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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
People have been asking around for someone to make solid steering rack bushings, so I figured I would take on the task Well, I went the yard, and beat a rack to death till I got the part I needed aaaaaaand now we have bushings...

They will increase the steering response of your rack, but will take away a little of the sissy proofing on your car. You will feel a little more vibration through the wheel, but gain the extra control.

The pictures show my bushings vs the stock rubber one, and also how they fit in the rack

For current pricing, check out my little website:

Alexthemachinist.com

Please like and follow my Facebook page as well:
Facebook.com/alexthemachinist




 

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Discussion Starter #2
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hey guys, anyone interested in bushings? I have sets ready to ship.
 

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I am interested... Im just unsure of the process to replace them. Able to without any removal of parts from underneath the car?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I am interested... Im just unsure of the process to replace them. Able to without any removal of parts from underneath the car?
It would probably be pretty tricky with it in the car. It's best with the rack out.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Bump. I'm still making these if anyone is interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I am interested but would like to see a writeup of how to install
Do you know how to pull the rack? I usually drop the k member, and if you do it this way, you can have it done in a hour if you are determined. Here are the steps.

1. Remove the two pinch bolts on the lower ball joints, and pop loose the control arms.

2. Detach the tie rid ends at the knuckles.

3. Remove the cross bolt for the rear trans/motor mount.

4. Detach the high and low pressure lines from the rack, and have a drain pan for the fluid. (Don't forget the tiny little screw holding the plastic retainer for the high pressure side)

5. Unbolt the k-frame and lower it slowly.

6. Unbolt the rack from the k-frame.

REMOVING THE BUSHINGS

Easy Way - Get a propane torch, or oxy-acetylene torch, and heat up the inner sleeves till the rubber melts enough to slide them out. Only down side is this destroys the bushings.

Safe Way - Use a vise, vise, or press to push the bushings out and keep them in case you want to re-use them later.

Put my bushings in, and reverse the process. I've done this in an hour before.

How bout that for a write-up?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Definitely above my technical skill, haha. What are the full benefits and drawbacks to doing this? Being in Germany has its disadvantages at times
Pros better steering feedback, accuracy, and response. Only con is that you will feel more vibration through the steering wheel.

Find some others in Germany that want some!
 

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To remove my bushings with the rack uninstalled i just put a bolt through the bushing and hit it with a hammer. Then once it was half way through used a socket and hammer for the rest. Alot easier than i thought.
 

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What is the difference between the delrin and the aluminum? As in, is one better than the other? If so why?

Do you make the shims for the rear shocks by chance?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #20
What is the difference between the delrin and the aluminum? As in, is one better than the other? If so why?

Do you make the shims for the rear shocks by chance?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
I can make the shims. I'll need to buy bar stock though.

The difference with the bushings is that the aluminum will be the most rigid, but are like solid motor mounts, and transfer all the vibration. The Delrin are much stiffer than stock but still retain some dampening characteristics, and don't transfer as much vibration.
 
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