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I'm bringing Zetec back...
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Has this been discussed before? Now that I have set my 17x8 38mm et wheels on the ground, I noticed the passenger side front wheel sticks out about 2mm more than the driver side front wheel. I would assume this has something to do with the transmission. Another MI Jetter has noticed this with her low offset wheels as well.

I am the original owner of my car, it has never been in an accident fyi.

If this is the case, that one side does stick out further, what would be the remedy? Shave the hub of the wheel(That would be my last resort)? Shave the axle hub before installing the wheel bolts?
 

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Resident Wheel-Whore
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2mm spacer on the other side?

I've noticed some wierd stuff with our susp as well. This could just be the crap job the asshat did on my alignment, but one side has more camber then the other. One side sits higher in the rear...Just wierd things...But don't shim off the wheel, then that wheel is stuck on that side, just rock a small spacer to even them out if it bothers you..

Also, what is the camber specs on both sides? Maybe one side has a degree of camber more then the other?
 

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I'm bringing Zetec back...
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Discussion Starter #3
2mm spacer on the other side?

I've noticed some wierd stuff with our susp as well. This could just be the crap job the asshat did on my alignment, but one side has more camber then the other. One side sits higher in the rear...Just wierd things...But don't shim off the wheel, then that wheel is stuck on that side, just rock a small spacer to even them out if it bothers you..

Also, what is the camber specs on both sides? Maybe one side has a degree of camber more then the other?
No camber yet... The car does not run yet. I have a Rally kit ordered with Tousley as of 10 days ago, waiting for it to get here.

2mm spacer would be the answer, but with my 17x8's I need the passenger side wheel to come in 2mm for less chance of rubbing/slamming on the fender. The other three will be fine with some camber, but the passenger sticks out more for sure, and this is not the first car I have seen with the same problem.

This is all I have for now as for pics. But the front pass. sticks out more than the other three wheels.



You can kinda see the rear wheel should be fine with some camber.

 

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Resident Wheel-Whore
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Do Work...
 

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I just think it's just the way the cars are built. I had a odd issue with the back of my SVT in the past few weeks. Took the car in for new wheel bearings, they used OEM Ford parts, after I got the car back I had some rubbing issues with the rear. Took it back to the shop and they checked it out and didn't notice anything wrong with the install and the brake rotor is aligned properly with the brake caliper. So I just had the fenders rolled to get the problem solved and so I could run wider tires in the future.
 

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Ronal Thief!
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One side sits higher in the rear..
Passenger side, correct? I believe it was Omni or Z63R that said the passenger rear is the lightest corner so it sits higher than the rest. I removed the adjustment perch on my H&R coilovers on that corner and it solved the problem.

Gerald, I don't have a problem with mine sticking out more on either side. Mine might not be noticeable due to the 205/45s and the camber I have but I can take a look at it later and see if I have the same problem as you.
 

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Mine sticks out farther on the drivers side than pass on my 35 et wheels. Also my drivers side sits higher than teh passenger so weird.

Gerald let me know if u decide to do the spacer. I will pay you if u can help me with mine. It does bother me. I was just looking at it today.
 

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Camber isn't always even ... even when you don't adjust it. I've never had an alignment where the camber was even on both sides, when using adjustable(both adjusted to the same) or non-adjustable top plates. Might just need some camber plates and some fine tuning.
 

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It could be that your front subframe is misaligned. There are inserts that are supposed to be used when you put the subframe in place. It could also just be manufacturing tolerance, the way the strut towers are welded it does not look very precise. When you dont have plates the camber is dictated by the strut so I would point to either the strut tower or position of the knuckle (which can be changed by a moved subframe or bent LCA).

No camber yet... The car does not run yet. I have a Rally kit ordered with Tousley as of 10 days ago, waiting for it to get here.
When you get your kit could you please do me a favor and reply in my thread? thanks :)

http://forums.focaljet.com/tire-rack-tires-wheels-brakes-forum/609787-question-those-you-have-done-rally-brake-kit.html

Nice tires btw :thumbup:
 

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2mm is so little couldnt you just fix that by adjusting the front sheet metal gaps (Fenders/hood)? You have less gap at the front of the hood on that side in the picture.
 

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I'm bringing Zetec back...
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Discussion Starter #11
2mm is so little couldnt you just fix that by adjusting the front sheet metal gaps (Fenders/hood)? You have less gap at the front of the hood on that side in the picture.
I have thought about that. That is a good suggestion, but at the same time I would love to avoid the fuss of it.

I have decided to go with 205/45-17's just to be safe for now. Down the road maybe I will run 235/40-17's again when I get my car running and learn more about my suspension set-up.

It is just weird that at least two of us in MI have this problem. maybe it is as simple as a good alignment, but I will not know for some time.
 

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On mine it's the passenger front side and drivers rear. I made the rear a little better by putting a camber bolt on one side. I then noticed my sons' Accord passenger front sticks out a little more than the rest.
 

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As has been mentioned, the way to fix this problem is a bit time consuming. The front cross member is never exactly in the middle. It would need to be moved towards the correct side (but 1mm is an awefully small adjustment). Then a good alignment (and some camber plates).
 

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The best part about me is that I think I am better
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there are 3 factors to this that i have noticed over the years.

1. the focus has HUGE range of manufacturing tolerances when it comes to body panel fitment and clearences. i have seen 2 new cars right off the dealer lot have as much as a 15mm difference in rear fender clearance from one car to the other and as much as 7mm from side to side.

2. if the subframes have ever been removed from the car or loosened at any time... sway bar install on the front? and then not had them straightened while getting the alignment done. this is usually pretty obvious if you had a good alignment before but the tech was bitching about how "out-of-wack" everything was or there was a BIG adjustment needed to get back to where you were.

3. panel shape is the least common but one i have seen before. sometimes you'll get one fender that gets squished almost when it was installed and bows out more than the other side. usually you wont notice this unless you are rolling fenders and where one side had complete contact and even pressure on the roller this side seems almost like the roller goes limp on the panel in certain spots.

there's a 4th one i guess but isn't common unless we're talking a early car with very hgh mileage... bushings are so worn out that how the car sits actually causes a gap on one side.
 

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Has this been discussed before? Now that I have set my 17x8 38mm et wheels on the ground, I noticed the passenger side front wheel sticks out about 2mm more than the driver side front wheel. I would assume this has something to do with the transmission. Another MI Jetter has noticed this with her low offset wheels as well.

I am the original owner of my car, it has never been in an accident fyi.

If this is the case, that one side does stick out further, what would be the remedy? Shave the hub of the wheel(That would be my last resort)? Shave the axle hub before installing the wheel bolts?
On mine it's the drivers side that sticks out. today we did RS knuckles, RS Brembo brakes, RS struts, RS springs and RS CV joints axels, with 1/8" spacers so the calipers clear the wheels (just) I personally have not seen it yet but the shop reports it came out great, I'm curious to see if the drivers side wheel still sticks out.
 

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I'm bringing Zetec back...
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Discussion Starter #16
As has been mentioned, the way to fix this problem is a bit time consuming. The front cross member is never exactly in the middle. It would need to be moved towards the correct side (but 1mm is an awefully small adjustment). Then a good alignment (and some camber plates).
Wow, that would be a PITA... But if it got the results I would for sure put some elbow grease into it.
 
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