Super helpful thread. My timing belt stripped some teeth, and bent valves awhile back. I finally have the car back together, cranks but won't start. I read and re-read this thread before and after we did the timing. My brother held the cam and the VCT inner housing (with a strap wrench) While I torqued the intake cam bolt. We always held pressure CW (towards the bumper) on the VCT inner housing, and CCW (towards the windshield) on the cam. Final adjustment was made by rotating the cam CCW (towards the windshield) till we felt/heard the VCT hit PDS, and then torqued the bolt. Turned the engine trough by hand about eight times, and the cam bar slid in perfect, no resistance, every time. It took us about five tries to get it right on. Is there any way this no start is because the engine is out of time? I really thought we had it right.
Also, does anyone know a good way to check fuel pressure on the SVT, since there is no schrader valve on the fuel rail?
If the timing is good, as you described, then the no start issue is unrelated....unless you have a head full of bent valves still!
I'd just pull an injector and turn it over...if the fuel pump is good, fuel PSI should be fine (pretty sure the Focus doesn't use a PSI regulator).
Are you 100% certain you have the spark plug leads on the correct cylinders?
Timiming*belt*on and tensioned. Both cam sprockets loose.
Lock the crank at TDC.
Align both cams and lock them.*
Hold the Intake cam with a wrench in place, tighten the sprocket by hand to 30 Ft Lbs of torque. Remove cam locking tool, using the wrench on the intake cam, rotate it towards the windshield slowly and gently no more than 1/4 turn until it hits a DEAD STOP. All oil within the gear should come out. Dont move the cam! If you didnt feel a dead stop, repeat above step.
Now loosen the intake cam sprocket bolt and align the cam with the*exhaust*cam. Lock them and tighten sprockets. Intake to 80 and Exhaust to 55 Ft Lbs.
Now remove timing pin and plate (timing locking tools) and rotate engine by*hand 4*crank revolutions, cams will make 2 and check if cams are aligned. If not, redo the first step above. Thats it, no codes, no power loss, runs like new.
If after doing the timing the above way you get any P1381 or P1383 code, then you should invest in the VCTsolenoid*and*Cam Positioning Sensor, because i have no issues so far
Yeah, plugs are right, and its got spark. I decided I don't have/don't want to devote any more time to working on it at this point, and took it to my mechanic. I just heard from him that fuel psi is good, but static compression test only shows 90 PSI across all cylinders, so it sounds like the timing somehow got off. The only thing I can think of, is that to torque the crank bolt, I had a friend in the car hold the brakes with the car in 6th gear, while I used the torque wrench. About halfway through, it made a really weird metal/metal sound, but then didn't do it again. All I can think of is that somehow that was a cam gear slipping or something else moving out of position.
Car is running, and the timing was fine, or at least, it started. Time will tell if it decides to throw any codes. Turns out the problem was with the aftermarket crank pulley for the serpentine belt that I put on. Mechanic called back after I gave the go ahead to pull the covers and check timing, and asked if I had put the aftermarket pulley on, that it was really tight, rubbing on the cover, and making the engine hard to turn over. So I brought the old stock crank pulley up to him, and he put it on while I was standing there. I had thought the car was cranking slower than it should, so on a hunch I just said, let's just put the old pulley on, valve cover, plugs, and crank it. Voila, fired up on the second try. My theory is that the extra drag from the aftermarket pulley was causing the engine to crank just slow enough to either keep it from firing and/or not allowing it to build sufficient oil pressure in either the VCT gear and/or in the engine itself, causing the ECM to cut spark after a few crank rotations. Any other theories? We literally only changed the accessory drive pulley on the crank, and it started.
Hey guys im back working on my focus, got side tracked when the snow hit last year. Still getting 1381's or 1383's after timing the motor. I time the motor and everything lines up the way it should but i still get codes. I saw steve posted the ford procedure on the timing belt, which is what ive been following, however it says nothing about bleeding the gear whatsoever as other people have said needs to be done. At this point im confused and not sure what exactly to believe. Im not sure what im missing here. Did anyone ever make a video of this procedure?? Any help as always is appreacated. Thx guys
The only way you will get the code back if you've 'properly' set the timing with the bar is re-introducing slop to the gear while you're tightening it.
from cos's process: (again, this is IF you have already timed the car and are getting the code, not if you are putting a fresh timing assembly in it, though you CAN start at step 7 if you are timing a new timing assembly)
1) remove valve cover/timing cover
2) rotate motor to TDC, insert crank pin, rest crank against TDC
3) remove VCT cap
4) drain oil from gear by rotating the cam clockwise and counter clockwise to its stops (I do this 4-5 times to ensure all pressure is relieved from gear)
5) turn the cam fully towards the windshield
6) loosen the inside cam bolt to get the cam to spin freely of the VCT gear - note: make sure the crank is still resting against TDC - you probably want someone to hold the cam in place while you do this.
7) THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP - Insert the timing bar alignment tool. the exhaust side should already be in time and slide in without effort. adjust the intake cam so that the bar also slides in with ease.
8) You WILL need a second person helping you here. With the bar STILL in, have someone carefully hold the cam in place. They should be using force to hold the cam towards the windshield while you are tightening it. (Your helper is moving the cam in the opposite direction that you are tightening the gear. This is to prevent the cam from moving AT ALL.) Use a slow and gradual force to tighten the cam to the VCT gear (Your helper will do the same, an opposite, gradual force that matches your tightening force). IF you do this correctly, the timing bar will slide out with ease. If it is binding on the cam bar, loosen the VCT and start over. It WILL throw the code again if it is not perfect. It is impossible to break the cam ends if your helper is careful and does not allow the cam to move.
It is vital that the camshaft DOES NOT MOVE while tightening the VCT gear. IMO, this is where the codes come back!
Question. I got mine changed at a dealership. 3 weeks later it threw the over retarded code, I took it back. Got the run around after they cleared the codes and swore it's not throwing a code. Now the car began smoking after it came back on. Could the smoking and code be related?
OK so I spent the weekend doing the timing belt, pulleys and water pump. A few mishaps along the way. My timing bar does not easily slide into the cams. The intake cam especially difficult. I would have to tap it into place and a small fragment of the casting broke off. The exhaust side would slide in fine. In the end I could tap it in though the position was repeatable after turning the engine over. Hard to keep the crank against the pin. Ended up using a bugee cord on my wrench. Forgot to replace the vct plug.... sprayed oil everywhere. I needed to drop the engine on that side to pull the water pump out. Hard to hold the cams from rotating while tightening the gears. What size wrench did you guys use? Really would have helped to have another set of hands for this project. And its not done yet. Still need to replace the plug and clean the mess. Then pray for no codes