[Badvnm85]

Aloha all. I am aware of my o2 sensors but I just did head gasket and timing now I'm getting these.

Any ideas? All wiring and connectors are good. Not sure where to go from here. Thanks

 

[808svtf2]

Solenoid code could be related depending on the requirements needed to set that code. But it does include "circuit" in the description so I would recheck and clean your connections at the solenoid. If it was working fine before the timing belt it should still be fine now. unless you decided to throw the solenoid on the ground to damage it internally or something. Check the wires for opens thoroughly, if you had to move the wire to the side you could have broke the wire internally. And keep in mind that the code for the cam advance could have been flagged after the code for the solenoid. Which would mean that the cam control is going off on its own and the car is flagging the advance as out of spec. If not, you probably need to re do the timing and bottom out the vct to its rest position (retarded) to force out any oil that's left in the phaser otherwise you set base timing with extra advance from the get go and any duty cycle from the solenoid will equate to too much advance than expected.
btw. seen that aloha in there. you from HI too?

 

[Badvnm85]

Sadly no, pale white boy from the Midwest 🤣

I do feel as if I didn't get the cam at absolute dead stop as I didn't use a new timing belt. With that said, I'm ordering a new kit and going to give her another crack to see if that helps, along with your advice on the wiring inspection.

 

[808svtf2]

haha. o well. Anyways I would check the solenoid stuff first to save from having to open it up for timing again unless really necessary. You could always do a quick check of the timing with the pin and bar if you turn the intake to deadstop and it doesn't line up with the bar, you know its off. Also you may want to double check your timing pin length. I was using a kit that was a hair shorter then the recommended length (63.5mm I belive) only figured it out after degreeing my cams and getting a true reading for tdc of the piston. A millimeter or so will throw the crank off by a few degrees so that'll add to your problems as well.