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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently had to repair 4 of 5 studs on my trim strip because I could not find a used one that didn't also have broken studs....

ignore the shaved ford emblem stuff, as I did that at the same time as repairing the studs.



in that pic, you can see I've also finished it in some plastic filler (meant for bumper gouge repairs). You can also see some pink dots....that's because I broke 4 of 5 mounting studs removing the grab strip....here's how to repair those if that happened to you as well:

drill out the remaining stud from the plastic legs the broke off of. Then take some long 10mm bolts with three nuts on them....put one on the bolt, then put it through the hole and put two more on the other side of the leg (between the plastic leg and rear side of the strip itself). adjust the nuts in a way that some of the bolt is on either side of the plastic leg, and jam the third nut against the nut inside the leg. Then drill a couple 3/16" holes from the top sides of the strip and counter sink them. Then back-fill the leg area with epoxy putty/stick like you did in the badge recess. make sure the putty pushes through the holes and crowns over the counter-sinks so they anchor. This will make you a nice new stud that isn't going ANYWHERE. once the epoxy is dry, cut the head of the bolt off and remove the top nut, which now is your mounting nut when the strip is back on the car.







Sand the strip down smooth, if you started with a textured strip like I did, you'll have to hit it with 180 to start, then 220, then 320. if yours was painted already, just 320 will do.

Then filler prime



now you can scuff in 400 and 600 wet



and paint!



once dry, put the car back together and enjoy your newly repaired grab strip.

(but birds will probably poop on it)



Pro Tip: use never-seize on your new studs so this doesn't happen again, and use a lock-washer with the nut when installing so the nuts don't vibrate loose from using never-seize
 

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First I heard of this problem..... what you do bro open your hatch like the freaking hulk???......maybe you should break your wrist like I did and that will teach you some finesse when opening the hatch.. lol


and you need Euro plates to go with that RS of yours
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
First I heard of this problem..... what you do bro open your hatch like the freaking hulk???......maybe you should break your wrist like I did and that will teach you some finesse when opening the hatch.. lol


and you need Euro plates to go with that RS of yours
the studs break when removing the trim peice, because the nuts seize to the studs(which are just bonded into plastic tabs) and you end up not being able to re-install the trim.

people remove the trim for a few reasons and then are stuck with a broken part and no fairly-priced replacement.

-repair/paint rust spots that commonly occur around the corners of the strip
-paint a textured strip body color
-shave ford emblem
 

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First I heard of this problem..... what you do bro open your hatch like the freaking hulk???......maybe you should break your wrist like I did and that will teach you some finesse when opening the hatch.. lol


and you need Euro plates to go with that RS of yours
Welcome to the rust belt.

Every hatch strip I've removed at least one stud has snapped, and that's if I'm lucky. This with a 1/4 ratchet and using PB on the nuts.

Nice write-up, thanks.
 

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Since Facebook led me to this, the studs snap because they're brass and super soft, also means they're really easy to drill out and remove.

I used a similar process as the OP but installed the bolts from the inside of the trim piece and filled around them with epoxy so I didn't have to cut the heads off as they were embedded in the epoxy. I was also dealing with a factory painted hatch strip and didn't want to damage the paint.

Only issue I ran into was that once the epoxy set up one of the studs I made wasn't angled quite right so the left side of the strip is a little lower than it should be but I think I'm the only person that ever notices it.

-Steve
 
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