?

 

[2006GFX]

Yup on a new set now. 3rd set in total.


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[2006GFX]

Should the primary O2 sensor be heated with the ignition on? Just wondering if maybe I have a connection problem at the plug? I know my wideband heats up but not my primary one.


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[puffingonj]

Yes they are powered should be 12v key on.
Usually you get a heater circuit code if it has a problem.

 

[2006GFX]

So Update. Car is running a lot better now with a different tune. AFRs are a lot better. I'm just on the beginning stages of tuning. My only issue is a hunting idle. I have lots of vacuum -18". Using a new Ford thottlebody, idle air control valve, along with new gaskets for those two parts. Runs great when I drive with a bit of a stuffer from 2000-2500 on light throttle. Goes away when I go a bit harder. What's causing this hunting issue!??? It's driving me nuts!


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[2006GFX]

So another update. We think we may have a solution to the idle hunting issue. It is caused by turbulence air flow hitting the MAF sensor. Also the reducer from 3" to 2.5" after the MAF sensor doesn't help for turbulence either. So I went to a local auto wrecker a picked up the factory air airflow straightener. I installed it and it seemed to help the idle a bit. Since it still had to go through a 90deg elbow. So not a complete solution yet. But while doing so Google searching I found this: http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=68172
Once I try this I will update.

 

[SR Performance]

This is a used FSW kit right? Turbulence through MAF sounds very odd considering there's over 100 FSW turbo customers with the same MAF setup with no problems at all. This includes myself for past 7 years. Are you sure the MAF isn't bad?

 

[2006GFX]

Yes this is a used FSW kit. MAF has also been changed out. Map sensor has not been changed. Can that cause idle fluctuations?

 

[puffingonj]

I have the fswerks stage 2 kit with a built 2.0 and intake .My idle fluctuates all the time I kept trying to get it resolved but nothing helps. Cold idle is fine but once it warms up it surges.

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[2006GFX]

That's what's happening to me as well. Once I install this screen I'll post results.


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[sutyak]

I had to use the OEM air straightener in my blow-through setup to help the idle. It's sandwiched between two 3" sections of tube right before the MAF. I actually forgot all about it until you posted that, or else I would have suggested it.

 

[2006GFX]

Here is how that honeycomb looks just before the MAF sensor. It definitely did help idle. Before it stall while hunting now it’s able to catch its self. I’m going to take the car for a couple hundred km cruise and see how the tune reacts once it has some history.
Now speaking of cruising. I’m having an issue with my cruise control cable. It seems like it has just a slight bit of tension on it causing the throttle body to open slightly. Has anyone had to grind down the collar the cable attaches to? I’m talking about the black bracket by the throttle body

 

[2006GFX]

So I did a couple of things. Modified my throttle body cable holder. Now cruise control works perfect. In the other photo. I made a heat defector to lower under hood temps. Made a big deference. Also installed a turbo blanket and wrapped the down pipe.


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[2006GFX]

So I've got 550km on the car. Noticed oil coming from the wheep hole. Thought it was rear main so pulled transmission turns out I didn't to good of a job sealing the oil pan on the transmission side. But my biggest concern was the clutch I noticed metal on metal wear on the clutch sprocket rubbing against the slave cylinder. Anyone else have this issue with Clutch Masters?

Clutch wear

Oil pan leak

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[2006GFX]

So an update. I got the clutch back together with no rubbing. It turns out I was sent a clutch for a Mazda 3. So I was down graded to a FX250. Which kind of sucks but I won't hit its torque rating of 330ft-lb anyway. I also got the idle fixed. My rough idle was caused my a worn harmonic dampener. At first I though I had tappet noise but after adjusting them I still had the noise so I started searching and found the dampener was ever so slightly touching the timing cover (so out of balance). This clauses the rough idle since the tangs on the dampener we're moving erratically. While also cussing the crank position sensor not to be in line with a tang.
Here's a video of it idling. After I fix a stripped tread on the Cosworth intake cover with a Helicoil, since I have a high pressure boost leak I'll be ready for WOT 3rd gear pull.

https://vimeo.com/142832289


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[2006GFX]

Here's one of under the hood.
The clicking sound is valves snapping against the head since they're 61# springs with stock cams. It's all it can be since timing is perfect and tappets are all within factory spec.
https://vimeo.com/142832694


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