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Discussion Starter #21
Got to race the car last weekend and did ok, #4 out of 23 in novice class. Thanks for the info guys.

I did get some nasty tire rub in hard right corners. I'm using stock size tires on Kazera wheels with +45 offset. I couldn't believe that extra 4mm was enough to create a clearance problem. I'm hoping that the new struts will be enough to correct it, otherwise I will need to cough up a lot more cash for some new wheels.
 

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You answer is not going to be in wheel offset (though that in combination with width is the cause of your issue), the smart solution will be rolling the fenders and setting up a proper suspension.

The low-cost approach I like most is Koni Struts with H&R Race springs. That'll stiffen the car up enough to be rid of the rubbing.
 

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^Good choice. And if you are looking for them used, you can expand your field of acceptable choices by including KYB AGX dampers and Eibach Pro springs. The dampers are adjustable and the springs are stiff enough to also eliminate the rubbing. However, roll you fenders as suggested, anyway.

(And brake later, so that you are still on the brakes when you begin to turn... practice this in an empty parking lot first... it's called trail-braking and it will bring the rear end around if you are carrying enough speed into the turn.)
 

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Discussion Starter #25
You answer is not going to be in wheel offset (though that in combination with width is the cause of your issue), the smart solution will be rolling the fenders and setting up a proper suspension.

The low-cost approach I like most is Koni Struts with H&R Race springs. That'll stiffen the car up enough to be rid of the rubbing.
The wheel offset is the only thing that changed so that is the cause of the rub. I already rolled the fender at the track so I could keep racing, and did not fully solve it. Hopefully the new struts and springs do, unfortunately I can not change to stiffer springs in street class. If that doesn't work, I think I'm stuck with buying different wheels or buying 205 tires.
 

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... I think I'm stuck with ...
...braking hardish into, and a short way through, the entry until you feel it start to slip in back.

The reason is that it corrects the car's neutral tendencies toward understeer. Without that strategy you have to turn the wheel too-hard in order to compensate for understeer, and that's a good way to rub (if the set-up is capable of rubbing). Besides springs that hold the car steadier, a driving technique that reduces understeer is another way to help it not-rub. Another is using the recommended maximum toe-out up-front, that will also help quite a bit, especially if you include minimum toe at rear... just be ready to pay more attention to wheel movements on the street, the car will dart more quickly and feel lighter.
 

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DBL post... This website has become a badly run mess...
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I do try to trail brake, and the car seems to rotate better than most fwd cars. But I don't think I can count on my driving skills to be that consistent, especially on one of our tracks that is very rough.

Great advice all the same. My car is already kind of darty on the highway, so I was guessing that the toe is ok. I'm not sure how much the new struts will change that. I have no idea about rear toe, is that something that can be adjusted at home?
 

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No, not properly.

Take it to a shop and tell the tech that you want the minimum rear toe that he's allowed to give you. You'll still have some, and that's a good thing for being able to drive on the street... also your rear tires will benefit from not cupping so fast.
 

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No, not properly.

Take it to a shop and tell the tech that you want the minimum rear toe that he's allowed to give you. You'll still have some, and that's a good thing for being able to drive on the street... also your rear tires will benefit from not cupping so fast.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I do try to trail brake, and the car seems to rotate better than most fwd cars. But I don't think I can count on my driving skills to be that consistent, especially on one of our tracks that is very rough.

Great advice all the same. My car is already kind of darty on the highway, so I was guessing that the toe is ok. I'm not sure how much the new struts will change that. I have no idea about rear toe, is that something that can be adjusted at home?
 

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Pull your fenders a bit, your wheel specs should not be an issue at all. I promise.

I've got wheels that poke a full two inches farther than yours do and I cannot get the tires to rub under any conditions. There's no need to spend $600 on a problem with a free solution: Just a bit more fender work.
 

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Pull your fenders a bit, your wheel specs should not be an issue at all. I promise.

I've got wheels that poke a full two inches farther than yours do and I cannot get the tires to rub under any conditions. There's no need to spend $600 on a problem with a free solution: Just a bit more fender work.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Pull your fenders a bit, your wheel specs should not be an issue at all. I promise.

I've got wheels that poke a full two inches farther than yours do and I cannot get the tires to rub under any conditions. There's no need to spend $600 on a problem with a free solution: Just a bit more fender work.
Haha I wish. I am new to autocross but not new to cars. With wheels that stuck out another two inches, I could make it rub just by turning the wheel without even driving. There is no way your wheels would come close to clearing on my car unless they are much smaller than stock. I could maybe pull the fenders a tiny amount, but I'd be nervous about screwing them up and I'm not sure if that is allowed anyway.
 

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Haha I wish. I am new to autocross but not new to cars. With wheels that stuck out another two inches, I could make it rub just by turning the wheel without even driving. There is no way your wheels would come close to clearing on my car unless they are much smaller than stock. I could maybe pull the fenders a tiny amount, but I'd be nervous about screwing them up and I'm not sure if that is allowed anyway.
Fender work is allowed as long as the stock metal is used, which you will be doing. My wheels are 16x7, so they're a stock diameter. With patience fender work is extremely easy, especially with a rolling tool.
 

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Haha I wish. I am new to autocross but not new to cars. With wheels that stuck out another two inches, I could make it rub just by turning the wheel without even driving. There is no way your wheels would come close to clearing on my car unless they are much smaller than stock. I could maybe pull the fenders a tiny amount, but I'd be nervous about screwing them up and I'm not sure if that is allowed anyway.
Fender work is allowed as long as the stock metal is used, which you will be doing. My wheels are 16x7, so they're a stock diameter. With patience fender work is extremely easy, especially with a rolling tool.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Fender work is allowed as long as the stock metal is used, which you will be doing. My wheels are 16x7, so they're a stock diameter. With patience fender work is extremely easy, especially with a rolling tool.
Mine are 17x7, which is stock for the SVT. Can a rolling tool be used to actually move the whole fender out? I thought it would just roll the lip.
 
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