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Discussion Starter #401
I finally mounted my oil coolers, I was going to build an aluminum plate underneath the slam panel so I could situate them behind the front grill for air flow But I decided to place them in front of the wheel well for a couple of reasons.
-The were proving extremely difficult to fit under the slam panel and I really didn't want to cut away at any more factory parts.
-because of the larger RS bumper there was plenty of room in the new location.
-Cooling shouldn't be an issue as I can introduce air from the fog light location or the pan with naca ducts and evacuation should be perfect with the gills in the side of the bumper being functional.
Oil:

Power Steering:


I am planning on using light weight flex hose on all of the 10 AN sized hose as it will help me make some of the curves I need to. For those of you who have never seen this stuff it is pretty awesome, its about three times more flexible but weighs less than half of normal AN hose. The downside is its about $10 a foot and they recommend special fittings but I am reading more and more that the standard aluminum fittings will work. Some of the brands that carry this are Earls Pro-Lite, Aeromotive Star-lite, and Aramid Braided Super-Flex.
Here is a picture of what it looks like:


I also finally re-wired my radiator fans after I tore into the USA harness to figure out where everything was going. The socket for the RS fans has one plug with six wires (two blue, two black, two green) where the USA fans have two plugs (one with black and green/blue the other a single green/white)
USA Plug:
Green/Blue - Power and one side of the resistor
Black - Ground
Green White - Other side of resistor

Here is how I wired it:
Green/Blue - Two blue wires and one of resistor wires
Black - Two black grounds
Green/white - Other side of resistor that was unused

Finished Picture:
 

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Looks fantastic Tyler!!!
Get this girl finished already so we can see her in all her glory!!!
 

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An inspiration not just for a Focus, but for craftsmanship in general. Start up will be an awesome day!
 

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Nice!
 

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Discussion Starter #407
Anyone know where the throttle wire is/color? I would assume everything else I am looking for attaches to the main gauges so they shouldn't be too hard to find.

 

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How do you mean? That looks like a description of the wires in the PCM.
 

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Discussion Starter #409
I just talked to some people about it, sounds like I need to connect where the harness meets the ecu because otherwise the signal isn't clear enough. One guy even told me that the rpm signal will not be clean enough unless you place a separate msd tach signal GMR on it. (supposedly the apexi unit is very finicky when it comes to this) I would like this boost controller to work as good as possible so I will probably go through all the steps to make it work correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #410 (Edited)
Mounted up machined water pipe. I needed to raise it a bit to fit correctly but now it is in there secure and it still fits under the slam panel.





Measured and ordered all oil cooler lines last week which are now here along with the boost pipes that I will be cutting up and welding.

Turbo water cooler lines are going to be mounted to the spacer before the Tstat and the machined water pipe. I have done some research now on thermal siphoning (up to 20* for this to work) but this will still greatly depend on how this manifold was made as I cannot change the angle now.

Big update soon!
 

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Discussion Starter #416
I wish I had more time to work on this right now but I am working on it every chance I get.

Cold side Tubing is mocked up and welded. Welding is a little rough but we will be smoothing it out for a better finish. Also we were using a tig tip that was not ideal for our situation. It was working perfect on flat aluminum but was chunking up on the piping so we spoke with someone at airgas and I must have bought the wrong tungsten at some point.





Found a Place to mount the solenoid, glad I waited because I was going to mount it on the frame rail but it was getting very frustrating to make it work.



I needed to fab up some brackets to hold the carbon for the dash which holds two gauges and the on/off switch. It needed to be very strong because of the weight of the switch so I came up with something that can be screwed into the standard location to hold the dash together and then you are still able to bolt to the rivnuts on the bracket. I think the pictures will explain it better but it was very time consuming but I couldn't think of any other option.





I will try and get some more pictures up after the race weekend as I did a few other things.
 

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Discussion Starter #417
Turbo Piping for the most part is complete. It was my brothers first time tig welding aluminum pipe so we have a few welds to clean up but the fitment is great. I still don't care for the route of the piping on the hot side but there is absolutely no other way to do it unless I weld an elbow to the actual compressor which I may do if it becomes and issue. I will post some more picks when I have everything ready for the reinstall.





I made new lines for the turbo water feed because the nickle plated ones that were included did not have enough movement in the connections. I think because of the turbo heat they may have started to seize up?



Here you can kind of see where I ported into the RS Spacer.



I will post some more pics next week as we build the oil breather tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #419
Had to roll two beads in my turbo piping and I don't want to sound cheap but I didn't want to spend $300 on a tool right now to do this. That and I couldn't confirm that the one I want can do anything but one size so I took to the internet for options and came across an altered crimping pliers to do the job. I had to take my time but I think it turned out pretty good. Here is a picture of a bead and the tool I made up.



The piping is now all finished up so I will take another picture once it is installed.

Next up the oil breather tank. The template.



Cut out.



Partially welded.



It was at this point that I realized it is too tall for where I want to place it so the easiest way to shorten it was to change the filter element. I am now going to use a K&N racing carburetor assembly and mount it directly to the top face. Dimensions for this are 4.5" X 7" with a 2 " height. This should save enough room.
 
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